Notes from 38000 feet.

Trying to occupy myself on the fourteen hour leg from Singapore back home I wrote a few short notes about our trip to Singapore, New Zealand and Australia. The list is below and I haven’t added anything since I got back so it really is a snapshot with little editing. If I were to compile it now it might be a little different but probably not much.  The list is in no particular order and lots of research went in to 1, 8 and 12.

  1. New Zealanders make the best coffee.
  2. Singapore is an excellent stopover en route to New Zealand, there is so much to see and do.
  3. 23Kg is a more than generous luggage allowance and you don’t need to use it all and you have to lug it around with you.
  4. I thought I knew what rain was until I went to tropical Queensland.
  5. Botanic gardens don’t have to be dull and boring
  6. New Zealand is a wonderful country in which to drive a  car, the roads are so quiet.
  7. Koala Bears are bigger than I imagined and difficult to spot in the trees.
  8. Craft beer is a big thing in New Zealand and beers are very good.
  9. The breakfast on Singapore Airlines is excellent
  10. There is so much more to the Red Centre of Australia than Uluru.
  11. Spending part of the winter in the Southern Hemisphere is so much better than spending it in the cold and damp of the UK.
  12. Old vine Grenache from the Barossa Valley really is excellent
  13. There is hardly any litter in New Zealand.
  14. Almost everyone we met on our trip were positive, friendly and helpful
  15. There is so much still to see and do in Australia. We need to go back as soon as we can.

The Daintree Rainforest

The Daintree Rainforest in Northern Queensland is the oldest tropical rainforest in the world. It is home to many hundreds of species of animals and plants, some of which exist only here. As a result it is one of the most complex rainforest ecosystems in the world.

Just a two hour drive from Cairns, or one hour from Port Douglas, you pass field upon field of sugar cane before you arrive in a world that is far, far removed from the hustle and bustle of modern life. You really are stepping back in time, estimates put its age at 180 million years, compare that with the Amazonian Rainforest which is a mere 55 million years old. Its hot and humid but you kind of expect that in a tropical rainforest. Its green, deep, concentrated green, there an awful lot of photosynthesis going on here. The rainforest has a damp, earthy, musty smell there is a sweetness and perfume to it. Together there is an assault on the senses.

The age of the rainforest can be seen from some of the plants that grow here. The Idiot Fruit, or Idiospermum australiense to give it its scientific name,  is sometimes referred to as the green dinosaur because of its age. Rediscovered in the Daintree in only the 1970s this tree grows nowhere else in the world. Fossil evidence indicates that it has been around for 120 million years with its flowers little changed over that time. Its fruit, which is highly poisonous, is large and contains the single largest seed found anywhere in Australia. A true living fossil and a good example of the kind rare plant found here.

The Daintree River rises in the rainforest and flows for 140Km before reaching the Coral Sea. The river has become a tourist attraction with cruises (Daintree River Cruises) to see the plants and animals living there. The number one on the list to see is the saltwater crocodile, the most aggressive of all crocodile species.

At the time of our visit the river had been in flood following a tropical cyclone. This brings a lot of cold water into the river system and the crocodiles don’t really like cold water as they need to maintain their body temperature at around 30 degrees Celsius. As a consequence they spend more time basking on the banks among the mangroves where they’re incredibly well camouflaged and difficult to spot. This is where the guide comes in as they have so much experience, while they cannot guarantee you a spot they will do their very best.

The crocodile above is well hidden (centre) and blends with the muddy bank. it was completely unfazed by our presence as it warmed itself in the morning sun. It was the largest we saw at about 4 feet in length.

 

This crocodile is a juvenile about 3-4 years old and probably still close to its mother and under her protection. Here it is basking on a fallen branch and not very active.

The mangroves in the Daintree are diverse with over 30 species found in the area. Many are salt tolerant and can either filter the salt out or have special salt glands.

There are no bridges across the Daintree River. If you want to head north further into the rainforest and visit Cape Tribulation then you must use the Daintree ferry. It is a cable operated ferry and the crossing takes only 5 minutes but there is a toll to be paid which varies depending on the size of the vehicle but is currently $28 return for a car.

Cape Tribulation is the point where the tropical rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. The headland was named by James Cook when his ship The Endeavour ran aground on the Barrier Reef and needed to be repaired. The headland encloses a superb beach. the area has probably not changed very much since Cook and his crew were here in 1770.

 

Hemingways Port Douglas

Hemingways is a gastrobrew pub located on the Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina in Port Douglas, Northern Queensland. Sine its opening in the summer of 2016 it has successfully produced a range of beers with are un filtered, unpasteurised and free of any preservatives. The craft beer movement, while well established in New Zealand, is not so well represented in Australia and this is the first venture of its kind in tropical Queensland although plans are afoot to open a second brewhouse in Cairns in summer 2018.

As its very hot and humid in this part of Australia a nice cold beer is just what the doctor ordered.

A selection of the beers tasted in March 2018

Doug’s Courage IPA  5.6% IBU 41

A brew named in hour of the courage of Port Douglas to rebuild following the devastation caused by a cyclone in 1911.

Amber in appearance with a slight haze. There is a good head to the beer that persists. Full flavour, medium bitterness, citrus abounds. Full and round on the finish. Very nice indeed.

Pitchfork Betty Pale Ale 5.1% IBU 35

Light amber, clear with a good, persistent head to the beer. Full flavour with smokey black cardamon,  medium bitterness,mildly hoppy with a nice tropical fruit edge.

4 Mile White Lager 4.7% IBU 16

Full flavoured wheat beer with flavours of bubblegum, apple juice and a gentle tanginess. Low bitterness. Very drinkable, very nice.

Mrs Watson Small Ale 3.7% IBU 30

Light amber in appearance, clear with a light frothy head that persists. Low bitterness. Lemon citrus with a gentle touch of spice. Quite full. very drinkable.

All beers were well made, characterful and thoroughly enjoyable. Others beers are available including a pilsner and a dark lager but lack of time prevent tasting. They also do a very good food menu and I can certainly recommend the double cheeseburger!