The Portuguese town of Sagres is on the western tip of the Algarve and close to the most south westerly point in Europe. All that you will find beyond here is ocean, and lots of it. Sailing due west from here there is nothing until you reach the coast of America almost 6000Km away. The coastline here is rugged and a bit wilder than the rest of the Algarve with big waves that not surprisingly attract a large number of surfers.
Sagres is only a short 33Km drive from the busy town of Lagos so makes for an ideal day trip. We drove fro Tavira in the eastern Algarve which is a ninety minute drive but most of that to as far as Lagos is on fast motorway. There is also a bus regular service from Laagos which takes around 45 minutes, Buses depart from the bus station in Lagos and stop outside the tourist office in Sagres. Some of these buses also go further to Cabo São Vicente but as not all do it is worth checking in Lagos if you wish to visit the lighthouse. Without transport it is a long 5Km walk from the town of Sagres.
Fortaleza de Sagres.
The main parking for the town is at the Fortaleza, there are plenty of spaces and it is free. From here it is just a short walk to the cliff top view over the Praia do Mareta and the many surfers riding the waves. It is here that Henry the Navigator is believed to have founded his school of navigation and prepared all those intrepid explorers for their journeys to come. Entrance is just three Euros and for that you can climb the walls for some spectacular views and walk the path around the headland which is fabulous and well worth the effort. Here you will also find local fisherman with rods and lines patiently waiting for a bite.
The walls of the fortress give a very good ariel view of the Rosa dos Ventos, a 50m diameter stone circle which is believed to be a representation of a compass used by sailors.
Cabo de São Vicente
This is the south westerly tip of Europe and its a wild and thrilling place. The lighthouse here dates from 1846 and is still in operation today. You will also find a small museum here along with a very good cafe, souvenir shops and toilets.
The views from the cliffs are spectacular with huge waves crashing onto the rocks and great views of the surrounding beaches. I can only image what it must be like on a stormy day. You really can see why it was once thought to be the “end of the world”.
The December tasting at Bunch Natural Wine Bar on Berry Street in Liverpool was a great way to end the year with some rather special bottles opened. The overall quality was high and these monthly tasting should be on the calendar of anon interested in low intervention wines which exhibit a true sense of place. Unfortunately I was unable to take photographs on the night so no bottle labels to accompany the notes. I’ll try better next time!
Magya Watt. Vinereuse. Gaillac. France. 2018. Marine Leys produces wines organically from five hectares in Gaillac. This is a rosé pet nat made from Gamay grapes which were hand harvested, destemmed and fermented in fibre glass. There was a short 2-3 day maceration on the skins. The wine was bottled without filtration before fermentation was completed. It has the gentlest of mousse with a lovely creamy texture and a nice touch of sweetness. Delicate strawberry fruit with just a hint of pear make this a very drinkable wine indeed.
Mad Dog. Madame Flock Wines. Mosel. Germany. 2018. Madame Flock wines is a joint venture of Robert Kane and Derek Labelle. Mad Dog is a single vineyard with vines of about 30 years old. Grapes were had picked and 30% fermented in old French oak and the remainder in stainless steel. The wine was aged for 10 months before bottling with no fining and minimum sulphur. a wine that really opens up given a few minutes in glass and a gentle swirling. Creamy and quite full with apple, apricot and a nice balance. A real grower, it got better and better.
Vita. Massa Vecchia. Tuscany. Italy. 2016. Massa Vecchia was founded in 1985 and has been certified organic since 1993. Vita is an orange wine made from 100% Malvasia di Candia.It spent two weeks on skins before being pressed into old oak barrels where it was left for a year before bottling. It then had a minimum six months before release. Golden in appearance, the wine is intense, powerful and complex with flavours of orange peel and candied fruits.The finish is incredibly long. A fantastic wine.
Rebela Rosa. Slobodne. Hlohovec. Slovakia. 2018. 50% Blauframkisch and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon which were vinified separately in old oak vats before blending and spending eight months in amphora. The aroma is quite floral with a nice touch of tarragon. The plate is round with a touch of sweetness.
Cette Main Légèrement Serrée M’a Laissé Perplexe. Anders Frederik Steen. Ardèche, France. 2018. Anders was formerly a sommelier and restaurateur in his native Denmark before his move into winemaking. He is now based in Valvignères in the Ardèche region of southern France where he makes a small range of highly individual wines. A blend of Carignan and Chardonnay aged for eight months in oak barrels then bottled without fining, filtration or the addition of sulphur. It is a medium bodied wine with lovely freshness and nice texture. Very drinkable and opens out really nicely in glass. The name translates as “the hand tightened a little too much left me perplexed”
En Remont. Julie Balagny. Beaujolais. France. 2018. Julie Balagny organically farms three hectares of vines in Fleurie from which she makes three wines; Cayenne, En Remont and Simone. She also has a small vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent. En Remont is made from old vines, hand picked, foot pressed before spending time in old oak barrels. This is serious stuff and a great expression go Gamay. Nice concentration, red fruits and hazelnuts in glorious harmony. An elegant wine with real character and a long, long finish. The wine of the evening for me.
Lisbon is an ideal location for a weekend city break and is only a short flight from the UK. The airport is located only short distance from the city so transfers by metro or taxi are relatively quick and straightforward. There is a lot to see and do in the city so here are some suggestions for a couple of days in the city.
