A Stroll Down Bold Street

Ropewalks is part of the city centre that consists of a series of narrow, parallel streets that run from Renhaw Street to Lydia Ann Street. It is this area that was the heart of rope making in the eighteenth century when Liverpool was developing into a major port for sailing ships and the demand for rope for the ships rigging was enormous. A single ship needed miles of rope if it were to be seaworthy and they were partly manufactured in what were then fields on the edge of the city. As part of the manufacturing process the ropes were laid out to dry and each rope making business had their own narrow strips of land for this purpose. These were later to become the streets of the Ropeworks quarter of the city when development and expansion of the city occurred in the early nineteenth century. Bold Street is one such street.

Bold Street is very similar in length and width to its neighbouring streets in Ropewalks, reflecting its history as a former site of rope making. It runs from the end of Renhaw Street, opposite St Lukes Church, to Hanover Street and it has become one of the city’s premier shopping and entertainment areas, renown for its eclectic mix of independent businesses.

The Havelock Building (130 Bold Street) stands on the corner opposite St. Luke’s Church and when it was built in 1858 it would have been one of the tallest in the city with three floors. It was here in 1864 that Dr Sebastian Ziani de Ferranti was born, his father owning a photography business in the building. Ferranti became a pioneering electrical engineer, designing the first modern power station and the means of supply electrical power to homes. A process that remains unchanged to this day.

News From Nowhere (96 Bold Street) has been a fixture on Bold Street since 1989 although the business itself was founded in the mid seventies at a different location.

News From Nowhere describes itself as Liverpool’s Radical and Community Bookshop and it is certainly a Liverpool institution. Next door, above the entrance to Liver House is a blue plaque commenmorating Jeannie Mole.

Jeannie Mole was a social feminist and trade union organiser who is credited with bringing socialism to the city. She moved to the city in the late 18702 following her second marriage and lived here on Bold Street. She was politically very active encouraged the development of trade unions for women, including those involved in rope making, though the industry was less significant in the city at this time. She was known to to have held many meeting at her home here.

As well as its historical importance this top section of Bold Street is renown for its numerous coffee shops and restaurants. Almost opposite the Havelock Building is Bold Street Coffee (89 Bold Street). Re-opened in late 2018, following a temporary closure, it serves some of the best coffee in the city along with light snacks. A great stopping off point for any city visitor in need of a little refreshment.

There are a number of restaurants close by, two particular favourites are Maray (91 Bold Street) and Mowgli (69 Bold Street). Food here is small plates and the ambience casual and laid back. Both are well worth a visit, Mowgli has no reservation and is walk in only, Maray has reservations but also space set aside for walk ins.

I am particularly fond of Artisane (84 Bold Street). Not only is the coffee excellent but they also have a fantastic range of pastries and breads. Too good to miss.

More or less across the road is Leaf (65-67 Bold Street). This is one for all tea lovers with a huge number on offer including black, white, green, oolong and fruit teas. They also serve good range of food and they have an extensive breakfast menu. For those requiring something a little stronger than tea they also have good range of alcoholic drinks. Leaf now occupies the site of Liverpool’s first vegetarian cafe The Yamen which opened in 1910.

Unfortunately I can never resist a record store. By that I mean a proper, old-fashioned store the deals principally in vinyl records. There is just something pleasing about flicking through the racks, admiring the artwork and hopefully coming across something of interest. Dig Vinyl (80 Bold Street) is such a place and a worthy stopping point for any serious record collector. It is actually situated in the basement and the shop (Soho) on the ground floor is a clothing store so its not exactly obvious, a sigh outside is usually there to help location. I hear that in the near future that they are to relocate to bigger premises on a first floor location close by and still on Bold Street. Music lovers may also be interested in 77 Bold Street which back in the 1980s was the site of Cafe Berlin, the interior of which featured on the cover of local band The Icicle Works album The Small of a Bicycle.

