New Zealand’s Flora and Fauna

I must confess to being rather ignorant about the flora and fauna of New Zealand before arriving here however it didn’t take very long before we began to realise what a unique country this is.

To understand the uniqueness of the country plants and animals you must first know something about its formation. The supercontinent of Gondawana existed over 500 million years ago and it started to separate around 180 million years ago. This break up formed the parts of the world we today know as Australia, Antarctica, Africa, South America, India and New Zealand. New Zealand became isolated around 90 million years ago and it has been out there on its own ever since. As a result it does not have any native land mammals with the exception of a couple of species of bat. Indeed the first humans did not arrive in New Zealand until the thirteenth century with the arrival of explorers from Polynesia.

Approximately 65 million years ago there was a mass extinction event that wiped out 75% of the plants and animal species on earth, including the dinosaurs. The removal of top predators meant that small mammals could evolve rapidly to fill all the newly created empty habitats. The age of the mammals had begun but New Zealands isolation meant that they couldn’t get there. All land mammals in New Zealand today were introduced by humans. In the absence of native mammals the birds flourished. With no natural predators it didn’t matter if the birds could fly or not so gradually, over time, many lost the ability to fly. Much of the bird population was flightless and ground dwelling.

Human settlers in New Zealand began introducing mammals. Cattle, sheep and goats were highly successful and profitable but other introductions were less so. in 1857 1000 Australian possum were brought to the country for their pelts. By the 1980s their numbers were estimated at around 70 million and the environmental effects disastrous. Possums are carriers of TB .They also grazed on native plants which had no adaptations to grazing and they also ate the eggs and chicks of flightless birds which could not escape them. Stoats and ferrets which were. introduced to try and control rabbits also added to the problem. Now birdsong and native birds in the forests are rare. Control measures are now in place to reduce numbers and there has been some success but there is still a long way to go. Native birds are being reintroduced into areas of forest which have been declared predator free.

Isolation has meant that New Zealand has developed a unique native flora. Most native trees are evergreens, species of deciduous trees having been introduced by settlers. There is a relatively high number of species of fern for a temperate climate. As you drive the west coast rainforests you can not fail to be impressed by the number of ferns and their size. Indeed New Zealand national sports teams have the silver fern as their emblem. Mosses an liverworts also abound. Many plants are larger than similar forms elsewhere. Forests are dense with a large under canopy, it is relatively easy to get lost if you stray from a track in such areas. Some of the forests are old and it is easy to see where the inspiration for the Ents in Peter Jacksons Lord of the Rings came from.

 

 

Lake Wanaka

Wanaka is the last stop before Queenstown and sits on the southern end of Lake Wanaka. Like all the southern islands glacial lakes it is big, deep and cold. It is 42km long (26 miles) and at its widest point is 10km across. Its average depth is around 300m. It is one big lake! Photographs can’t really do it justice but here are two to try.

You wait Ages for a Glacier…

You wait ages for a glacier and then two come along together. Glacier country, on the route to Queensland down the western side of the South Island, gives you two easy reachable glaciers within 22km of each other. These are the Franz Josef Glacier and the Fox Glacier.

The Franz Josef Glacier is about 5km from the township of Franz Josef which has largely grown to service tourism of the glaciers and the surrounding area. There is ample free parking and then a 45 minute walk to the closest viewing point which is at 750m. This does vary with local conditions, the walk to view the glacier involves crossing two streams as you walk through a largely dry river bed. If these streams are carrying a large volume of water they obviously can not be crossed safely.

The glacier is approximately 12km in length and the snowfield that feeds it covers 29 square kilometres and gets 16m of snow per year. The glacier flows at a rate of 1.5m per day. Thats a fast moving river of ice!  In actual fact the glacier itself has been in retreat since 2008 and this has been at a relatively fast rate and is attributed to global warming.

The melt water from the glacier produces a cloudy, fast flowing river which has a grey blue appearance due to the mineral mica suspended in the water.

Nearby Fox Glacier is similar in length and is fed by four glaciers in the high Southern Alps. Like Franz Josef it is currently in retreat. It is unusual because it is one of very few glaciers that terminate in temperate rainforest. When we visited the path leading to a close up view of the terminal face of the glacier was closed to clear a landslip so the only option was view from a gap in the rainforest.

Fox is regarded by some as being the the more appealing of the two glaciers and this might be because Fox appears to attract less tourists. As the walkway was closed I don’t think we could get close enough to judge