McLaren Vale | Postcards From Here and There

Fleurieu Peninsula Top 5

The Fleurieu Peninsula is an hours drive south of Adelaide in South Australia. It is a delightful area to explore as it is largely unexploited by large scale commercial tourism and so is a quiet and tranquil area so close to a large city. The cooling influence of ocean on three sides results in a climate that avoids excessive heat in the summer while still being warm and pleasant. The area is renown for its wines, beaches and cuisine made with local produce. Often overlooked by tourists to South Australia it is well worth spending a couple of days here.

The McLaren Vale. The McLaren Vale is one of Australia’s oldest wine regions with vines first planted as long ago as 1838. The regions reputation as one of Australia’s best is centred around its red wines, most notably Shiraz but there are so many other wines to explore here including some superb old vine Grenache and a range of exciting whites. With over 65 cellar doors open to the public for tastings there is much to discover in the region. Many visitors head for the futuristic looking tasting room at d’Arenberg and the experience here is like no other in the region as it also includes the Alternative Realities Museum as well as an exhibition of fine art. There are however many other fantastic places to visit, personal favourites of mine include Coriole, Battle of Bosworth and Yangarra. To get the best out of the area pick up a map of the wine region from the tourist information centre situated at 796 Main Road at the northern end of the town of McLaren Vale. I have written separate articles about the region in general and visits to d’Arenberg and Yangarra.

Willunga. A short drive south fromMcLaren Vale is the town of Willunga. The distance may well be short but the two towns couldn’t be more different. Willunga is one of the oldest towns in South Australia and can date its origins back to the 1840s and it retains much of the old town feel where times moves at a gentle pace.The Main Street has a great selection of cafés, restaurants, bars and shops. It is a place to linger over that cup of coffee and just let the hustle and bustle of the day pass you by. If you are lucky enough to visit at the weekend then don’t miss the much heralded Willunga Farmers Market which is held in the town every Saturday morning, it offers some of the best produce that the region has to offer.Visitors in January (exact dates vary) may catch the colour and excitement of a stage of the Tour Down Under cycle race which tradtionally includes an ascent of Willunga which ascends as you head south out of the town.

Victor Harbor. The town of Victor Harbor on the south coast of the peninsula is about as busy as it gets, especially in the summer m months when it becomes the go to holiday destination of the region. The highlight for me was Granite Island which is linked t the town by a wood built pier. A horse drawn tram is a big attraction and will take you across in relative comfort but it is also a pleasant walk if you are on a budget. Once on the island a well defined path, complete with strategically placed sculptures, takes you on a circuit of the island and affords some stunning coastal and sea views. If you walk in an anticlockwise direction you will finish at the café which makes good refreshment stop. It is a pleasant walk, relatively short but with much to recommend it. If you visit Victor Harbor between June and September you can take whale watch trips to see migrating Southern Right Whales. The South Australian Whale Centre on Railway Terrace is the place to visit for all the information you may need. The Encounter Bikeway is a 31Km path that links Victor Harbor with the beach town of Goolwa, passing through the pretty town of Port Elliot. We struggled to find suitable bike hire on our visit which was disappointing but probably says something about our lack of planning as it was very much a spur of the moment decision to ride it.

Beaches. The Fleurieu Peninsula has more than its fair share of magnificent beaches many of which are big enough for a good walk and finding your own spot well away from other visitors. Many are just a short drive from Adelaide and make for a perfect day trip from the city if you don’t have time to explore the region in full. These include Christies, Maslin which has some wonderful cliffs with layers of different colours, Sellick/Aldinga which allow vehicles to be driven onto the sand though visitors will have to pay a small fee and Port Willunga. Further afield there are great beaches at the southern end of the peninsula including Goolwa and Horseshoe Bay in Port Elliot. No visit to South Australia is complete without a visit to the beach and you are spoilt for choice.