Matta’s International Foods (51 Bold Street) has been on Bold Street since 1984 when it relocated from Toxteth. Another Liverpool institution, it is the place to go for the widest range of produce from around the world available in the city. The staff here are so friendly and helpful. It is easy to see why the business has thrived over the years.

At the junction of Bold Street and Concert Street is the statue entitled Reconciliation by Stephen Broadbent.

One of a series of identical statues with others in Benin on the West Coast of Africa and Richmond on the east coast of America. These three locations represent places in the slave trade triangle. The states represent the building of bridges and overcoming racial disadvantage.

At the bottom of Bold Street as it makes the junction with Bold Street is The Lyceum. Built in 1802 it has been through a number of incarnations including a gentleman club, a library, a cafe and a post office. It was saved from demolition in the early 1970s but sadly the building is currently vacant. It’s Grade II listed and a fitting building to end a stroll down Bold Street

Winter Wine Round Up

I haven’t done a wine round up for several months but the period around Christmas and New Year is always a significant one in terms of bottles opened and enjoyed with family and friends. The festive season provides a good excuse to open special bottles or something a little out of the ordinary and somehow the wines take on an additional significance when they are accompanied by great food and good company. Here are a few short notes on some of those that made a significant impression.

Arnot Roberts. Watsons Road Chardonnay. 2014. Napa Valley. USA. A Californian Chardonnay of such perfect balance. Intense flavours of lemon, stone fruit, almond and a touch of butter. There is a real elegance here. A savoury edge to the finish. Excellent and a real favourite around the table. This wine is a great example of what chardonnay can do in California when it is not overly oaked.

Bergstrom Old Stones Chardonnay. 2015. Oregon. USA. A lovely balance of orange, pear and stone fruits with a touch of gunsmoke. Fresh acidity and a touch of vanilla. Very nice.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay. 2014. Hemel-En- Aarde. South Africa. Yellow gold in appearance, clear and bright. Nose is tropical, nutty, lemon citrus and spicy vanilla. The palate is delightful, nicely balanced with good acidity to balance the rich fruit. The mouthfeel is slightly creamy and there are lovely flavours of tropical pineapple and almond marzipan. A lovely lemon zesty finish. Excellent stuff.

Yeti and the Kokonut. Savagnin. 2018. Adelaide Hills. Australia. Pale yellow, slightly hazy with aromas of lemon, pear and a slightly almond nuttiness. The palate is dry with nice texture and balance and a lovely lemony finish. Delightful, very nice indeed. Just wish I was in the Australian sun drinking it!

Chateau de Fieuzal. Pessac Leognan. 2010. France. A great depth of colour and slightly closed on the nose. The palate however is very expressive with black fruits, tobacco and a touch of liquorice. There is a softness and touch of sweetness to the palate. Excellent and very popular.

Chateau La Fleur Petrus. Pomerol. 1995. France. Wonderfully intense nose of black fruits, liquorice and menthol. The palate is full, rich and with lovely balance. An incredibly long finish. Superb.

Grahams 1983. Nose is complex with berries, dried fruit and fig. Drinking beautifully, rich but well balanced with a lingering finish. Wonderful.

Dows 1985. Stunningly good. Expressive, rich, savoury dried fruits with a touch of spice and soft tannins. This is drinking very well.

Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud. Sauternes. 2003. This is absolutely delicious. Such a well balanced wine, it has honeyed sweetness, citrus, almond and an excellent texture. Very very good.

Enid Street Bermondsey

Back in October 2018 I wrote a post about the craft beer tap rooms on Druid Street in Bermondsey. 

Druid Street can be either the start or end of the Bermondsey Beer Mile. What was once perfectly achievable in a single visit, the opening of more taprooms and the numbers of beers available at each means that it is simply not possible to cover the whole area in one go. So in this, the second post in the series, I will look at the taprooms on Enid Street which is just a short walk round the corner from Druid Street. The closest tube station is Bermondsey on the Jubilee line.

From The Bottle Shop on Druid Street turn right onto Abbey Street, go under the bridge and then turn first left into Enid Street. The tap rooms here are all very close together starting with Moor Beer Company (71 Enid Street).  

