short break | Postcards From Here and There

48 Hours in Lisbon

Lisbon is an ideal location for a weekend city break and is only a short flight from the UK. The airport is located only short distance from the city so transfers by metro or taxi are relatively quick and straightforward. There is a lot to see and do in the city so here are some suggestions for a couple of days in the city.

Take Tram 28

Running from Praca Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique Tram 28 has become a top tourist attraction. The forty or so minute journey delivers some of the best of Lisbon though you will need to be lucky to see it in comfort. It is so popular that it has become crowded for most of the day with many passengers standing making it difficult to see much at all at times. For the best chance get there early to increase your chance of getting a seat for what is one of the best shows in town.

Take a Walking Tour

I am a great fan of walking tours and always try to take one in as soon after arrival as possible. Sandemans offer a free three hour walking tour in either English or Spanish which gives an excellent introduction to the city and its history. tours start form 10am by the statue at Praica Luis de Camoes and finishes at Praca do Comercio. Although free it is always best to prebook a place via their website.

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Built by the Moors and dating from the mid eleventh century it has undergone significant renovations over the years to create the castle you see today but it is everything you would expect. Built on one of Lisbon’s hills it offers great views of the city and beyond. Open seven days aweek, there is a 10 Euro admission charge but once inside there is plenty to see and a number of free tours are available.

Walk the Streets of Alfama

The district of Alfama lies between the castle and the river and is one of the oldest parts of the city. Its steep, narrow, cobbled streets are flanked by small houses and shops. Once the poorest area of Lisbon it is now undergoing some development but this hasn’t as yet changed it too much. It is easy to get lost here as you wander around but that is part of the experience and don’t let that put you off, someone will always point you in the right direction. If you prefer there are walking tours of Alfama, well worth a small charge for the expert guiding you receive. There are great views of the city from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Sample Fado Music

Fado originated in Alfama in the early part of the nineteenth century and can now be enjoyed in many parts of the country. Fado is sad, melancholic and bittersweet but is also so much more than that. There are a number of restaurants and clubs that offer dinner complete with a Fado performance most evenings in Alfama. The Museu do Fado on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro is worth a visit if you want to delve into the genre further.

Praco do Comercio

A huge plaza which leads down to the river Tejo. Built following the earthquake of 1755 it is a grand space that is closely related to the history of the city and is a great place to sit at the base of the statue of Dom Jose and take a breather from sight seeing. It is also the meeting place for some of the walking tours of the city.

Arco de Rua Augusta

Also known as Arco da Vitoria it is a triumphal arch with great views of the Price do Comercio, the river and city. Whatsmore it doesn’t attract the queues often seen at the nearby Elevador de Santa Justa and the views are excellent. An elevator followed by a narrow stone staircase leads to the viewing platform on the roof. When we were there there were only two other visitors. If you want a view of the city without a wait this is for you.

Torre de Belem

Located at the mouth of the river Tejo and just a short bus/tram ride from the city centre the tower has guarded the approach to the city since 1515. It is an impressive sight and a popular tourist attraction. You can climb the tower but be prepared to wait as queues are often long.

Padrao des Descobrimentos

Overlooking the Tejo and just a short walk from the tower is the Padrao des Descobrimentos. Unveiled in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator it is a most amazing sculpture full of all the significant Portugese who played a role in the age of discovery.

Museu Coleccao Berardo

This is a wonderful museum of modern art with all the big players represented. Situated in Belem close to the other attractions it is an oasis of clam and tranquility. As visitors queue for the tower or jostle to get that perfect photo for instagram the museum is quiet by comparison. if you like modern art you’ll love this place.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Built in 1501 to celebrate the opening of a sea route to India by Vasco de Gama the monastery is a real jewel in Lisbon’s crown. It can get very busy at times so it may be best to visit as it opens at 10am. A visit to the Belem would not be complete without a visit here. There is a charge for entry to the cloister but it is free on the first Sunday of the month. Entrance to the church is free at all times.

Eat Custard Tarts

To be honest you can’t eat enough of these and they are available at Pastelarias all over the city. If you want to try the original then visit Casa Pasteis de Belem which is just a few short steps away from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. This is where they were first made in the early part of the nineteenth century and the recipe hasn’t changed since. They are best served warm with just the lightest sprinkling of icing sugar but eat them anyway you like, you won’t be disappointed. There is also a cafe here which can seat up to 400.

Travel on a Funicular Railway

Lisbon is built on seven hills and some of them are steep and punishing to climb. Lisbon has three funicular railways

Ascensor da Glória. This connects Praça dos Restauradores with the Bairro Alto district. You will pass some excellent street art are as you ascend/descend the hill.

Ascensor da Bica. This connects Rua de São Paulo and Largo do Calhariz and ascends one of Lisbon’s steepest hills. It’s popular as it offers some good photo opportunities.

Ascensor do Lavra. This is the oldest of the funiculars in the city. It can be the quietest of them so may well be for you if you don’t fancy a queue at busy times.

