La Cité du Vin

In 2009 Alain Juppé, the mayor of Bordeaux, proposed that the city built a museum to celebrate the importance of wine to the city and the surrounding region. Furthermore it would also show how wine was important to heritage and culture of peoples around the world. It would be a wine museum like no other.

In 2011 an industrial site by the river and close to the district of Chartrons, where the city’s wine merchants had their cellars, was purchased. Construction began in 2012 and the building was finally open to the public on 1st June 2016. The total cost of the project was 94 million euros.

The design was by means of a competition which was eventually one by a firm of Parisian architects, chosen from a shortlist of five. To many it resembles a decanter but the winning design was not intended to be figurative. Rather the design was to have a roundness and flexibility to reflect the nearby River Garonne. However you look at it the building is stunning and a real contrast to the more formal style of architecture seen in and around the city. Over two thousand aluminium panels have been used to create the swirling base and 940 glass panels in the tower. The public areas are constructed of 524 laminated wooden arches, used to create the impression that you are inside a barrel as you walk through the exhibits.

The easiest way of getting to the museum is by tram. Line B will take you from central Bordeaux to the museum for less than 2 euros. The trams are modern, clean, comfortable and a great way to get around the city. Timing your visit may seriously affect the experience. In winter there may be 300-500 visitors per day but this can rise to 2000=3000 on weekends at the height of summer. You can avoid queues for tickets by purchasing online, a sensible plan if it looks like it might be busy. Whatever the season early in the day is a good time to begin your visit as you can easily spend all day here. On the day of our visit on a weekday in early October the museum was relatively quiet.

The ground floor is devoted to ticketing and cloakroom but there its also a shop, a rather  impressive wine cave and a small brasserie serving some very nice food indeed. It makes an excellent spot for lunch.

The first floor covers workshop space and temporary exhibitions. You can book a wine workshop when buying general admission and they are delivered in English as well as French. There is also a rather fine library and reading room which is open to everyone and the Thomas Jefferson auditorium for larger meetings and events.

It is on the second floor where you will find the permanent exhibition. This consists of 19 different themed areas which you can plan your own route through. The admission price includes an audio guide which is available in eight different languages. Sensors on the exhibits trigger the relevant piece of audio for your own immersive experience.  The exhibition is interactive and multi sensory. A lot of thought has gone into giving you useful information in a fun and engaging way. I particularly enjoyed the video walls showing aerial footage of the worlds major wine regions, the photography here was stunning. There is a series of bell jars from which you can explore the scents associated with wine, an in-depth interactive explanation of cultivating vines and of course an area devoted to the wines of Bordeaux. The best thing about the permanent exhibition is that there is something for everyone, it appeals to all ages and levels of interest in the world of wine.

To end your visit your ticket also includes a wine tasting in the Belvedere Bar at the top of the tower, which also gives superb panoramic views of the surrounding area. You can choose your tasting sample from the sixteen or so wines on offer. The roof of the bar has been constructed from 3800 litre glass bottles and makes quite an impressive sight.

You can take your glass of wine out onto the viewing platform to enjoy the view.

A perfect ending to a great day at a superb museum. The city can be justifiably proud of such a magnificent attraction.

 

Bunch Wine Bar September Tasting

After a break over the summer it’s back to Bunch Wine Bar in Liverpool for a tasting of wines specially chosen by co-owner Lara in honour of her birthday.

A wet and rather wild night in Liverpool marked the start of autumn and many could be forgiven for having a night in front of the television. As usual the tasting was held downstairs and there were no spare places as far as I could tell. As usual the wines were well chosen and served at an appropriate temperature. There is always something interesting to try at these tastings which is why I enjoy them so much. The surroundings are ideal for a small, intimate tasting where all are free to contribute questions or comments if they so desire.  These tastings are fun which is exactly what drinking wine should be.

Festejar. Pétillant Naturel. Patrick Boujou. Auvergne. – From the south eastern edge of the Loire Valley, this delicate rosé is made from 100% Gamay. Light red in appearance with a slight haze. Quite closed on the nose but the palate is strawberry, cherry and some slight floral notes. The carbonation is really gentle giving an almost creamy texture to the wine, strawberry and cream, what’s not to like! A slight savouriness on the finish. Very nice.

