The Daintree Rainforest

The Daintree Rainforest in Northern Queensland is the oldest tropical rainforest in the world. It is home to many hundreds of species of animals and plants, some of which exist only here. As a result it is one of the most complex rainforest ecosystems in the world.

Just a two hour drive from Cairns, or one hour from Port Douglas, you pass field upon field of sugar cane before you arrive in a world that is far, far removed from the hustle and bustle of modern life. You really are stepping back in time, estimates put its age at 180 million years, compare that with the Amazonian Rainforest which is a mere 55 million years old. Its hot and humid but you kind of expect that in a tropical rainforest. Its green, deep, concentrated green, there an awful lot of photosynthesis going on here. The rainforest has a damp, earthy, musty smell there is a sweetness and perfume to it. Together there is an assault on the senses.

The age of the rainforest can be seen from some of the plants that grow here. The Idiot Fruit, or Idiospermum australiense to give it its scientific name,  is sometimes referred to as the green dinosaur because of its age. Rediscovered in the Daintree in only the 1970s this tree grows nowhere else in the world. Fossil evidence indicates that it has been around for 120 million years with its flowers little changed over that time. Its fruit, which is highly poisonous, is large and contains the single largest seed found anywhere in Australia. A true living fossil and a good example of the kind rare plant found here.

The Daintree River rises in the rainforest and flows for 140Km before reaching the Coral Sea. The river has become a tourist attraction with cruises (Daintree River Cruises) to see the plants and animals living there. The number one on the list to see is the saltwater crocodile, the most aggressive of all crocodile species.

At the time of our visit the river had been in flood following a tropical cyclone. This brings a lot of cold water into the river system and the crocodiles don’t really like cold water as they need to maintain their body temperature at around 30 degrees Celsius. As a consequence they spend more time basking on the banks among the mangroves where they’re incredibly well camouflaged and difficult to spot. This is where the guide comes in as they have so much experience, while they cannot guarantee you a spot they will do their very best.

The crocodile above is well hidden (centre) and blends with the muddy bank. it was completely unfazed by our presence as it warmed itself in the morning sun. It was the largest we saw at about 4 feet in length.

 

This crocodile is a juvenile about 3-4 years old and probably still close to its mother and under her protection. Here it is basking on a fallen branch and not very active.

The mangroves in the Daintree are diverse with over 30 species found in the area. Many are salt tolerant and can either filter the salt out or have special salt glands.

There are no bridges across the Daintree River. If you want to head north further into the rainforest and visit Cape Tribulation then you must use the Daintree ferry. It is a cable operated ferry and the crossing takes only 5 minutes but there is a toll to be paid which varies depending on the size of the vehicle but is currently $28 return for a car.

Cape Tribulation is the point where the tropical rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. The headland was named by James Cook when his ship The Endeavour ran aground on the Barrier Reef and needed to be repaired. The headland encloses a superb beach. the area has probably not changed very much since Cook and his crew were here in 1770.

 

Katu Tjuta

Katu Tjuta is a sandstone rock formation that is 25Km to the east of Uluru. It consists of 36 domes. They are also known as The Olgas after the tallest dome which is called Mount Olga.

Like its near neighbour Uluru it has been estimated to be around 600 million years old and is a sacred place to a the local indigenous communities.

The Walpa Gorge walk is a short 2.6Km walk between two of the largest domes of  Katu Tjuta. The path is well defined and it is a relatively easy walk, taking about an hour in total for the round trip. Entering the gorge you are immediately struck by the enormity of the domes on either side of you. The walls are pitted and sheer in places and create dark shadows. It is only when you get close up to these natural structures that you realised just how big they actually are.

Many plants grow in the gorge some of which are very rare. The gorge ends with a small pool which at certain times of year feeds a small creek running out of the gorge. It is this water, together with shade form the hot desert sun, that makes the gorge such an important refuge.

A worthy walk, especially early in the morning before it becomes too hot, in a very quiet and peaceful place. There may well be other tourists around but there won’t be many, certainly nothing like the numbers at nearby Uluru.

Australia’s Red Centre

As you land at Ayers Rock airport two things  strike you. The first is that the red centre really is red, a deep red that looks like it has been concentrated over time as it bakes in the desert sun. The second, and more surprising, is that it is also green. Despite the low rainfall and high temperatures some species of plant actually appear to thrive here. Whereas there is  only a few shades of red the greens come in all shades.

There are over 400 species of plants in the area around Uluru and Kata Tjuta alone If you include the whole of the red centre of Australia the number is in the thousands. These plants are important to the indigenous aboriginal people who have used them as food, medicine, for making weapons and clothing. Some plants will grow and flower only following desert rain, others are very well adapted to surviving in the hot and dry climate. The following are just three examples of plants found around Uluru and Kings Canyon that demonstrate just how well adapted they are.

Spinifex

A significant contributor to the overall greeness of the desert is spinifex. Spinifex is a grass, a highly adapted grass, that can survive the exceptionally dry conditions. It is incredibly deep rooted which is important in its search for the water table and these roots also spread out laterally. This lateral growth gives stability as the grass helps bind the sandy earth and prevents erosion.

Clumps of spinifex are very common. if you are unlucky to walk through them the leaves are sharp yet they provide shelter for small desert marsupials. As the grass ages the centre dies to leave a ring.

The Desert Oak

The Desert Oak is very common in the area around Uluru. As you move further and further away it gradually disappears from the landscape.

When young it consists of a single stem with little side branching, Its leaves are modified to prevent water loss and it has a very slow growth rate. Much of its growth is going on below ground as the roots grow and spread in search of water. Once the roots reach the water table and there is a sufficient supply of water the tree will begin to produce side branches. The Desert Oak is able to cope with bushfires, only its foliage will burn, the trunk is relatively fire resistant.

Ghost Gum

Eucalyptus trees are very common throughout Australia where they are also known as gum  trees. One species of gum highly adapted for life in an arid climate is the Ghost Gum. So called because its trunk and branches are ghostly white in appearance

In times of severe water shortage the tree can selectively kill off branches to conserve water. As the tree grows these appear black and without any foliage giving the tree a kind of mosaic appearance