Month: July 2018

Port in Porto

Porto is the second largest city in Portugal but has a population of less than a quarter of a million so it manages to have the feel of something much smaller than expected. It sits on the northern bank of the Douro river, directly opposite the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. To many they are as one and both are closely identified with the city’s most famous export, port.

Some port facts

  • Port can be produced in only one region – Portugal’s Douro Valley.
  • Yield are low in the Douro due to the hot climate and poor soils.
  • Over 100 different grape varieties can be used to make port but only five are mainly used; Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touring Nacional.
  • The grapes are traditionally trodden by foot in large tanks called lagars.
  • Port was made in the Douro valley but was taken to Porto where it was much cooler and there was less chance of the wine spoiling.
  • Port used to be transported to Porto by boat called a Rabelo as it was much quicker than by road
  • Up to 1986 it was compulsory to take port to Porto to mature. It can now be done in the Douro as modern technology has meant that temperatures can be accurately controlled.

Tasting port

In Porto, close to the river, is Portologia (Rua de Sao Joao 28-30). This is a good place to start as there are many different tastings available and so can give you a flavour of the different styles of port available. It is an interesting establishment as it has some of the smaller port producers available that you do not usually come across in the UK. If you taste something and like it you can buy a bottle to take away with you.

Crossing the river into Vila Nova de Gaia there a several options available for visiting a port house and taking in a tour. Taylors is one of the oldest port houses dating back some 325 years. Tours here are self guided following a trail and supported by an audio commentary which is available in several languages. Reservations are not necessary but you can book ahead if you wish, the cellars are open from 10.00 to 18.00 every day. Taylors cellars are at the top of the hill so be prepared. The views from here though are pretty spectacular.

The tour includes a tasting of two wines; Chip Dry White Port and Late Bottled Vintage.

Taylors also has a restaurant, Barão Fladgate, which is excellent for lunch following your visit but is also open in the evening. I would recommend making a reservation here, especially if you want one of the tables outside which have superb city views. Both food and service are excellent and it is the perfect end to a visit.

There are of course plenty of other options to visit a port house including;

If you want to sample port but are not bothered about a guided tour there are number of options available. Many of these are on, or close to, the waterfront (Avenida Diogo Leite) and therefore require little walking from the bridge.

  • Ramos Pinto – has a huge tasting room with comfy sofas. Very welcome at the end of a busy day.
  • Quinta do Noval – has no cellars in the city. All port is matured in the Douro valley
  • Sandemans

The biggest challenge is choosing what to include. As port is a fortified wine there is only so much that you can taste in one day without feeling rather worse for wear!

Pinhão – Quinta de la Rosa

Quinta de la Rosa is within walking distance of the centre of Pinhão although taxis are available from outside the railway station. This may well be a better option if you are staying at the Quinta and have luggage.

Pinhão from Quints de la Rosa

Quinta de la Rosa offers the full package. Not only does it produce port, table wines and olive oil but it can also offer accommodation and, since 2017, a restaurant. The accommodation here is very comfortable as we can attest from our stay in the region a couple of years ago.

Tours of the property are available  at 11.30, 14.30 and 17.00 and last for around an hour, finishing with short tasting. It is always advisable to pre book to ensure that places are available on a given day. You can read about visits on their website

In the still air of early morning some super refections can be seen in the still water of the river.

Finest Reserve Port. Ruby in colour, youthful. Berry fruit with hints of caramel. The palate is silky, fruit is complemented by hints of coffee. A nicely made style of port which is very approachable, not overly sweet and may well suit those new to drinking port.

Pinhão – Quinta do Bomfim

Quinta do Bomfim is only a short walk from the railway station in Pinhão in Portugal’s Douro valley and is therefore probably the easiest tasting room to visit if you have arrived by train from Porto. You can read my post about the train journey here . Reservations are now required to visit the Quinta and so it is best to do this in advance of your visit. It is well worth it. The tour includes a vineyard walk but this is optional if the weather is very hot. You can make a reservation via their website here

Quinta do Bomfim is owned by Symington Estates. The Symington family have been involved in the port industry since 1882 and the company now own several of the well known port brands including, Grahams, Warre’s, Dow’s and Cockburn’s. The vineyard here is about 61 hectares under vine and the production largely got into making  Dow’s.

It is a beautiful location, with the tasting room overlooking the river, you could sit and drink it in all day!

 

Dow’s 10 year old Tawny. Tawny in appearance with a feint ruby tinge. Nose of caramel, toffee, stewed fruits and a hint of orange. Palate is rich and savoury with a lovely lingering finish.

Grahams 20 year old Tawny. Good colour with a feint ruby. Nose not as expressive as the Dow’s. Caramel and dried fruits. Richer in style, sweeter. Not as nuanced as the 10 year old.

Dow’s 20 year old Tawny. Pale tawny in appearance. Nose of burnt caramel, toffee and orange peel. Palate is rich, complex with a lovely freshness.Lovely balance with a lingering praline finish.

Grahams 40 year old Tawny. Nose is nutty, caramel and sweet fruit. The palate is complex, harmonious with dried fruits, nuts and a wonderful lingering finish.

Dow’s 1985. Appearance is mature fading to tawny at the rim. Nose is black fruit, stewed prunes, cinnamon spice, medicated sweets and cherry. Palate is smooth and rich, tannins are integrated. A lovely glass of vintage port.

A visit to Quinta do Bomfim will give an excellent understanding of the process of making port from the vineyard to the bottle. You can also taste the fruits of their labours in such a beautiful setting.