Chris | Postcards From Here and There

Rottnest Island

If you take only one day trip/tour while visiting Perth or Fremantle in Western Australia make sure its this one as it has a little bit of everything. Rottnest is a small island in the Indian Ocean just 18Km west of Fremantle at the mouth of the Swan River. Measuring only nineteen square kilometres it is small enough to explore in a day, add the fact that it has 63 beaches you will be spoilt for choice and may well have many of them to yourself.

The best way to get to Rottnest is by ferry. We chose Rottnest Express’s sailing from the Barrack Street jetty at Elizabeth Quay in Perth. The cost is dependent on which particular package you go for, we included bike hire and this is by far the most popular option. The first part of the journey is a very pleasant and relaxing cruise along the Swan River to Fremantle. A very informative commentary plays as you sail past the local landmarks and refreshments are available if you need them. A brief stop in Fremantle to pick up the remaining passengers and then its off to Rottnest. In all the journey time from Perth is ninety minutes.

Collect your bike as you disembark at the terminal on Rottnest and with the map of the island provided choose your route. There are three rides shown on the map. The blue tour is the shortest at 1.5Km and stays close to the terminal, the green route is 10km is takes you past the beaches closest to the ferry terminal. This is very popular and as a consequence the beaches get very busy. The longest ride follows the orange route and is 22km. making a circuit of the island. Once you have completed the first section which is common with the green route it becomes much quieter and you may find yourselves riding on empty roads for some sections. The roads are very well surfaced and the riding is relatively easy with no real hills but gently rolling in places. The only vehicles on the island are service vehicles and the occasional bus so you won’t have to deal with very much traffic. If cycling is not your thing there is a hop on hop off bus that operates, stopping at 18 key locations it is an alternative, air condidtioned way to see the best of the island.

It is best to ride both the green and orange routes in a clockwise direction around the island so ensuring that you have the prevailing wind at your back most of the way.Dont worry about how busy it is around the ferry terminal and for the first few kilometres The crowds will rapidly thin out after you pass the first few beach stops. You need to carry food and a t least two litres of water with you, especially in the hot summer months. When we did the trip in late February there was a small refreshment van at the west end of the island overlooking Fish Hook Bay but I don’t know opening times and it may well be closed at certain times of the year.

There are a number of good snorkelling spots on the southern side of the island most notably at Porpoise Bay, Parker Point and Little Salmon Bay. It is a very popular activity and these beach areas can get particularly busy. Rottnest Island is particularly well known for its population of Quokkas, a marsupial about the same size as a domestic cat. We saw then at the side of the road near to Salmon Bay but they were also to be seen around the cafés and shops at Thomson Bay. They have a very limitied range and can only be found at a few locations in Western Australia.

The West End of the island is particularly dramatic. A boardwalk has been constructed to help protect the delicate habitats here and it allows you to see some of the wildlife. It is a perfect location for whale and bird watching. Migrating Humpback and Southern Right whales can be seen here in April and again between September and December. Ospreys have nested at Fish Hook Bay for over seventy years though sightings are not always possible. The coastal scenery here is equally dramatic with the powerful ocean crashing through arches and fissures in the cliffs.

Close by are Cathedral Rocks where a viewing platform gives some fantastic views of New Zealand Fur Seals as they bask and swim. They have a habit of resting with their tails sticking out perpendicular to the surface of there water, quite curious.

As you travel back towards the ferry terminal at Thomson Bay there are some particularly nice beaches on the northern side of the island at Little Armstrong Bay and Parakeet Bay. From here the ride back to the ferry terminal is relatively straightforward but make sure you have enough time to catch you allocated sailing back to the city. Refreshments are available at Thompson Bay and there’s nothing ;like an ice cold drink at the end of your mammoth cycle ride.

We booked return sailing at 5pm so we were back in Perth at 6.30, just in time for pre dinner drinks. A great way to end a wonderful day out.

4 Days in Perth

Perth in Western Australia may well be regarded as the worlds most isolated city which makes all the more reason for making the most of a visit here. It has so much to offer and is such a chilled and relaxed place that you should aim for at least a four day visit and maybe longer if you have the time. This gives you time to not only explore the city itself but also to get out and explore the wider city region. Here’s what we managed to do in four days, its a fairly relaxed itinerary and is by no means exhaustive, there is plenty more to see and do if you have the time or different interests. Whatever you choose to do you won’t be disappointed, Perth is a truly wonderful place and I can’t wait to go back there.