Ortega. Tillingham. Peasmarsh, East Sussex. 2017 – Made from 100% Ortega, a grape variety well suited to the English climate as it is quite hardy and not as susceptible to frost damage as some other varieties. As with many natural wines, production is quite small with only 1000 bottles made in 2017. Barrel fermented, no fining or filtration and only low sulphur dioxide levels ensure that the purity of the fruit is preserved in this lovely, very drinkable wine. The aroma is intense, grapey, elderflower and florals. The palate is dry and the acidity is quite high but is balanced by lovely stone fruits. The texture is quite creamy and there is a touch of spice on the finish.

Fist of Fancy. Chardonnay. Kyle Dunn. Swartland. South Africa. 2016 – I was unsure about this wine at first but with plenty of aeration it opened out to be a very nice wine indeed and great value for money. Lemon citrus and a smokey minerality are key here along with a hint of biscuity vanilla. Shows lovely balance and a great chardonnay for all those that don’t like chardonnay!

El Bandito Testalonga. Swartland. South Africa. 2016 – made from 100% Chenin Blanc which has had 10 day skin contact to produce an orange wine that shows just how subtle this style of wine can be. There are oranges, stone fruit and some light caramel here. The wine is dry with a nice finish. A wine for food, very nice.

Baby Bandito. Follow Your Dreams. (Magnum). Testalonga. Swartland. South Africa. 2017 – Made from 100% Carignan. A wine for everyone to drink when they need reminding what life is all about! Nose of red fruits and a touch of wild herbs. The palate is dry, red berry fruits, cherry, some cola and an olive savouriness. A well made wine that is worthy of some serious attention.

Chatrons de Garde. Andrea Calek. Ardèche. France. 2014. – the back story of Andrea Calek makes for interesting reading and his wines make for some interesting drinking if this example is anything to go by. Aromas of dark berry fruits, cola, liquorice and a touch of farmyard! There is some real character here. The palate is dry and the dark fruits are smokey, there is a touch of pepper but it is very subtle. Tannins are a little dry. A great food wine but having said that I enjoyed it on its own.

Rutz Wine Bar

Restaurant Rutz is one of Berlin’s seven two star Michelin restaurants with chef Marco Müller at the helm. Downstairs from the restaurant is a wine bar which itself holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Located on Chausseestraße in Berlin’s central district it is everything you would want from a wine bar. Wine takes centre stage with bottles in a display filling a whole wall. The wine list is excellent and naturally German wines feature heavily, there is a good choice of wines by the glass and the staff are very knowledgeable and helpful.

The menu offers creative interpretations of traditional, regional dishes. As  you would expect the cooking is first class and service is attentive without being overbearing.  We decided to try a few wines by the glass rather than buy a bottle.

Roasted Berlin Black Pudding with vegetables
Pork Knuckle, Potato – sauerkraut and carrot
Prignitz Chicken, roasted onions with mashed potato and vegetables.

The wines

Georg Breuer Estate Rauenthal 2016. Rheingau – Wonderful aromas of lime with hints of lemon and petrol. Dry with great balance, lime and fresh zingy acidity, slight spritz. A nice lingering finish.

Immich – Batterieberg Eschenburg Riesling 2011. Mosel – Lime green in appearance, crystal clear and bright. Nose is intensely petrol and lime with a slight herby note. Palate is fuller, medium bodied. A really nice, elegant wine.

Vino Verde. Muros de Melgaço. Alvarinho. 2017 – Aromas of lime and stone fruits. Nice weight and balance with some real character and a saline minerality. A long, long finish. This really is very good.

Haart. Goldtropfchen. Spaltete. 2013. Mosel – Nose is restrained -lime, petrol. Palate shows excellent balance of sweetness and acidity. Flavours of lime, lemon and touch of honey spice.

Domaine de l’Horizon. Mar i Montanya. Cotes Catalanes. 2016 – Cherry red and youthful. Nose is fresh fruits; raspberry and strawberry with a touch of cherry.  Palate is light with lovely red berry fruits, a  hint of violets and a lovely savoury finish.