This Bristol based brewing company opened their barrel store and tap room on Enid Street in 2018 and it has become a popular calling point for craft beer aficionados. Very busy on my visit with a good range of beers, plenty of standing room and adequate seating. The Tucka Burger van was parked right outside for when the munchies get to you. There was a good atmosphere here and certainly the most lively of the four taps visited.

Moor Beer Company Stout 5%. Just time for one beer here and stout was what I fancied. Dark and opaque with a thin tan head. Aromas of coffee, caramel and toffee. Nicely balanced with medium bitterness and gentle/soft carbonation.

Next door is London Calling Sweden (72 Enid Street). Serving beers from Swedish brewery Poppels and opened so that ex pat Swedes could have a taste of home it is an altogether quirky and not unpleasant place for a beer or two.


They have created a space which is adorned with what might best be described as a collection of unconventional objects including a three seat sofa in. pride of place on the stage, suitcases and an opticians eye test chart. As different as you can get from nearby Cloudwater. There is limited seating but plenty of standing room. Snacks are available but payment here is by card only. Tasting flights are available and that’s what I thought I’d try.

Poppels Passion Pale. 5.2%. Pale amber and clear with a thin white head. Aromas are tropical with malt and a touch of caramel. Palate has gentle carbonation, low bitterness and a slight creamy texture. Flavour is tropical with a hint of lemon citrus. Very drinkable.

Poppels American Pale 5.4%. Amber,clear with a good white head and some lacing. Aromas of malt, caramel and a init of citrus. Palate has good carbonation, low bitterness and flavours of malt, caramel, biscuit and a touch of resiney pine. The finish has a bitter tang.

Poppels IPA 6.5%. Light amber with the feintist of haze and a good white head. Aromas of pineapple, malt and a slightly floral character. Palate is low bitterness with gentle carbonation. Nice mouthfeel with some tropical flavours. A slightly bitter, lemon/pine finish.

Poppels Greeliner Weiss 5%. Pours vivid green, murky no head. Fresh zingy acidity with lime, cucumber and mint. Very gentle carbonation. A beer which is far more interesting on the palate. Don’t be put off by the appearance.

Next up is the recently opened Cloudwater Tap Room (73 Enid Street). No signage here, just a printed note on the door saying ‘we are open’. Inside the decor is shipping container chic, they have done their very best to make a railway arch not look like a railway arch and it works well. There is a bar at the far end , made to look like its been constructed from quarried stone. There are something like 20 beers on tap and the staff are very knowledgeable and happy to help you negotiate the menu despite it being busy. It is definitely the most interesting selection of beers because of the sheer diversity off styles on offer. There is plenty of seating though not all has access to a table and there are good toilet facilities. As you might expect from Cloudwater the whole experience is well done. Wished I had more time to investigate the range, sadly only time for two.

Cloudwater Pale. 4%.  Yellow, cloudy in appearance with a thin white head. Aromas of mango and grassy pine. Palate is low carbonation and low bitterness with gentle lemon citrus. The finish is quite bitter.

Cloudwater Bourbon BA Kentucky Common. 8.2%. Collaboration with Against The Grain. Dark, opaque with a thin tan head. Nose is very aromatic with caramel, treacle toffee, cola and muscovado sugar. Palate has nice fresh acidity and complexity, there is caramel, vanilla, toffee and cola. Mouthfeel is excellent with a slight sweetness and there is a long lingering finish. Excellent.

Finally it’s Brew By Numbers (75 Enid Street). Part of the Bermondsey craft beer scene for some time Brew By Numbers has a tasting room which has ten beers on tap and a selection of bottles and cans. There is seating away from the bar area with space for around 30. There is plenty of standing. Small snacks are available as well as a range of merchandise including t-shirts and glassware.

I sampled a couple of beers here but unfortunately didn’t accurately record what they were! As a result there are no tasting notes for this visit.

Before visiting any of the tap rooms it is well worth checking opening times online before heading off as they can be sometimes subject to change.