Gordon River Cruise

The Gordon River is located in south western Tasmania, flowing from the central highlands into Mcquarie Harbour, it is a wilderness area protected by law and one of the best ways to see the area is by boat.

Cruises operate from the town of Strahan (pronounced Strawn) which is on the northern shore of Macquarie Harbour. We went with Gordon River Cruises who operate from an office on The Esplanade. Check in opens at 8am and the boat sails at 8.30, you can book in advance via their website and this is probably best for the busy summer months. The cruise lasts for 6 hours and lunch on board is included in the ticket price. There is also a small cafe bar where you can purchase coffee and snacks. The boat is a 190 seater catamaran called the Spirit of the Wild.

Seating onboard is spacious and comfortable, If you choose to remain inside the views are good thanks to the huge glass windows. There are external viewing decks for those that want to spend a little time outside.

The cruise is actually split into three parts. The first is a trip across the harbour to the narrow opening with the Southern Ocean called Hells Gate. A notoriously difficult area to navigate due to shallow water and currents you can see the remains of the breakwater that was built at the beginning of the twentieth century to improve the entrance and exit to the harbour. Bonnet Island is a small island at the entrance to the harbour upon which was built a lighthouse.

Bonnet Island lighthouse

Returning from Hells gate across the harbour towards the mouth of the Gordon River you pass some of the fish farms which are permitted in the parts of the harbour which are outside the designated wilderness area.

As you enter the mouth of the river the captain switches from traditional engines to an electric motor giving a much quieter journey up the river and enabling you to enjoy the magnificent scenery in peaceful tranquility.

The temperate rainforest is dense and lush but surprisingly quiet. The Huon Pine was once king here but logging for its highly valued timber reduced numbers significantly until its cessation. They are some of the longest lived living things with some found is Tasmania estimated to be over 10,000 years old.

The boat docks at Heritage Landing where a boardwalk has been built to take you on a short circular walk through the forest. It really is a most amazing place, a vulnerable ecosystem which must be preserved for the future.

From Heritage Landing the boat heads back downstream as this is the farthest that lane boats can travel.

As you enter back into Macquarie Harbour the main engines are re-engaged and you set course for Sarah Island, the final part of the cruise.

For eleven years between 1822 and 1833 Sarah Island housed the toughest penal colony in Australia. If you caused trouble in other colonies you were sent here, if you escaped and were recaptured you were sent here. Isolated in Macquarie Harbour escape from here was virtually impossible.

You spend about an hour here and are taken round by a Ranger who gives a very informative and entertaining commentary as you walk around what remains of the site. Considering its location, exposure to the elements and age the buildings are quite well preserved. You cab still see the remains of the bread oven in what would have been the camp bakery.

The tour ends back at the landing stage and you board the boat for the three quarters of an hours cruise back to Strahan, arriving back at around 2.30. A great trip and well worth doing if you are lucky enough to visit this wonderful part of Tasmania.

Eating and Drinking in Hobart

A highlight of any visit to Hobart is the locally produced food and drink that is on offer in a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops. Quality is high here and locals take real pride in their locally produced produce and when its this good why wouldn’t you. This post is by no means the definitive guide but does represent some of the places we enjoyed on our two recent visits.

Jackman & McRoss (57 Hampden Road). We rented an Airbnb in Battery Park and this delightful cafe was only a five minute walk away and was ideal for breakfast. It gets busy, especially at weekends, but service is quick and there is some pavement seating if you prefer. There are some excellent choices on the menu.

Machine Laundry Cafe (12 Salamanca Square). Bright, colourful and a great place to stop for coffee and cake as you explore the shops and galleries of Salamanca.

Retro Cafe (31 Salamanca Place).

Located close to the waterfront and serving very nice coffee .

Fish Frenzy (Elizabeth Street Pier). A lovely waterfront location overlooking the harbour, with indoor and outdoor seating, and serving some fantastic seafood at reasonable prices. If fish and chips is your fancy then try the Blue Eye Trevalla, you won’t be disappointed. One of the nicest fish I have ever had.

Syra (8 Salamanca Square). We had a lovely dinner here. The food is Middle Eastern and comes in either small or large plates. We went for the option where the kitchen decides what you eat, which is available for parties of two or more. Takes all stress of choosing and we were not disappointed, everything was delicious. The service was also excellent.