Eat and Drink in the Bairro Alto

If you walk the narrow, steep streets of the Bairro Alto during the day you could be forgiven for thinking that not much is going on in this district. Return in the evening and you will be amazed by the transformation. This is the place to be for restaurants, bars and clubs and every visitor should try the area at least once during their visit to the city. There are numerous restaurants here but we particularly enjoyed Primeiro de Maio and Bota Alta, both on Rua Atalaia, serving local, traditional dishes at very reasonable prices. Two excellent wines bars here are BA Wine Bar (107 Rua Da Rosa) and Garrafeira Alfaia (125 Rua do Diaro de Noticias). Both serve food and have really helpful staff if you are unsure which Portugese wines to try. They are small so you may need to reserve a table but both do walk ins.

15 Things to do in Kraków

The city of Kraków in southern Poland is an absolute gem and is well worth visiting for a short break or long weekend. I have just returned from a five day trip and could easily have spent more time there as there is so much to see and do. Kraków is Poland’s second largest city and attracts some 12 million visitors a year. Here are just some of the things yo can do in the city.

Walk the Old Town. I always like to take a guided tour when first arriving in a new city as it helps with orientation and shows you some of the places that you might want to explore/investigate further. The old town of Kraków is compact and so a walking tour is the best option. I chose Walkative which offer a number of different tours in the city, many of which are free, and are available in a number of languages.

Wawel Castle. Sat atop Wawel Hill it was home to the Polish monarchy for centuries. You can walk up the hill and enter the grounds for free but if you want to visit the royal and state apartments, cathedral and other important buildings you will have to purchase tickets all of which are purchased separately. If you are on a budget or simply short on time a visit to the grounds will give you an idea of the importance of the monument.

Cloth Hall. The Cloth Hall sits proudly in the middle of Rynek Glowny which is itself the largest medieval town square in Europe. The main building dates back to the late sixteenth century but the arcades were added on much later. The hall was once the centre of the clothing trade but today is full of souvenir shops.

Rynek Underground. This underground museum is below the main square and was opened in 2010. Telling the history of the city it is an interactive and engaging experience. Some of the artefacts found during excavation of the site are fascinating and were for me the highlight. Entry to the museum is by ticket which needs to be purchased from the shop on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall to the actual entry point to the museum. Tickets are 21 Zloty and for specific times. I went in the afternoon and my ticket was for entry half an hour later but this could be longer at weekends when it is much busier. Admission is free on Tuesdays but tickets do go very quickly.

St. Mary’s Basilica. Dating back to the thirteenth century the Basilica is unusual in that it has towers of differing heights. A small charge is payable to enter and an additional charge is made if you want to climb to the top of the high tower from where the views are splendid. It is worth being around the basilica on the hour to hear the trumpeter play a five note tune the last note of which finishes abruptly. The reasons behind this are a thing of legend. The tune is played four times, one from each side of the tower, every hour of the day.

Eat traditional Polish Food. There are many traditional restaurants in the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter. They offer wholesome traditional foods such as Pierogi dumplings, vegetable soups and various cuts of pork. I particularly enjoyed U Babci Maliny located in a courtyard at 17 Stawkowska. You must go through the building into the courtyard and then down to the basement. It is well worth the effort to find it.

Collegium Maius Courtyard. The oldest university building in Poland has the most perfect courtyard and you can enter for free. A popular spot on all tours of the Old Town but if you are lucky enough to be there between tours it is a remarkably calm and peaceful place to sit and reflect for a few minutes. You can also purchase tickets for a guided tour of the museum but for me the courtyard is the star attraction.

Visit Kazimierz and take a tour. Also known as the Jewish Quarter it was once a city in its own right before incorporation into Kraków. It is easily reached from the Old Town with a walk of about 15 minutes. The area is steeped in history and the best way to see it is with a local guide. I choose a tour with Walkative who run three tours a day starting from The Old Synagogue at 24 Szeroka Street. The tour lasts 2 hours and is free but you can make a donation to your guide if you feel the tour has been worth it.

Galicia Jewish Museum. A museum with a difference in that the main exhibition is based around photographs with written commentary that examine Jewish life in southern Poland. It uses space well and has a calmness about it which is most welcome. There is also an excellent bookshop.

Oskar Schindler’s Factory Tour. The story of Oskar Schindler is well known as a result of Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List. The factory manufacturing enamel pots and pans no longer exists so the tour is actually based in the factory’s administration building. It covers much more than the role Oskar Schindler played in the survival of 1100 Jews during the Holocaust and it should be a must on any visit to the city. It is located in Podgórze which is across the Vistula River from the Old Town and Kazimierz. I walked there from the Old Town in about 25 minutes. Get there early as it gets very busy.

Pharmacy Under the Eagle. A small museum located on Heroes of the Ghetto Square which tells the story of the role played by the pharmacy and its owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz in supporting Jews in the Ghetto between 1941 and 1943. The interior of the pharmacy has been recreated as it would have been when workers risked their lives to help those more unfortunate than themselves. There is a small charge, entry is free on Mondays but it does close at 2pm.