Take Tram 28
Running from Praca Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique Tram 28 has become a top tourist attraction. The forty or so minute journey delivers some of the best of Lisbon though you will need to be lucky to see it in comfort. It is so popular that it has become crowded for most of the day with many passengers standing making it difficult to see much at all at times. For the best chance get there early to increase your chance of getting a seat for what is one of the best shows in town.
Take a Walking Tour
I am a great fan of walking tours and always try to take one in as soon after arrival as possible. Sandemans offer a free three hour walking tour in either English or Spanish which gives an excellent introduction to the city and its history. tours start form 10am by the statue at Praica Luis de Camoes and finishes at Praca do Comercio. Although free it is always best to prebook a place via their website.
Castelo de Sao Jorge
Built by the Moors and dating from the mid eleventh century it has undergone significant renovations over the years to create the castle you see today but it is everything you would expect. Built on one of Lisbon’s hills it offers great views of the city and beyond. Open seven days aweek, there is a 10 Euro admission charge but once inside there is plenty to see and a number of free tours are available.
Walk the Streets of Alfama
The district of Alfama lies between the castle and the river and is one of the oldest parts of the city. Its steep, narrow, cobbled streets are flanked by small houses and shops. Once the poorest area of Lisbon it is now undergoing some development but this hasn’t as yet changed it too much. It is easy to get lost here as you wander around but that is part of the experience and don’t let that put you off, someone will always point you in the right direction. If you prefer there are walking tours of Alfama, well worth a small charge for the expert guiding you receive. There are great views of the city from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.
Sample Fado Music
Fado originated in Alfama in the early part of the nineteenth century and can now be enjoyed in many parts of the country. Fado is sad, melancholic and bittersweet but is also so much more than that. There are a number of restaurants and clubs that offer dinner complete with a Fado performance most evenings in Alfama. The Museu do Fado on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro is worth a visit if you want to delve into the genre further.
Praco do Comercio
A huge plaza which leads down to the river Tejo. Built following the earthquake of 1755 it is a grand space that is closely related to the history of the city and is a great place to sit at the base of the statue of Dom Jose and take a breather from sight seeing. It is also the meeting place for some of the walking tours of the city.
Arco de Rua Augusta
Also known as Arco da Vitoria it is a triumphal arch with great views of the Price do Comercio, the river and city. Whatsmore it doesn’t attract the queues often seen at the nearby Elevador de Santa Justa and the views are excellent. An elevator followed by a narrow stone staircase leads to the viewing platform on the roof. When we were there there were only two other visitors. If you want a view of the city without a wait this is for you.
Torre de Belem
Located at the mouth of the river Tejo and just a short bus/tram ride from the city centre the tower has guarded the approach to the city since 1515. It is an impressive sight and a popular tourist attraction. You can climb the tower but be prepared to wait as queues are often long.
Padrao des Descobrimentos
Overlooking the Tejo and just a short walk from the tower is the Padrao des Descobrimentos. Unveiled in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator it is a most amazing sculpture full of all the significant Portugese who played a role in the age of discovery.
Museu Coleccao Berardo
This is a wonderful museum of modern art with all the big players represented. Situated in Belem close to the other attractions it is an oasis of clam and tranquility. As visitors queue for the tower or jostle to get that perfect photo for instagram the museum is quiet by comparison. if you like modern art you’ll love this place.
Mosteiro dos Jeronimos
Built in 1501 to celebrate the opening of a sea route to India by Vasco de Gama the monastery is a real jewel in Lisbon’s crown. It can get very busy at times so it may be best to visit as it opens at 10am. A visit to the Belem would not be complete without a visit here. There is a charge for entry to the cloister but it is free on the first Sunday of the month. Entrance to the church is free at all times.
Eat Custard Tarts
To be honest you can’t eat enough of these and they are available at Pastelarias all over the city. If you want to try the original then visit Casa Pasteis de Belem which is just a few short steps away from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. This is where they were first made in the early part of the nineteenth century and the recipe hasn’t changed since. They are best served warm with just the lightest sprinkling of icing sugar but eat them anyway you like, you won’t be disappointed. There is also a cafe here which can seat up to 400.
Travel on a Funicular Railway
Lisbon is built on seven hills and some of them are steep and punishing to climb. Lisbon has three funicular railways
Ascensor da Glória. This connects Praça dos Restauradores with the Bairro Alto district. You will pass some excellent street art are as you ascend/descend the hill.
Ascensor da Bica. This connects Rua de São Paulo and Largo do Calhariz and ascends one of Lisbon’s steepest hills. It’s popular as it offers some good photo opportunities.
Ascensor do Lavra. This is the oldest of the funiculars in the city. It can be the quietest of them so may well be for you if you don’t fancy a queue at busy times.
Eat and Drink in the Bairro Alto
If you walk the narrow, steep streets of the Bairro Alto during the day you could be forgiven for thinking that not much is going on in this district. Return in the evening and you will be amazed by the transformation. This is the place to be for restaurants, bars and clubs and every visitor should try the area at least once during their visit to the city. There are numerous restaurants here but we particularly enjoyed Primeiro de Maio and Bota Alta, both on Rua Atalaia, serving local, traditional dishes at very reasonable prices. Two excellent wines bars here are BA Wine Bar (107 Rua Da Rosa) and Garrafeira Alfaia (125 Rua do Diaro de Noticias). Both serve food and have really helpful staff if you are unsure which Portugese wines to try. They are small so you may need to reserve a table but both do walk ins.
