Author: Chris

5 Reasons to Visit Bordeaux

  1. The old town districts of Saint Pierre and Saint Paul. These narrow and busy streets are the beating heart of Bordeaux and date back to medieval times. They are a joy to wander around with numerous small shops, cafés and restaurants. Don’t miss the Grosse Cloche, the bell tower is built in the gothic style and the bell has been used to warm the citizens of Bordeaux  of significant events for centuries. The current bell was made in 1775 and is rung at noon on the first Sunday of the month and for other significant occasions such as Bastille Day.

Place St. Pierre is a lovely space to stop for coffee, the tree covered terrace gives welcome shade if it sunny.

For those requiring something little stronger Vins Urbains (27 rue des Bahutiers) is an excellent wine bar, serving mainly French wines alongside small plates. Beware however, it is not open at lunchtime.

2. La Cité du Vin. 

Opened in 2016 and now one of the top tourist attractions in the city it is a must for wine lovers but there is also much to admire for others. Basic admission covers the permanent exhibition, the observation deck giving excellent views of the city and a wine tasting from the sixteen on offer in the Belvedere Bar. Many other booking options are available including a full wine tasting, sensory workshop and  tour of the building focusing on its design and construction. You can easily spend a full day here. You can read more bout it in my post here

3. The Water Mirror. The water mirror, constructed in 2006, is to be found opposite one of Bordeaux’s architectural gems, The Place de la Bourse. the mirror is the worlds largest reflecting pool of water. Constructed from slabs of granite, the surface is flooded with water to a depth of only 2cm. As the flow of water stops, the surface gradually clears to create a perfect mirror much loved by locals and visitors alike. The cycle repeats every 20-30 minutes to replenish the water which gradually drains away. There is even a system to create mist which gives an intriguing and alternative view. It gets very busy at times and you may have to wait awhile to get that perfect photo as adults and children just love going for a paddle.

4. One of the worlds greatest wine regions. The Bordeaux region produces somewhere around 700 million bottles of wine per year, 90% of which is red, some of which is the most expensive wine in the world. The good news is that the wine regions are relatively close to the city and make for an ideal day out from the city. You can hire an car or join one of the day trips that leave the city each day. A chateau visit is a great way to see how this famous wine is made and visits always finish with a short tasting. It is worth noting that for many of the well known chateau an appointment is necessary prior to visiting. This can usually be done via the chateau’s website and the advantage of this system usually means that you have your own private tour for as little as 15 euros in some cases.

5. Food. As in many towns and cities in France food is taken very seriously indeed. There are numerous options to suit all manner of budgets. If queues are anything to go by L’Entrecote (4 Cours de 30 Juillet) is a big favourite. When it opens at 7.15 there around 100 people waiting to get in. The queue moves quickly however as the restaurant is large. It is a set menu of steak, chips and salad with very reasonably priced drinks. It offers great value. Nearby, opposite the Opera House, the Grand Hotel offers a  more formal experience in the Gordon Ramsey restaurant L’Pressoir d’Argent which holds two Michelin stars. Les Noailles (12 Allées de Tourney) offers a traditional French bistro style experience.

The Canele is a small rum flavoured cake that is filled with a light custard which can be found in many shops and cafés of the city. They can be eaten for breakfast or as a snack with a cup of coffee. Well worth trying.

 

La Cité du Vin

In 2009 Alain Juppé, the mayor of Bordeaux, proposed that the city built a museum to celebrate the importance of wine to the city and the surrounding region. Furthermore it would also show how wine was important to heritage and culture of peoples around the world. It would be a wine museum like no other.

In 2011 an industrial site by the river and close to the district of Chartrons, where the city’s wine merchants had their cellars, was purchased. Construction began in 2012 and the building was finally open to the public on 1st June 2016. The total cost of the project was 94 million euros.

The design was by means of a competition which was eventually one by a firm of Parisian architects, chosen from a shortlist of five. To many it resembles a decanter but the winning design was not intended to be figurative. Rather the design was to have a roundness and flexibility to reflect the nearby River Garonne. However you look at it the building is stunning and a real contrast to the more formal style of architecture seen in and around the city. Over two thousand aluminium panels have been used to create the swirling base and 940 glass panels in the tower. The public areas are constructed of 524 laminated wooden arches, used to create the impression that you are inside a barrel as you walk through the exhibits.

The easiest way of getting to the museum is by tram. Line B will take you from central Bordeaux to the museum for less than 2 euros. The trams are modern, clean, comfortable and a great way to get around the city. Timing your visit may seriously affect the experience. In winter there may be 300-500 visitors per day but this can rise to 2000=3000 on weekends at the height of summer. You can avoid queues for tickets by purchasing online, a sensible plan if it looks like it might be busy. Whatever the season early in the day is a good time to begin your visit as you can easily spend all day here. On the day of our visit on a weekday in early October the museum was relatively quiet.

The ground floor is devoted to ticketing and cloakroom but there its also a shop, a rather  impressive wine cave and a small brasserie serving some very nice food indeed. It makes an excellent spot for lunch.

