Travel | Postcards From Here and There

Things to do in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city in Iceland with a population of around 120,000. It sits on the southern shore of Faxa Bay and is an excellent destination for a short break or long weekend from the UK.

The main international airport is Keflavik with is 50Km from the capital but is easily reached in 40/50 minutes by a frequent airport coach service. Indeed many travellers use Reykjavik as a stop over destination on flights between Europe and North America.

Compared with many European capitals Reykjavik is not only small but relatively compact which makes it a very walkable city if you want to avoid using public transport. It is also quite low rise, with very few really tall buildings, which gives it a big sky feel. Many of the buildings, especially in the old town, are characterful and colourful. At times you forget you are in a capital city and that’s how it should be, it make sit an excellent place to visit.

Just because its small doesn’t mean that there isn’t a lot to see and do. I spent a full day here and still had much left too see and do that I’m already thinking about another trip back.

Hallgrimskirkja. This iconic Icelandic church is visible for miles around, standing tall in the city. It was designed to resemble volcanic lava flow and took just over 40 years to build. You can take a lift to the top of the tower for stunning views of the city.

Parliament House. The Icelandic parliament is called the Albingi and is the oldest parliament in the world, dating back to 930. Originally held at Thingvellir, some 30 miles east of Reykjavik, it has been housed in this building since 1881.

The Sun Voyager. This sculpture, by Jon Gunnar Arnason, of a Viking ship is located on the waterfront close to the city centre. Its location is perfect set as it is with water and mountains framing its structure. There is some debate as to its true meaning but you cannot deny that it is a stunning piece of work that always has something different to offer as it catches the light at different times of day.

Harpa. Located close to the Sun Voyager, Harpa is a concert hall and conference centre which opened in 2011. Its design is very modern and futuristic and quite a contrast to some of the more traditional buildings in the city. The building catches the sun and shimmers during the day and its exterior is illuminated at night. It is possible to take a tour of the building and there are also cafés and restaurants.

The Settlement Exhibition. A fascinating excavation of a 10th century Viking longhouse discovered in 2001 is combined with modern multimedia displays which explain its construction and life at that time. Its an excellent way to spend an hour.

Reykjavik Museum of Photography. Located on the sixth floor of the City Library this small space plays host to exhibitions of the work of superb photographers. Well worth the very modest entry fee but do check what’s on first.

Have a hot dog. There are numerous outlets around the city selling hot dogs, a favourite snack of the locals. Baejarins Beztu cabins are said to do the best in town. They are very tasty, have them with everything on.

The Old Harbour. The old harbour of Reykjavik is in the process of regeneration and is a lovely place for a stroll. Not only does it afford some fantastic views and photo opportunities there are a growing number of cafés and restaurants. This is also the place to pick up whale watching and sea angling trips. It is also home to the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina, my base for three days.

Whales of Iceland. This consists of 23 man made, life size models of the various species of whale that can be found in Icelandic waters. It is quite remarkable and awe-inspiring to stand beneath, or alongside, some of these magnificent creatures of the ocean. A free audio guide is included with the entry fee and this is interesting and informative and takes you round the exhibition in around 3o minutes but you can pause and spend longer if you choose. The whole place is bathed in soft blue light and there is accompanying whale song. There is also a nice café and gift shop. Whales of Iceland website.

Aurora Reykjavik. This small exhibition gives a full explanation of why we see the Northern Lights and how best to capture them on film. There is also an interesting section detailing the significance of the display to the various cultures found in the Arctic. Best of all is the giant photo display of auroras captured at various Icelandic locations. There photography here is quite stunning and well worth the 30 or so minutes to view them all. A good little museum if you need to learn more about the aurora before you go to hopefully catch a display. Aurora Reykjavik website.

This is by no means a comprehensive list of things to do. I had to make decisions because I only had one free day in the city. You could easily spend 2 or 3 days here.

Visiting Iceland in Winter

Having just returned from a short trip to Iceland I can honestly say that I was blown away by the country and am already thinking about when to return for a longer, more comprehensive visit. Summer tourism to Iceland is well established but visits in the winter are relatively new, six years ago there were very few winter visitors. Winter is an excellent time to visit, the landscapes are absolutely stunning, covered with snow and so photogenic. There is also a much greater chance of seeing the Northern Lights.