Cape Jervis. At the southern tip of the peninsula is the small town of Cape Jervis. From here you can catch the ferry to Kangaroo Island which sails hourly between 9am and 7pm in the summer but with fewer daily sailings in the winter. The Cape Jervis Lighthouse located on the headland has been in operation since 1871 but the current structure replace the original in1972. Its design is somewhat unusual being in the form of an inverted pyramid. The Deep Creek Conservation Park is just a short drive east of Cape Jervis and is the largest area of natural vegetation on the peninsula. With walking trails and camping grounds it provides the perfect opportunity to see wildlife in its natural habitat.

Yangarra Wine Estate

I have an admission to make, I loved everything about our visit to Yangarra. Arriving late in the afternoon the cellar door was quiet, calm, relaxed and very comfortable. for a short tasting of these super wines. The estate is a short fifteen minute drive from the town of McLaren Vale and just 2.5Km from the small town of Kangarilla. It is well worth the effort especially if Rhone varietals are your wines of choice. Located at 809 McLaren Flat Road the cellar door is open six days a week Monday to Saturday between 11am and 5pm. It is only a small space so try to avoid busy times such as Saturday and public holidays. These are wines for contemplation and should be savoured and enjoyed, you certainly don’t want to have to rush your tasting.

Yangarra, an aboriginal word meaning ‘from the earth’, is a single estate vineyard with all wines made from grapes grown here. Vines are grown in 35 blocks covering a total area of around 100 hectares. Low yielding old bush vine Grenache is a key varietal here. Other significant plantings are of Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan for the reds and Rousanne and Viognier for the whites. There are also up to eleven other varieties grown but in much smaller quantities.

Yangarra enjoys a moderate mediterranean climate with warm days for grape development and cool nights to preserve freshness and acidity. There are three distinct soil types found on the property. On the western side there is a sandwich of layers topped with semaphore sand. This provides the ideal environment for producing Grenache of depth and complexity. The central region sees little of the sand with exposed ironstone and a thin layer of clay while to the east the soil is a silty loam.

The estate has been organic since 2008 and certified biodynamic in2012. All wines have been certified biodynamic since the 2013 vintage. The philosophy here is one of minimum intervention, doing only what is absolutely necessary to produce wines of character, elegance and complexity. Wine making uses mechanical sorting and no crushing. Fermentation is in open top vessels and uses wild yeasts only. Pressing uses a modern stainless steel version of the traditional basket press. Wines are predominantly aged in old French oak so that oak doesn’t overly dominate allowing the wines true character to shine.

Estate Old Vine Grenache 2018. From fruit grown in four different blocks on 70 year old vines and matured for nine months in old French oak. Medium in body with delicious red fruits and perfumed dried herbs. Savoury with a lovely finish.

Ovitelli Grenache 2017. Fruit comes from block 30 where the vines are around 70 years old. Fermented and aged in ceramic amphora. A wild ferment with extended skin contact followed by maturation in the amphora, the wine has seen no oak at all. Elegant, perfumed red fruits with a touch of delicate spice. A delightful wine.

High Sands Grenache 2015. Only 2000 bottles of this superb wines were made. There are six blocks of old vine Grenache at Yangarra and this wine is made from fruit grown in block 31 which has vines almost seventy years old. It is located at a height of 210m and this is where the underlying sand is at its deepest and the vines most stressed. Vinification was 50% whole berry, 50?/5 destemmed with an open ferment using wild yeast. The wine was matured for eleven months in old French oak barrels. The nose is complex and beguiling with cherry, red berries and violets. The palate is wonderfully balanced and the fruit sings on through coupled with a lovely savouriness. If you are a lover of old vine Grenache you have to try this wine. Excellent stuff.

Estate Shiraz 2017. There are 12 individual blocks of Shiraz at Yangarra and fruit from six is used to make this wine, the average age of the vines is around 20 years. 10% whole bunch, of the remainder 50% was whole berry while the remainder were lightly crushed. A wild ferment was followed by twelve months on lees in French oak of which 25% was new. The nose is enticing with black fruits drawing you into a palate which yields peppery fruit and gentle spice. Great value.