The first floor covers workshop space and temporary exhibitions. You can book a wine workshop when buying general admission and they are delivered in English as well as French. There is also a rather fine library and reading room which is open to everyone and the Thomas Jefferson auditorium for larger meetings and events.

It is on the second floor where you will find the permanent exhibition. This consists of 19 different themed areas which you can plan your own route through. The admission price includes an audio guide which is available in eight different languages. Sensors on the exhibits trigger the relevant piece of audio for your own immersive experience.  The exhibition is interactive and multi sensory. A lot of thought has gone into giving you useful information in a fun and engaging way. I particularly enjoyed the video walls showing aerial footage of the worlds major wine regions, the photography here was stunning. There is a series of bell jars from which you can explore the scents associated with wine, an in-depth interactive explanation of cultivating vines and of course an area devoted to the wines of Bordeaux. The best thing about the permanent exhibition is that there is something for everyone, it appeals to all ages and levels of interest in the world of wine.

To end your visit your ticket also includes a wine tasting in the Belvedere Bar at the top of the tower, which also gives superb panoramic views of the surrounding area. You can choose your tasting sample from the sixteen or so wines on offer. The roof of the bar has been constructed from 3800 litre glass bottles and makes quite an impressive sight.

You can take your glass of wine out onto the viewing platform to enjoy the view.

A perfect ending to a great day at a superb museum. The city can be justifiably proud of such a magnificent attraction.

 

Druid Street Bermondsey

With a couple of hours to spare on Sunday lunchtime on a recent visit to London I decided to pay a quick visit to Druid Street in Bermondsey. Perhaps not one of the best known tourist destinations it is however well known to craft beer enthusiasts as it forms part of what has become known as The Bermondsey Beer Mile.

The northern end of Druid Street is a short, pleasant walk across Tower Bridge from Tower Hill underground station, while the southern end can be reached from Bermondsey, on the Jubilee line.  It is also very close to Maltby Street market which is on at the weekend only.

The various taprooms are located in converted railway arches. Opening times  are well worth checking before you visit. All are open at some part of weekends but not all are open during the week.

Southwark Brewing Company, 46 Druid Street.

Website Southwark Brewing

With three beers on cask and four from keg it offers a reasonable choice to drinkers. Seating is limited but at the time of my visit this was not an issue.

All Day Breakfast. Session Pale Ale. 3.4%

What better way to start than with breakfast! Serves yellow, hazy and with a thin white head. Aroma is lemon citrus with a hint of orange. Palate is light, low bitterness and with a finish that has a tang of bitter lemon. Light, easy drinking style.

Shine on You Hazy Diamond. IPA. 7.2%

Orange appearance, cloudy/murky with a small white head and some nice lacing. The aroma is tropical; pineapple and mango, with orange, lemon and caramel. The palate is juicy, soft, slightly creamy, gentle carbonation and low bitterness. Flavour profile is dominated by tropical fruit with some nice gentle citrus.

The Barrel Project, 80 Druid Street

WebsiteThe Barrel Project

Only opened in August 2018, three weeks before my visit in early September. The London Beer Factory experimenting with barrel aged beers is what this taproom is all about. A large bar with plenty of choice of beers and lots of seating. Only had time for a very quick drink here but it looks like a promising idea, one to watch and return to once its been open a while and established itself.

London Bohemia Lager. 5%

Light yellow, hazy, thin head and nice lacing. Aroma is fragrant, floral, lemon, malty, hoppy. Palate is clean and crisp, low bitterness, good carbonation. Very clean taste. A nice easy drinking style.

Hawkes Cider, 96 Druid Street

WebsiteHawkes Cider

The growth in the availability of craft cider parallels in some ways the growth of craft beer and many craft taprooms feature at least one on their listing. Well here is a taproom devoted to cider with the odd beer on the list. Seeing themselves as the “saviours of cider”, this taproom makes a welcome alternative.

Anspach & Hobday, 118 Druid Street

WebsiteAnspach & Hobday

Lots of brewing g tanks in evidence here but unfortunately it was closed at the time of my visit for a private function later in the afternoon. One to return to in a future visit.

The Bottle Shop, 128 Druid Street.

WebsiteThe Bottle Shop

This is the model for all good bottle shops in my view. To the right as you enter is a small bar serving ten beers on tap. The remainder of this side is taken up with fridges holding a vast array of bottle and cans available for drinking in or taking away. The rest of the space has been devoted to seating with space for 50 or so around the available tables. They have also cleverly created an upstairs seating area. This is good as it was by far the busiest establishment.

Cloudwater. Helles Tettnanger. 4.8%

Golden. hazy with a thin white head and nice lacing. Aroma is malty, lemon citrus, some floral character and slight breadiness. Palate is low bitterness, gentle carbonation, grassy, malty. A finish of biscuity pine. A lager for those that don’t like lager.

Gipsy Hill. Beatnik Pale. 3.8%

Golde, clear, thin white head. Aromas of malt, pine/resin and lemon. Palate is medium minus bitterness with quite aggressive carbonation. Flavours of malt, pine, orange with a hint of caramel. A lingering finish with a nice touch of bitterness.