Author: Chris

Launceston

We were lucky to have a couple of days in Launceston as part of our recent trip to Tasmania. Launceston is very much in the shadow of the state capital Hobart but it is well worth a visit as it retains much of the old world charm often lacking in cities today. Blessed with some well preserved Victorian architecture and some rather nice parks it sits at the meeting of the North and South Esk rivers which then become the Tamar which flows north towards the Bass Strait. The South Esk is responsible for Launceston prime geological feature, The Cataract Gorge.

The Cataract Gorge

Only a ten minute drive from the centre of town and you are in a completely different world. It is at the southern end of the South Esk river and is probably Launceston number one tourist attraction. My advice is to get there early, parking should be relatively straight forward in the small car park and the crowds yet to arrive.

There are some stunning walking trails to scenic viewpoints along the gorge which should not be missed and a cable car across the first basin which gives you a stunning view up the gorge itself. The area around the basin has been developed into attractive parkland and gardens and there is even a swimming pool which is very popular with families. The cafe serves excellent coffee and snacks if you are in need of refreshment after a walk in the area. The gorge is not to be missed.

The Tamar Valley

The Tamar Valley runs north from Launceston for around 60km to the ocean. It is a beautiful area and is well worth a day trip either as part of an organised tour or a self drive. For many the Tamar Valley is renown for its cool climate wines, particularly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along with some rather fine sparkling wines made in the traditional method. I have written about the Tamar Valley Wine Route here. The riverside road through Gravelly Beach is a beautiful drive with plenty of opportunities to stop and appreciate the views. There are fruit farms in the valley where you can pick your own. Hillwood Berries is on the eastern side of the river and it also has a cafe for refreshments.

James Boag Brewery

James Boag have been brewing beer in Launceston for over a century and the beers are much loved in the city and Tasmania in general. You can undertake a guided tour of the brewery which ends with a tasting of the beers made. Tours run seven days a week at 11am, 1pm and 3pm. The cost is 33AD per person. Numbers are limited on each tour so it is best to book ahead as it is very popular. You can access the webpage for booking here.

Festivale

If you are lucky enough to be in Launceston on the first weekend in February you are in for a real treat because this is when Festivale is held in City Park. It takes place over three days and showcases the best of Tasmanian food, drink and entertainment. Thousands attend every year and is an important date in the local calendar. The atmosphere is relaxed, friendly and welcoming. There are so many food stalls its hard to choose so its best to share if you can and graze throughout the afternoon/evening. Once you’ve decided what to eat there’s then what to drink with it from the amazing range of beers, wines, ciders and soft drinks on offer. Prices are reasonable making the event good value for money. There are a number of stages offering entertainment from stand up comedy to indie bands on the main stage. I can’t praise this event enough, it was a fantastic way to spend a warm Friday evening.

Tamar Valley Wine Route

The Tamar River can be found north of Tasmania second city of Launceston. It flows for over 60km towards the Bass Straits and is home to some of the islands best wines. To create a circular route for visitors the Tamar Valley wine region has been combined with the Pipers Brook region to the east and it makes for a pleasant day either self guided or by joining a tour from Launceston.

Some Wine Facts

  • The Tamar Valley is Australia’s oldest wine region with vines first established in 1823 by former convict Bartholomew Broughton.
  • The modern vineyards began to be established in the 1970s
  • The climate here is best described as maritime with warm summers and cool winters, ideal for making cool climate wines.
  • 40% of Tasmania’s premium wines are made in the Tamar Valley and 19% in Piper’s Brook.
  • Pipers Brook region is known to produce Australia’s best sparkling wines.
  • The principal grape varieties grown are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris.
  • The wine route is around 170km and is marked by a yellow sign with a blue bunch of grapes.
  • There are over 30 cellar doors to visit but some may require an appointment so it is as well to check beforehand.

We followed the route anticlockwise from Launceston, mainly so that we could hit the sparkling wine producers in Pipers Brook in the morning rather than later in the day after we’d been tasting red wines. The route is easy to follow and is well marked once you have left the city. Departing Launceston on the A8 we made a right turn onto the B81 and headed for the town of Lebrina. There are far too many cellar doors to visit in a single day so a little pre planning is a good idea. A map of the route and list of wineries is available here.

First up for us was Clover Hill (60 Clover Hill Road, Lebrina), an estate which specialises in the production of sparkling wines made in the traditional way. The property was established in 1986 and produced its first vintage in 1991. Six sparkling wines available to taste and I particularly enjoyed the Vintage Brut 2013, a blend of Chardonnay (63%), Pinot Noir (31%) and Pinot Meunier (6%), which was elegant with some lovely toasty notes and good length. The Vintage Rose 2015 was also rather delicious with some delicate and elegant strawberry fruit.

Next up was Jansz (1216B Pipers Brook Road), a producer whose entry level wines are readily available in the UK. Two tastings are available here with a small charge for the top wines which is waved if you make a wine purchase. We opted for the full range and it was well worth it, these were some of the best wines we tasted.The Premium Cuvee represents excellent value for money, a 60% Chardonnay 40% Pinot Noir blend it is delicate with lovely texture and a long lingering finish. However my personal favourite was the Late Disgorged Vintage Cuvee 2011, a blend of 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir. An elegant wine with richness and complexity. It has an incredibly long nutty finish.