Honey Badger Dessert Cafe (7 Salamanca Square). Despite its name it does serve a small number of savoury dishes but that’s not really what people come here for. For those that dessert is the best part of a meal this is the place for you.

Tom McHugo’s (87 Macquarie Street). What more could you ask for, a pub serving restaurant quality food at reasonable prices. They also have a first class selection of craft beers, the Ocho Seasonal IPA was one of the best beers we had on the whole of our time in Australia. It can get busy so it is best to book ahead if you want to eat here.

MONA. There are a number of options when visiting this fantastic museum. The cafe serves some very tasty sandwiches and snacks and as everywhere in Tasmania the coffee is excellent. If you require something a little more substantial there is The Source Restaurant. There are some pretty good options for drinks here also including The Void Bar ion the depths of the museum.

Preachers (5 Knopwood Street).

If craft beer is your thing then a visit to Preachers, just a short walk from Salamanca Place, is a must. Located in an old victorian house it also has a very large beer garden into which they have integrated an old single decker bus should it get a little chilly or wet. With twelves or so beers on tap there is always a good range of styles and breweries on offer. They also do a nice line in food too.

The Whaler (39 Salamanca Place). There has been some sort of public house here since 1829 and the current incarnation serves some very nice beer indeed. Outdoor seating enables you experience the bustle of Salamanca first hand.

Things to do in Hobart

Hobart is Australia’s second oldest and most southerly city. It really is a super place to visit as it’s small enough to make it walkable for most of the sights and there is a wealth of excellent places for food and drink.

MONA

The Museum of Old and New Art is like no other museum I have ever been to. Located mainly underground it will surprise, amuse and shock you in equal measure. Located 8 miles from the centre of Hobart but if you don’t have a car you can catch the ferry from Brooke Street Pier in the centre of town.

Mount Wellington

You really can’t avoid Mount Wellington as it stands dominant as a backdrop to the city. Standing at an impressive 1271m it can be snow capped even in the summer and even on a hot day in the city it can be cold and windy at the summit. It’s a half hour drive to the top from the centre of Hobart on a road that can be steep and windy in places. Its well worth the effort getting there as the views are spectacular.

Salamanca Place/Square

The sandstone former warehouses close to the waterfront have been transformed into Hobart’s cultural heart. Home to independent retailers, galleries, restaurants, cafes and bars there is something for everyone here and its a great place to spend a few hours. On Saturday mornings the street is transformed into a very popular and successful street market. With over 300 stallholders it has become the place to buy local products.

Battery Point

Battery Point is an area of the city adjacent to Salamanca, It is lovely area, ideal for wandering around in a leisurely manner admiring the beautiful houses most of which date back to Victorian times. Conservation status mean that the area is protected from unwanted development. Stop for coffee at Jackman & McRoss on Hampden Road if you feel like watching the world go by, the food is pretty good here as well.

Mawson’s Hut

Mawsons Huts are actually to be found at Cape Denison in Antarctica but Hobart has created a fascinating museum in the form of a replica hut. If you are interested in Antarctic exploration or in the human ability to survive in extraordinary conditions this is for you. We spent a good hour in here and were really glad we went.

Take a Walking Tour

Hobart Free Walking Tours have two tours. The first is a cultural and historic tour which runs daily from St David’s Park and lasts for two hours. The second is a ghost tour departing from Salamanca Square. Historic Hobart also offers a number of different tours but you do have to pay a fee.

Take a Trip to Port Arthur

Port Arthur Heritage Site is the best preserved penal colony in Australia and is only a 90 minute drive from Hobart. You can either self drive or join a tour from the city. From 1833 for twenty years the most hardened criminals were sentenced to time at Port Arthur and it is of great significance as it is so well preserved. Entrance is 40AD and this is valid over two consecutive days if you have a couple of days in the area and when to take your time visiting all the buildings and exhibits.

Sample the Food and Drink

You really are spoilt for choice in Hobart as there are so many good quality cafes, bars and restaurants. If you are self catering in the city there is Salamanca Fresh on Salamanca Place, a superb supermarket selling some of the best of what Tasmania has to offer. I have written a more detailed post on eating and drink in Hobart here.

Take a Bruny Island Cruise

Bruny Island Cruises have a three hour boat trip from Adventure Bay on the island which features the dramatic coastline and wildlife of the area. You can travel by bus from Hobart in which case it becomes a full day tour. Bookings can be made online or at their office on Franklin Wharf from where the day tour departs at 7.45 daily.