Month: October 2018

Chateau Dauzac Visit

Chateau Dauzac is a fifth growth in the Margaux appellation of the Medoc, some 16 miles from Bordeaux and close to the village of Labarde. Dauzac is the most southerly property in Margaux and the closest to the river Garonne thus creating a unique microclimate for growing grapes.

The name Dauzac can be traced back to 1545 and wine has been made here for centuries resulting in the property being classed as a fifth growth in the 1855 classification. In 1988 it was purchased by the insurance company MAIF. In 1991 it was leased to the Lurton family who managed the estate until 2013. Since the purchase by MAIF a series of improvements have been undertaken with started with renovation of the chateau and the restoration and replanting of some of the vineyards. A new vat room was built in 2014.

The estate is is 120 hectares in size, of this 49 hectares is planted with vines. This includes 45 hectares in the Margaux appellation and 4 in Haut Medoc. The remainder of the state is planted to create a biodiversity reserve. Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on the gravel/sandy soils and Merlot on the gravel/clay. The averase age of vines is 35 years with the oldest vines in the region 60 to 80 years. Vineyard management is increasingly using organic/biodynamic practices.

Harvest of the merlot grapes for the 2018 began on September 17th and was completed in good weather. Harvesting of the cabernet was underway at the time of our visit and was expected to be completed by around October 10th weather permitting. All fruit is handpicked using a team of 70 pickers. On arrival in the vat room the fruit is sorted before and after desteming. The aim is to get fruit from vine to vat in one hour or less.

Vineyard plots are linefeed separately, the premier wine in wooden vats and the second and third wines in stainless steel. Fermentation is with cultured wild yeasts and is usually completed in 10-15 days. This is followed by 3-4 week maceration before separation from the skins and then natural malolactic fermentation.

See through panels in the oak vats enables the winemaker to see what is actually happening as fermentation progresses.

Ageing is in French oak barrels which are sourced from seven different coopers. A light to medium toasting is used on the barrels. Chateau Dauzac is usually aged for 16-18 months in 70% new oak while other wines receive about 12 months barrel ageing in 20% new oak.

Labastide Dauzac. Margaux. 2015

58% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 15 months. A youthful red/purple in appearance. Very fruit driven, raspberry, strawberry and some cherry. Has a nice spice finish. An easy drinking style of wine.

Aurore de Dauzac. Margaux. 2014

61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and aged for 12 months. The second wine of Chateau Dauzac. Aromas of blackcurrant, cherry and some nice savoury character. Palate is medium with nice freshness. Very good.

Chateau Dauzac. Margaux. 2014

68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot. Aged for 16 months in 68% new French oak. Deep colour with blackcurrant, cherry and plum. The palate shows lovely balance and complexity. Round and soft with some nice  savoury liquorice. Excellent.

 

 

Saint Emilion

The medieval town of Saint Émilion is an absolute gem and is a must do destination for anyone visiting the Bordeaux region. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and its location is wonderful, completely surrounded by vineyards. It is one of the major wine growing appelations of the Bordeaux region, producing red wines and is an appellation where the merlot grape reigns supreme.

I have been lucky enough to visit Bordeaux on three separate occasions. In August it was hot and very crowded. Parking is limited in the town, it is surrounded  by vineyards, and is therefore very hard to come by if its busy. In December the town is very quiet and ideal for great photo opportunities but some businesses were closed as it was out of season. My most recent visit was in October and it was ideal. Not too busy, parking readily available even arriving late morning, everything open and pleasantly warm. I would guess visiting in spring would be pretty similar

Saint Emilion makes an excellent day trip from Bordeaux. The journey by car is around 50Km and takes about an hour depending on the traffic in Bordeaux when you leave. If you have planned a vineyard visit do allow plenty of time in case the traffic out of the city is bad. It is possible to catch a train from Bordeaux’s Gare St. Jean. There are 14 trains per day however not all of them are direct, the four trains during the main part of the day require a change at Libourne. At the time of writing the 9.11 from Bordeaux is the last direct train until the 17.09. The station at Saint Emilion is located about a 20 minute walk from the town, the walk is very pleasant but it is worth bearing in mind. It is also possible to join a tour from Bordeaux to the town. Costs here very much depend on the type of tour and its duration.

There is no getting away from the fact that Saint Emilion is a tourist town and wine is its most important business. Over the years I have seen that the number of shops selling wine has increased considerably. Many will allow you a tasting and there is no obligation to buy. There are some great wines for sale but you are unlikely to find any bargains amongst the more renown chateau on offer.