TAKE A WALKING TOUR

I always try to do a walking tour soon after arriving in a city. You get the benefit of local knowledge and in many places you have a choice of tours to suit your particular interests. Two Feet & a Heartbeat undertake a two hour tour of the Central Business District that includes historic buildings, alleys and lane ways, street art and concludes with a welcoming cold beer in Yagan Square. Tours are around two hours in duration, start times and frequency depends on the particular tour you choose.

KINGS PARK AND BOTANIC GARDEN

A visit to Kings Park is a must for a perfect view of the city below you. you can walk there in around 45 minutes from the CBD including a climb of the 242 steps of Jacobs Ladder depending on the route you choose. For the less energetic you can catch a bus (935) from St Georges Terrace right to the park and what’s more its free and fairly frequent. As well as the perfect viewing point you will find an information centre, café and the botanic gardens of Western Australia which are well worth a visit.

ROTTNEST ISLAND

Rottnest island sits in the ocean 11Km west of Fremantle. It make for a perfect day trip from Perth and is a very popular destination in the summer months. We booked a trip with Rottnest Express which included bike hire so we could explore the whole island during our visit. Ferries leave Elizabeth Quay early in the morning for a very pleasant cruise along the Swan River to Fremantle where it collects the remainder of its passengers.

Collect your bike as you disembark at the ferry terminal on Rottnest, its very busy close to the terminal but once you get a short distance away you will almost have the road to yourselves.The highlight of any trip is a viewing of Quokkas, small marsupials that can only be found in a small number of locations in Western Australia.

You can return to the terminal for a late afternoon sailing back to Perth, arriving just in time for pre dinner drinks.

FREMANTLE.

The quickest and easiest way to get to Fremantle, at the mouth of the Swan River, from Perth is by train. Trains depart from the main Railway station every 15 minutes, more frequently at rush hour, and the journey takes 30 minutes. You will need at least a full day as there is much to see and do including Fremantle Prison where there are numerous tour options to choose from, Fremantle Markets, Little Creatures Brewery and a whole range of fascinating shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. Its even more chilled and relaxed than Perth and a visit is a must for anyone visiting the area.

SWAN VALLEY WINE TOUR

The Swan Valley wine region is just a short drive north East of Perth and makes for an excellent day out of the city. There are a number of companies that offer day trips which have hotel pick ups and drop offs in the CBD. We chose Out and About Wine Tours, visiting five wineries (Lancaster, Sandalford, Windy Creek, Sittella and Heaford Glen), Elmars micro Brewery and The Margaret River Chocolate Company. Lunch was provided overlooking the vineyards at Sittella. Tours depart fro the city at 10am and return at 5pm.

CRUISE ON THE SWAN RIVER A cruise on the Swan River is a lovely relaxing activity and a great way to get a slightly different perspective of the area. You can take a dedicated cruise with one of the operators from Elizabeth Quay or combine your cruise with another activity. The trip to Rottnest Island includes a cruise downstream to Fremantle and it is possible to cruise up stream as part of the Swan Valley wine experience. Either way its a delightful thing to do.

SEE SOME STREET ART Perth is regarded as the second best city for street art in Australia after Melbourne. I love street art and seek it out wherever I go as the street art scene can tell you an awful lot about a place. Hunting out street art can be time consuming but in Perth you get to see some fine examples on the CBD walking tour with Two Feet and a Heartbeat, especially in the area of Grand Lane.

TRY SOME CRAFT BEER AND NATURAL WINE There are so many options in and around the city its difficult to know where to start. In the CBD the State Building on Barrack Street is a good place to start. Here you will find Petition, a superb craft beer bar. With 18 beers available on tap and many more available by bottle you really are spoilt for choice, what’s more the list on tap changes rteqularly. We arrived late on a Sunday afternoon and there was live music and a lovely atmosphere. What more could you ask for.

In the same building is The Wine Merchant which has a very impressive wine list with bottles on the shelves for you to browse and select, if you prefer just a glass they have about 20 available at any one time. Wines of While is a small wine bar located on William Street in Northbridge. All the wines here are made with minimum intervention and no nasty chemicals. The list is eclectic and fascinating, a real gem and not to be missed by lovers of natural wine. further afield in Fremantle is Little Creatures Brewery and Taproom, great for a c old beer or two after a day spent sight seeing before catching the train back into Perth.