Ironheart Shiraz 2016. Ironheart is made solely with fruit from block 15 which is planted on ironstone gravels. The vines were planted twenty years ago. Fermented with 25% of the fruit whole bunch and the remainder destemmed. Aged for 18 months with 35% in new French oak and 65% in older French oak. Black fruits, peppery spice and a savoury depth. I would love to try this again after a few years bottle age as it shows great potential. Excellent.

My only regret was that we didn’t get a chance to taste some of the other wines made here as we’d arrived late in the afternoon. Better planning is required next time. If you get a chance to visit don’t hesitate, get along there.

d’Arenberg Visit

A visit to d’Arenberg in the McLaren Vale is like no other. Arriving at a cellar door anywhere in the world and you kind of know what to expect. There will be a tasting room, sometimes with a view over the vineyards, an opportunity to purchase some wine and maybe a few other souvenirs and the larger establishments may have a cafe or even a restaurant. Now don’t get me wrong d’Arenberg has all this but it also has more, much more and some of of it may just surprise you a little.

The Osborn family have been growing grapes in the McLaren Vale since 1912 and making their own estate wines since 1928. The name d’Arenberg was first used in the late 1950s when Francis d’Arenberg Osborn was in charge of the estate and renamed it after his mothers maiden name. Today the business is run by fourth generation Chester Osborn, a highly innovative winemaker and buisnessman, who has developed the estate to what you see today.

The estate is dominated by the d’Arenberg Cube, opened in 2017 and built to resemble a Rubik’s cube puzzle. Designed by Chester himself it was built to represent the puzzles presented to the winemaker in creating different wines. Built on five levels its where your visit begins and you should aim to spend at least a couple of hours here if you are to enjoy the full experience. The cube with tasting room on the fourth floor is usually open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm and entry is 15AD per person.

Your visit begins with the Alternative Realities Museum located on the ground floor. The tour of the museum is self guided but you can download an app to your phone to aid your experience.

The museum is a fascinating, if a slightly surreal experience and there are some excellent exhibits. The Aroma Room is particularly good and in my view better that the aroma experience in the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux. Take your time and enjoy the experience.

The first floor is given over to bathrooms and the kitchen which prepares food for the Cube Restaurant located on the third floor. The restaurant is normally open Wednesday to Sunday but is currently permanently closed

A additional charge gives you access to the Dali at d’Arenberg exhibition. Salvador Dali is regarded as one of the greatest artists of his generation. On display here are 25 bronze sculptures on loan from the Dali Universe in Switzerland. There are also art works from Charles Billich, Australia’s very own surrealist artist. Admission to the cube plus Dali exhibition is 25 AD and is well worth it.

The tasting room is located on the fourth floor and gives wonderful 360 degree views over the winery and vineyards, strategically placed viewing platforms ensure that you get the best views.

The tasting room is large enough to cater for private groups if you are looking for a special event with some friends. The general tasting counter is nicely proportioned with plenty of space for a large number of small groups.

The Wines

The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2019. From fruit grown in the nearby Adelaide Hills this Sauvignon is fresh, crisp and dry with some lovely lime citrus, a hint of gooseberry and a finish that lingers.

The Dry Dam Riesling 2019. Aromas of lemon, lime and pear is a crisp. clean wine. Slightly off dry in style to balance the acidity.

The Hermit Crab 2018. A blend of Viognier and Marsanne which has seen a small proportion fermented in old French oak. Peach and apricot stone fruits with nice texture.

The Money Spider 2019. 100% Roussanne grown in the McLaren Vale. A wine with lovely weight and balance.The are stone fruits, mango and a hint of warming ginger. the finish is baked apple and spice.

The Lucky Lizard Chardonnay 2017. Fruit from the Adelaide hills was fermented for around seven months in old French oak. The wine is lemon citrus and peach with subtle warming touch of vanilla. Lovely balance and a great finish of almond marzipan.

Stephanie the Gnome with Rose Tinted Glasses 2019. A blend of Sangiovese, Shiraz and Cinsault. Fruit undergoes ten days of carbonic maceration followed by fermentation in stainless steel. A vibrant pink in appearance. Strawberry is king here with masses of red fruit and a hint of dry herbs, crisp and dry.