There is however much more to the town than wine. It is a town built for wandering, discovering the streets, alleyways and yards. As its small you don’t need a map but do bear in mind that its hilly. As you wander there are lots  of little shops and not all of them sell wine.

There are art galleries and craft shops which are well worth a visit and a stop for the local delicacy is a must. Macarons de Saint Émilion are not the brightly coloured creations that many may be familiar with. These are thin, crisp almond biscuits and they have been made here for centuries.

There are also plenty of restaurants to choose from and the terrace area in the lower part of the town is very popular and it is easy to see why. It is a superb location.

Cordeliers Cloister can be found in the eastern part of town and is a listed monument dating back to the 15th century. It was abandoned in the late 18th century but then the caves beneath were subsequently used for the production of sparking wine. The wine goes by the name of Les Cordeliers and its production is very rare in the local region. Tours of the cellars are available as is a tasting of the wines. A glass, or two, is very pleasant on a warm afternoon.

Saint Emilion never disappoints and I always seem to be able to find something new in this medieval town. A visit is a day well spent.

5 Reasons to Visit Bordeaux

  1. The old town districts of Saint Pierre and Saint Paul. These narrow and busy streets are the beating heart of Bordeaux and date back to medieval times. They are a joy to wander around with numerous small shops, cafés and restaurants. Don’t miss the Grosse Cloche, the bell tower is built in the gothic style and the bell has been used to warm the citizens of Bordeaux  of significant events for centuries. The current bell was made in 1775 and is rung at noon on the first Sunday of the month and for other significant occasions such as Bastille Day.

Place St. Pierre is a lovely space to stop for coffee, the tree covered terrace gives welcome shade if it sunny.

For those requiring something little stronger Vins Urbains (27 rue des Bahutiers) is an excellent wine bar, serving mainly French wines alongside small plates. Beware however, it is not open at lunchtime.

2. La Cité du Vin. 

Opened in 2016 and now one of the top tourist attractions in the city it is a must for wine lovers but there is also much to admire for others. Basic admission covers the permanent exhibition, the observation deck giving excellent views of the city and a wine tasting from the sixteen on offer in the Belvedere Bar. Many other booking options are available including a full wine tasting, sensory workshop and  tour of the building focusing on its design and construction. You can easily spend a full day here. You can read more bout it in my post here

3. The Water Mirror. The water mirror, constructed in 2006, is to be found opposite one of Bordeaux’s architectural gems, The Place de la Bourse. the mirror is the worlds largest reflecting pool of water. Constructed from slabs of granite, the surface is flooded with water to a depth of only 2cm. As the flow of water stops, the surface gradually clears to create a perfect mirror much loved by locals and visitors alike. The cycle repeats every 20-30 minutes to replenish the water which gradually drains away. There is even a system to create mist which gives an intriguing and alternative view. It gets very busy at times and you may have to wait awhile to get that perfect photo as adults and children just love going for a paddle.

4. One of the worlds greatest wine regions. The Bordeaux region produces somewhere around 700 million bottles of wine per year, 90% of which is red, some of which is the most expensive wine in the world. The good news is that the wine regions are relatively close to the city and make for an ideal day out from the city. You can hire an car or join one of the day trips that leave the city each day. A chateau visit is a great way to see how this famous wine is made and visits always finish with a short tasting. It is worth noting that for many of the well known chateau an appointment is necessary prior to visiting. This can usually be done via the chateau’s website and the advantage of this system usually means that you have your own private tour for as little as 15 euros in some cases.

5. Food. As in many towns and cities in France food is taken very seriously indeed. There are numerous options to suit all manner of budgets. If queues are anything to go by L’Entrecote (4 Cours de 30 Juillet) is a big favourite. When it opens at 7.15 there around 100 people waiting to get in. The queue moves quickly however as the restaurant is large. It is a set menu of steak, chips and salad with very reasonably priced drinks. It offers great value. Nearby, opposite the Opera House, the Grand Hotel offers a  more formal experience in the Gordon Ramsey restaurant L’Pressoir d’Argent which holds two Michelin stars. Les Noailles (12 Allées de Tourney) offers a traditional French bistro style experience.

The Canele is a small rum flavoured cake that is filled with a light custard which can be found in many shops and cafés of the city. They can be eaten for breakfast or as a snack with a cup of coffee. Well worth trying.