Next door to Jansz is Pipers Brook Vineyard (1216 Pipers Brook Road) where we sampled some very fine Riesling 2018 and a lighter style Gewurtztraminer 2019 which had lovely delicate Turkish delight and floral notes.

We had then hoped to visit the Bay of Fires Winery (40 Baxters Road, Pipers River) but despite dialling the number given on the cellar door we couldn’t make contact. Nevermind there is always the next time we are in Tasmania! From here it is a rather pleasant drive over into the Tamar River valley itself crossing the modern Batman Bridge. The vines disappear as you leave the Pipers Brook region and you will not really see them again until you are on the eastern bank of the Tamar.

We started off with a visit to Holm Oak ( 11 West Bay Road, Rowella) has a comprehensive portfolio of wines. We were lucky to taste over fifteen wines and the overall quality was excellent. Particularly enjoyable whites included a 2018 Arneis, fermented in concrete egg and displaying peachy stone fruit and a nice texture. Also enjoyable were the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc and both the estate and Wizard Chardonnays. The Pinots were delightful ranging from an easy drinking Estate Pinot 2018 to a complex and ethereal 2017 Hot Shot Pinot Noir. A 2019 Cabernet Franc with a nose of red berries and violets was delightful, juicy and easy drinking.

The cellar door at Moores Hill (3343 West Tamar Hwy, Sidmouth)has a lovely location, surrounded as it is by vines. Standout here was the Chardonnay 2018, fermented in a mixture of new and old oak and aged for ten months this is everything you could want, lovely lemon citrus with subtle toasty vanilla. The Pinot Noir 2018 was cherry , delicate perfume and a gentle savoury spice. A lovely crafted wine.

Our final call of the day was to Stoney Ridge ( Hendersons Lane, Gravelly Beach) was a superb drive from Moores Hill along the banks of the Tamar. Stoney Ridge is a small 8 hectare property which is organically managed and is in a wonderful location.

Pinot Noirs here are excellent with a no sulphur Pinot which would make very fine easy drinking. The star of the show was the Holyman Pinot Noir 2017 with lovely eight and depth, elegant and complex. A fine ending to a great day out.

5 Reasons to Visit Tasmania

Tasmania is the smallest of Australia’s six states and lies some 260 miles south of Melbourne, separated by the waters of the Bass Strait. The state capital is Hobart which is served by an excellent, modern airport from where you can get flights to the main east coast cities. You can also fly into Launceston but it is a much smaller airport with only sixteen arrivals a day, mainly from Melbourne and Sydney. You can also travel to Tassie by ferry from Melbourne. There are seven crossings a day with an average sailing time of around ten hours. Ferries arrive at the port of Devonport on the islands northern coast.

Tasmania is often not on the list of many travellers to Australia and this is a real shame as it has so much to offer. We spent two weeks travelling around and were warmly welcomed everywhere we went. With an average summer temperature of 21 degrees it can be very pleasant, especially for those that don’t like the higher summer temperatures of the mainland. It does get a reasonable rainfall, especially in the western part of the state, and so is much greener than you might expect. The locals will tell you that if you don’t like the weather just wait fifteen minutes and it will change so there is something for everyone!

The Tasman Peninsula

The Tasman Peninsula is south of Hobart and is perhaps best known for the penal colony of Port Arthur which was established here in 1833. The settlement here is now an historic site and attracts a quarter of a million visitors each year. The peninsula is a spectacular area with dramatic sea cliffs, secluded beaches and some of the best walking and hiking on the island. The Three Capes Track is a four day walking experience which begins by taking a boat from Port Arthur to Denmans Cove where the 48km walk officially begins. If you enjoy the outdoors the Tasman Peninsula is for you.

Mona in Hobart

The Museum of Old and New Art is like no other museum I have ever been to. Located mainly underground it will surprise, amuse and shock you in equal measure. Located 8 miles from the centre of Hobart but if you don’t have a car you can catch the ferry from Brooke Street Pier.

Food, Wine and Beer.

Tasmanians are rightly proud of their home produced food and drink. Standards are very high here, quality ingredients and very talented chefs make for some first class dining experiences. Cool climate wine making on the island produces some world class sparkling wines and pinot noirs, many of which are only available here in Tasmania. There is a thriving craft brewery industry here making an impressive, and very drinkable, range of beers and ciders.

Cradle Mountain National Park

Cradle Mountain is an area of outstanding natural beauty in the heart of the Tasmanian Central Highlands wilderness. There are numerous walking trails including the 65km Overland Track which takes walkers from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair. The track is very popular and prebooking needs to be made as the number of walkers is limited by the park authorities. If walkings not your thing there are numerous other outdoor activities available including canyoning, wildlife spotting and horse riding.

Strahan and The Gordon River

Strahan is a delightful small town on Tasmania’s west coast. From here you can take a cruise up the Gordon River which was declared a Wilderness World Heritage Area in 1982. The cruise ships use electric motors when on the river so that you can appreciate the true quiet that exists in the rainforest areas adjacent to the water. You can also visit Sarah Island, located in Macquarie Harbour, a former penal colony which housed the worst of the worst convicts.