Heroes of the Ghetto Square (Plac Bohaterów Getta). This was part of the Jewish ghetto that was created in 1941 and housed 17000 people in exceptionally crowded conditions. The square was the place of executions and the point from which Jews were sent to concentration camps. The 33 empty chairs are a memorial to all those that were held here. When Jews were forced into the ghetto in 1941 they brought furniture and possessions with them. As living condition were overcrowded many pieces of furniture were left on the square hence why chairs were chosen as the memorial. Most chairs face the same direction but one faces in the direction of Auschwitz and one in the direction of Schindlers factory.

Ghetto Wall. Just a short walk from the square is a small section of all that remains of the wall which surrounded the ghetto, it was made in the shape of tombstones. It is located on Lwowska and there is a small plaque which explains its significance.

The final two suggestions are outside the city but can easily be reached by public transport or by taking an organised tour.

Wieliczka Salt Mine. The town of Wieliczka is about a 30 minute drive from the Old Town. Salt was mined here for centuries before operations ceased in 1996. It is now a tourist attraction and UNESCO World Heritage site. Guided tours of the mine take two hours and are conducted in several languages. Expect the unexpected as you see remarkable salt carvings, chapels of worship and huge caverns where weddings and private functions can be held.

Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum. The death camps of Auschwitz – Birkenau are about a 90 minute drive from Kraków. It is also possible to get a train with a very similar journey time. However you choose to get there you must start at Auschwitz I where guided tours of the site begin. For most of the year it is compulsory to join a tour and I would recommend this anyway as the guides are excellent and ensure you get the most out of your visit. Following the tour of Auschwitz I it is only a short walk/drive of a few kilometres to Auschwitz II Birkenau which is much bigger but few buildings there now remain. I joined a tour from Kraków to the camps and it was a seven hour round trip so be prepared to allow a full day for your visit.

Ingleton Waterfalls Trail

The Ingleton waterfalls walk is perhaps one of the most popular and beautiful walks in the Yorkshire Dales. It is a circular walk, measuring a little under 5 miles in length, and follows two river valleys, The Twiss and The Doe. These two rivers meet just after Ingleton but before they reach the village they descend in height and flow through some narrow tree lined, limestone gorges with some spectacular waterfalls.

You should allow between three and four hours to complete the walk if you want to take your time, enjoy the scenery, take lots of photographs and have a refreshment break at Beezley Farm, which is about two thirds of the way round. The route is on well made paths but there are a large number of steps to go both up and down so it is quite strenuous in places. The steps and path can become wet and slippy at times so it is always advisable to wear appropriate foot wear such as walking boots/shoes.

The start of the walk is well signposted as you drive into the small village of Ingleton. Much of the walk takes place on private land so you have to pay an entrance fee on arrival. The fee currently is £7 per adult and £3 per child under the age of sixteen. The fee also includes parking and there are enough spaces for a large number of cars but it does get busy, especially in the summer months and at weekends. The is a café and toilet facilities at the entrance..

The train begins at the far end of the car park and ascends gently through Swilla Glen. The trees here create shade and atmosphere. With the sounds of the River Twiss running below it is a peaceful and meditative walk towards the first of the falls.

Pecca Falls is a series of five waterfalls which together give a combined drop of 30 metres. A viewing platform gives an excellent view of the twin falls.

Heading further up river the gorge narrows to form a rocky, narrow drop which is the Hollybush Spout.

There is an opportunity for a refreshment stop before you head to the third and most impressive waterfall on the trail. A small cabin sells light refreshments but there are no toilet facilities here.

From here the valley begins to open out and the trees thin out. A short walk through open country brings you to Thornton Force. To many this is a favourite point on the trail and people tend to congregate here and watch the falls. Thornton Force has the largest single drop on the trail with water cascading 14 metres over a limestone cliff and into a wide plunge pool.

As you head further up stream the River Twiss becomes a gentle, slow moving river. The peace of the beginning of the trail has been restored.

A footbridge will take you across the river, steps will then take you up to a lane which heads to Twistleton Hall.

Passing the Hall on your right the trail takes you to Beezleys Farm where you will find a small café with plenty of outdoor seating. There are also toilets here. From the farm a signposted footpath will take you to the narrowing valley of the River Doe.

Beezley Falls is the first set of waterfalls on the River Doe.

Beezley Falls includes Triple Spout, three waterfalls for the price on one!

Next up as you head down the valley is Rival Falls, a pair of small waterfalls.

If you are looking for something a little more dramatic and impressive then the Baxenghyll Gorge will not disappoint. Its steep sided and narrow and contains a number of falls. There is a viewing platform which lets you stand some 60 feet above the fast flowing river.

The final set of waterfalls are in the section of the valley called Twistleton Glen and are called the Snow Falls. No where near as dramatic as those in the gorge nevertheless they are a fine end to what is a superb walk.

From here the gorge opens out, passing an old, disused quarry, as you approach Ingleton. Ingleton is only a small village but there are cafés, pubs and restaurants. It is only a short walk from the village back to the car park and of one of the best walks in the Yorkshire Dales.