The days are short. Reykjavik is the most northern capital city in the world and its latitude (64 degrees North), means that in the winter there is a not a great deal of daylight. This doesn’t mean however that there is 24 hours of darkness at any time. Even on the shortest day there are just over 4 hours of daylight, with the sun rising at 11.22am. By the end of January this has increased to around 7 hours. The pace of the day is different, you soon adapt and become much more organised in getting out and about.

It can be cold. It is called Iceland after all. During my visit the temperature was around -6 Celsius with a wind chill down to -12. If you have the right clothing it is perfectly manageable. Make sure you pack appropriately, the temperature won’t necessarily be that low but if you are prepared its much less of a problem. Essentials are waterproof walking shoes/boots with a good tread, it can be snowy and slushy. A wind proof jacket and wind proof thermal gloves. I used the gloves that I use when cycling and they were perfectly adequate. Layering is always a good idea and try to start with a good thermal base layer, I use a merino wool thermal base layer and would recommend them wholeheartedly. Don’t forget a hat and scarf big enough to wrap round your face to protect from the wind. You can of course buy many of these things while you are there but you may find them much more expensive than at home.

You have a better chance to see The Northern Lights. The short days of winter mean that you may get to see the Northern Lights. Of course there is no guarantee, viewings depend on a number of factors such as cloud cover, solar activity and the absence of background light. Trips are available from Reykjavik which run on days when conditions are deemed to be favourable. They usually go to Thingvellir national park, about a 45 minute drive out of the city to an area with no light pollution. You may even be able to book on a subsequent evening if you were unlucky and there was no activity. Reykjavik Excursions run trips at 19.30 and 21.00 each day. The guided tour lasts for 3 hours and costs 4999 ISK.

The weather can be changeable. There had been heavy snow in Reykjavik in the days before I arrived and although main routes were clear side streets were not. Driving in Iceland in the winter requires care, attention and forward planning. Hire cars should be fitted with winter snow tyres to aid traction in snowy and icy conditions. It is possible to visit Reykjavik and do coach tours including around The Golden Circle without the need for car hire. There is also an excellent coach service which links Keflavik Airport with the capital.

There are a couple of websites that can help with road conditions in the country. Safetravel.is covers all aspects of travel in the country as well as giving weather and road reports. Road.is details road conditions around the country and even has webcams showing junctions and stretches of major roads so you can judge for yourself what conditions are like. The weather can change quickly and it is always a good idea to get an up to date weather forecast before heading out. The Icelandic Met Office is the place to look for the latest report.

It’s quieter. Although winter tourism is growing it is still far behind that in the summer. As a result tourist attractions are much quieter and restaurants less busy. Make the best of it while you can. Winter is glorious in Iceland and you won’t be disappointed, the snowy landscapes are absolutely magical.

15 Things to do in Liverpool

Liverpool has so much to offer the visitor and it is easy to see why it is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination. The city has a rich heritage and visitors will not be short of things to see or do. In this post I examine the tourist attractions in and around the city centre, most of which are within walking distance of each other.

Take a Ferry Across The Mersey. There has been a ferry crossing the River Mersey for over 800 years and the peak they were carrying millions of mainly commuters a year. Those days are long gone but the ferry does still run a commuter service in the morning and late afternoon but for the rest of the day it offers river cruises starting from 10am. Local band Gerry and the Pacemakers immortalised the crossing in their 1964 hit single Ferry Cross The Mersey.

The Waterfront at Pier Head. The Liverpool waterfront is world famous and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Consisting of the three graces, The Royal Liver Building, The Cunard Building and The Port of Liverpool Building, it is an imposing and magnificent site. One can only wonder how Liverpool sailors must have felt entering The Mersey after months at sea to be greeted by such iconic landmarks.

The Museum of Liverpool. Telling the story of Liverpool and its people its a great way to get to know some of the history of the city that isn’t always covered in the travel guides. Currently housing the John and Yoko Lennon Double Fantasy exhibition until 22nd April 2019.