Peppermint Paddock Chambourcin Graciano NV. Vibrant red/purple in appearance. Intense aroma of cherry. A gentle mousse with lovely fruit.

The Feral Fox Pinot Noir 2018. Cool climate Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills. Delicate cherry and spice aromas give way to a light palate and a nice finish.

d’Arry’s Original 2017. This wine was renamed d’Arry in honour of Francis d’Arenberg Osborn who did much to grow the company and was known to all as d’Arry. The wine is a blend of Shiraz and Grenache both grown in the McLaren Vale. After an initial period in open fermenters the wine is transferred to a mixture of new and old French oak to complete fermentation. the wine ages on lees and there is no fining or filtration. The wine is soft and round with lovely red fruits and a spicy/peppery finish. Good value for money.

The Sticks & Stones 2015. A Tempranillo blend also containing Grenache, Tinto Cão and Souzão. This is a big, bold wine bursting red and black fruits. Has the structure to last for a good few years.

The Cenosilicaphobic Cat 2013. Cenosilicaphobia is the fear of an empty glass, something I’m sure we have all experienced at some time or another! The cat in question belonged to Chester Osborn and it developed a taste for red wine which of course had to be denied. The wine is a blend of Sagrantino and Cinsault which are vinified separately, completing fermentation in a mixture of old French and American oak. The wine does not undergo fining or filtration. With a bit of age the wine is soft and round with lovely savoury fruit and great concentration.

The Galvo Garage 2014. A Cabernet blend which has spent eighteen months in French oak. The wine hs a lovely depth of colour and lots of blackcurrant and plum. It has great mouthfeel and is drinking very well. It has a delightful touch of mint on the finish.

The Laughing Magpie 2015. A blend of Shiraz and Viognier which are co fermented. This is a wine that will benefit from a few more years of bottle age. It has great colour with dark, savoury berry fruit and delicate touch of b lack pepper.

The Ironstone Pressings 2016. A classic blend of Grenache (70%), Shiraz (25%) and Mourvedre (5%) from old vines some of which were planted over 100 years ago. The nose is complex, savoury dark fruits. A brooding giant with lovely rich fruit, great structure and a lingering finish.

The Dead Arm 2016. Classic McLaren Vale old vine Shiraz. Deep, dark an d complex with rich spicy fruit. Great texture and balance with the potential to live on and on. Beautiful wine.

The Amaranthine. Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012. From a vineyard planted in 1968, the wine has spent 20 months in old French barriques. Dark fruits, complex, savoury, spicy with a hint of cooling mint. Perfectly balanced and with great potential.

The Other Side. Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012. From a vineyard planted in 1916 which is at a higher elevation than Amaranthine and so is cooler. Not as expressive as Amaranthine but with great concentration. Big, meaty and savoury. When the tannins soften a little this will be yet another fantastic wine.

The Derelict Vineyard. 2018. Old bush vine Grenache from vineyards that once were abandoned hence the name. Soft red fruits with lovely peppery spice. A wine that is so drinkable now.

The Derelict Vineyard 2010. Lovely mature appearance and nose. Palate is complex with red fruits and a delicious savoury core. Lovely stuff.

The Blewitt Springs Grenache 2010. Made with fruit from three vineyards. Soft red fruit and blueberry, the wine is mature and ethereal. It has elegance and complexity with a nice hint of violet perfume. Excellent.

The Noble Botryotinia Fuckeliana 2017. A blend of Semillon (95%) and Sauvignon Blanc (5%). With 135g/l residual sugar this wine is very appealing with tropical aromas of passion fruit. Nicely balanced on the plate and a nice hint of orange on the finish.

The Noble Mud Pie 2017. A blend of Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Pinot Gris. It has 155g/l residual sugar but has lovely balance and freshness. Tropical fruits and lemon and a long lingering finish.

Once you have completed your visit to the Cube it is worth spending a little time in the sculpture garden or maybe even a visit to the Verandah restaurant. If you have purchased any wine during your tasting you will need to collect it from The Stables wine store close to the car park.