Fleurieu Peninsula Top 5

The Fleurieu Peninsula is an hours drive south of Adelaide in South Australia. It is a delightful area to explore as it is largely unexploited by large scale commercial tourism and so is a quiet and tranquil area so close to a large city. The cooling influence of ocean on three sides results in a climate that avoids excessive heat in the summer while still being warm and pleasant. The area is renown for its wines, beaches and cuisine made with local produce. Often overlooked by tourists to South Australia it is well worth spending a couple of days here.

The McLaren Vale. The McLaren Vale is one of Australia’s oldest wine regions with vines first planted as long ago as 1838. The regions reputation as one of Australia’s best is centred around its red wines, most notably Shiraz but there are so many other wines to explore here including some superb old vine Grenache and a range of exciting whites. With over 65 cellar doors open to the public for tastings there is much to discover in the region. Many visitors head for the futuristic looking tasting room at d’Arenberg and the experience here is like no other in the region as it also includes the Alternative Realities Museum as well as an exhibition of fine art. There are however many other fantastic places to visit, personal favourites of mine include Coriole, Battle of Bosworth and Yangarra. To get the best out of the area pick up a map of the wine region from the tourist information centre situated at 796 Main Road at the northern end of the town of McLaren Vale. I have written separate articles about the region in general and visits to d’Arenberg and Yangarra.

Willunga. A short drive south fromMcLaren Vale is the town of Willunga. The distance may well be short but the two towns couldn’t be more different. Willunga is one of the oldest towns in South Australia and can date its origins back to the 1840s and it retains much of the old town feel where times moves at a gentle pace.The Main Street has a great selection of cafés, restaurants, bars and shops. It is a place to linger over that cup of coffee and just let the hustle and bustle of the day pass you by. If you are lucky enough to visit at the weekend then don’t miss the much heralded Willunga Farmers Market which is held in the town every Saturday morning, it offers some of the best produce that the region has to offer.Visitors in January (exact dates vary) may catch the colour and excitement of a stage of the Tour Down Under cycle race which tradtionally includes an ascent of Willunga which ascends as you head south out of the town.

Victor Harbor. The town of Victor Harbor on the south coast of the peninsula is about as busy as it gets, especially in the summer m months when it becomes the go to holiday destination of the region. The highlight for me was Granite Island which is linked t the town by a wood built pier. A horse drawn tram is a big attraction and will take you across in relative comfort but it is also a pleasant walk if you are on a budget. Once on the island a well defined path, complete with strategically placed sculptures, takes you on a circuit of the island and affords some stunning coastal and sea views. If you walk in an anticlockwise direction you will finish at the café which makes good refreshment stop. It is a pleasant walk, relatively short but with much to recommend it. If you visit Victor Harbor between June and September you can take whale watch trips to see migrating Southern Right Whales. The South Australian Whale Centre on Railway Terrace is the place to visit for all the information you may need. The Encounter Bikeway is a 31Km path that links Victor Harbor with the beach town of Goolwa, passing through the pretty town of Port Elliot. We struggled to find suitable bike hire on our visit which was disappointing but probably says something about our lack of planning as it was very much a spur of the moment decision to ride it.

Beaches. The Fleurieu Peninsula has more than its fair share of magnificent beaches many of which are big enough for a good walk and finding your own spot well away from other visitors. Many are just a short drive from Adelaide and make for a perfect day trip from the city if you don’t have time to explore the region in full. These include Christies, Maslin which has some wonderful cliffs with layers of different colours, Sellick/Aldinga which allow vehicles to be driven onto the sand though visitors will have to pay a small fee and Port Willunga. Further afield there are great beaches at the southern end of the peninsula including Goolwa and Horseshoe Bay in Port Elliot. No visit to South Australia is complete without a visit to the beach and you are spoilt for choice.

Cape Jervis. At the southern tip of the peninsula is the small town of Cape Jervis. From here you can catch the ferry to Kangaroo Island which sails hourly between 9am and 7pm in the summer but with fewer daily sailings in the winter. The Cape Jervis Lighthouse located on the headland has been in operation since 1871 but the current structure replace the original in1972. Its design is somewhat unusual being in the form of an inverted pyramid. The Deep Creek Conservation Park is just a short drive east of Cape Jervis and is the largest area of natural vegetation on the peninsula. With walking trails and camping grounds it provides the perfect opportunity to see wildlife in its natural habitat.