The Royal Albert Dock. When it was built in 1846 it revolutionised dockside wharehouse design. It was the first of its type to contain no wooden timbers as part of its structure thus reducing the risk of catastrophic fires. The dock was one of the first regeneration projects in the city in the 1980s and it quickly became a tourist destination with its numerous cafés, shops and restaurants. Today it is also home to some of the cities best museums.

The Merseyside Maritime Museum. A museum dedicated to the historical importance of the sea to the city. Not only was it a major shipping port but it was also the point of embarkation for those seeking a new life overseas.. There is much to admire here including The Titanic and Liverpool exhibition which tells the story of the close association between the two.

Tate Liverpool. Located in the Albert Dock it is the home of modern and contemporary art. Since it opened in 1988 it has hosted many exhibitions of internationally renowned artists. It is always worth checking what’s on at the Tate when in the city. The galleries afford some excellent view over the river Mersey.

The Beatles Story. You cannot come to Liverpool and not do something Beatles related while here. There is much to see in and around the city and this is a good place to start for those that want to find out more about the history of “four lads that shook the world” back in the 1960s. See a recreation of the Cavern Club to experience what it was like back in those heady days.

Find Liverpools Musical Statues. If The Beatles Story has whet your appetite then why not seek out the musical statues around the city that celebrate Liverpool’s music history. as well as The Beatles you can discover Billy Fury, Cilla Black and Ken Dodd. You can even have a photo taken sat alongside Eleanor Rigby.

Mathew Street and The Cavern. No visit to Liverpool would be complete without a visit to Mathew Street, home of the Cavern Club. There is a lot packed in to to such a short street including statues, the wall of fame and the site of Erics club which did much for the local bands that came after The Beatles such as Echo & the Bunneymen and The Teardrop Explodes. You can visit the Cavern and catch some live music, sadly it’s not the original but has been lovingly reconstructed. There are often buskers performing in the street, Beatles songs naturally.

Bold Street. There are plenty of shopping opportunities in Liverpool including the huge Liverpool One complex. If, however, you are looking for something a little different then head to Bold Street in the Ropewalks area of the city. Here you will find many independent retailers, cafés and restaurants. It is fast becoming the beating heart of the city.

Liverpool Cathedrals. There aren’t many cities that can boast two impressive cathedrals. Liverpool can and they are separated by the appropriately named Hope Street. They couldn’t be anymore different. The Anglican Cathedral, built in the Gothic style took over seventy years to build. The Metropolitan Cathedral, known affectionately as “Paddy’s Wigwam” by the Liverpudlians, was opened in 1967.

Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms. Conveniently located half way along Hope Street it is a good place for a refreshment break while in this part of town. Don’t let the name fool you, the Phil is a pub. It was here that Paul McCartney made a surprise appearance as part of the filming of Carpool Karaoke with James Corden.Perhaps best known for ornate gents toilets, made from rose coloured marble. They are grade 1 listed such is their importance, a higher grading than the building in which they are housed.

The Bombed Out Church. The church of St Luke as it is officially know is located on the corner of Leece Street and Berry Street. The church was hit by an incendiary bomb on 6th May 1941, destroying all but the retaining walls. It was left as a memorial to those that died in the Liverpool Blitz.

Chinatown. A short walk along Berry Street from St Lukes and you enter Chinatown, home to the oldest Chinese community in Europe.There are records showing that Chinese immigrants were here as long ago as 1834 and grew businesses including restaurants and supermarkets. The arch at the top of Nelson Street was opened on Chinese New Year in 2000 and it is a magnificent structure, built by craftsmen from Shanghai.

Eat Scouse. Scouse was originally the food of the workers and seafarers of Liverpool but can still be found today in some of the city’s pubs, café and restaurants. Made from either beef or lamb along with vegetables it is a heartwarming stew, ideal to power you through sightseeing. Blind Scouse doesn’t have any meat in it. The exact recipe varies a little but don’t suggest something new, a recent suggestion of adding parsnips didnt go down very well with connoisseurs. The Ship and Mite on Dale Street and Maggie Mays Cafe on Bold Street are just two places that you can try it as it should be made.