Category: Wine

Katz Orange

Katz Orange is a restaurant in central Berlin which is well worth a visit, not only for the quality of the cooking but also for a really good wine list.

Located in a former brewery, built in 1893, and set back from the road in a courtyard, the setting is fantastic. In warm weather there are tables arranged outside, covered by large parasols, which, if the weather permits, should be your choice of seating. The interior of the restaurant is arranged over two floors and is warm and inviting, creating a good atmosphere for a relaxed evening. So dining either inside or outside it’s a win win!

The menu is short and well focused, offering seven or so choices for both appetisers and mains. There are house specialities such as Duroc pork, which has been cooked for 12 hours at low temperature to create a wonderfully tender and flavoursome piece of meat. This is only available for two to share and my photograph doesn’t do it justice, it was superb.

Heirloom tomatoes with date vinegar, pine nuts and croutons
Ceviche of Rottstock Sea Trout with melon and dill
Duroc pork with pickled cauliflower, red and fried onions.

Portions are generous and we didn’t feel that dessert was necessary but there is an interesting choice for those that want it including white chocolate cheesecake and cherry clafoutis.

The wine list here is very good and this always makes choosing difficult but staff are very helpful and more than willing to spend time discussing the possible options. In the end we chose Testalonga El Bandito Skin Contact Orange Wine 2016 from South Africa. Made from Chenin Blanc grapes which the juice has a shortish period of  contact with the skins during vinification to produce a wine of real character. Stone fruits and some savoury spice abound in a wine that is dry and well balanced.

 

Katz Orange, Bergstraße 22, 10115, Berlin.

Open daily but evenings only from 6pm

Website is here

Nordbahnof (S-bahn S1, S2, S25, S26) or Rosenthaler Platz (U-Bahn U8) are the closest public transport train lines.

Chef’s Table Chester

Music Hall Passage is a narrow alley that connects Northgate Street to St. Werburg Street in Chester and can be used as a short cut from the city centre to the Cathehdral. However if you didn’t know it was there you could easily walk past the entrance on Northgate Street. This would be a shame because Music Hall Passage is home to a very fine restaurant indeed. The Chef’s Table is only small with 30 covers and a tiny kitchen from which they produce some very acceptable food indeed.

We visited at lunchtime on a weekday and were able to get a table without a prior reservation but this might not necessarily be the cast in the evening or at weekends. The lunch menu offers 2 courses for £18 or 3 for £22 which is very good value indeed for the quality on offer. Portions were good sized and we didn’t feel that we needed any side dishes for our particular choices. The menu is comprehensive with a good range of dishes, including vegan options. Ingredients are sourced locally as far as is possible.

Slow cooked octopus with chorizo, sweetcorn summer minestrone and haricot beans
Mushroom and avocado on toasted focaccia and served with red onion chutney
Roast stonebass, smoked haddock, Cheshire saffron risotto and a soft poached egg.

The stonebass was the dish of the day, beautiful fish and rich, creamy risotto.

The wine list is short but offers adequate choice to accompany the dishes on offer. We chose a glass of Gran Cerdo Blanco. Gonzalo Grijalba. Unfortunately I forgot to record the vintage but the 2017 is currently available in stores. This is a natural, organic wine with aromas of apricot, peach  and a lovely floral component that make for a very appealing wine. The palate is medium bodied with lovely balance and lingering flavours of stone fruit. It accompanied the stonebass perfectly and is great value for money.

A very nice lunch. I am sure a return visit is likely.

Wine Round Up 2

A quick, brief round up of some of the more enjoyable wines drunk in the last month or so.

Alexandre Bain. La Levée 2015. Tracy sur Loire. France. Sauvignon Blanc but not as you may know it. About as far from the zingy New Zealand style, much loved by UK drinkers, as you can get. Fully biodynamic, the wines of Alexandre Bain are a serious attempt to create wines that are a true expression of terroir in the absence of chemicals and too much interference. La Levée is rich with aromas of peach, apricot, orange and a touch of honey. The palate is dry, stone fruit, lime and apple. The finish is long. This really is excellent wine.

Delheim. Chenin Blanc. 2014. Stellenbosch. South Africa. Fermentation with wild yeasts followed by ageing on the lees has produced a wine of real character. Golden yellow, clear and bright in appearance. Aromas of tropical fruit, peach, honey and a slight smokiness. The palate has lovely balance, creamy but with refreshing acidity. There is a nuttiness with tropical fruits and lime. Very good.

Vasse Felix. Filius. Chardonnay. 2016. Margaret River. Western Australia. Everything Aussie chardonnay should be. Aromas of tropical fruit, lemon and vanilla. The palate is well balanced with a gentle buttery creaminess. The finish is lingering flavours of lemon and oaky vanilla. this is very good at the price.

Casa Ermelinda Freitas. Dona Ermelinda. Pamela. 2015. Portugal. From the Setubal region south of Lisbon this is a wine of real character. A blend of chardonnay with arinto, antão Vaz and fernãs pires. The wine is golden with aromas of stone fruit and lemon with  a hint of almond/marzipan. The palate is medium with stone fruit, lemon, buttery vanilla and lovely balancing acidity. This is very nice.

Gonzalez Byass. Leonor. Palo Cortado. Spain. I just love sherry and its relative unpopularity means that there are some great value wines out there. This is one such example. Amber/gold in appearance the nose is intense and inviting with nuttiness, toffee/caramel and leather. The palate is well balanced, smooth, intense and complex. A lovely lingering finish. Great stuff.

Domaine Serge et Bruno Sourdais. Le Logis de la Bouchardière. 2017. Chinon. Loire. France. A Loire valley red to enjoy. Youthful and vibrant in appearance and deep in colour. The nose is very fruity, raspberry, cherry and a touch of bramble. Palate is red fruits with earthy spice and a lovely lingering finish. Great value for money.

Altolandon. Mil Historias. Bobal. 2016. Manchuela. Spain. A certified organic wine. A blockbuster with ripe cherry fruit along with some blackcurrant, violets and a hint of spice. There is a freshness here that makes this very approachable. tannins are soft. Very drinkable and very nice.

Bodegas Muga. Prado Enea. Rioja Gran Reserva. 2005. Spain. Great depth of colour showing maturity at the rim. Aromas of black fruits, leather, herbs and vanilla. The palate is full, soft with black plummy fruit with hints of spice and pepper and vanilla. Tannins have integrated. Great balance and complexity. The finish is herby with warming peppery spice. Excellent.

Chateau de Fonbel. Saint Emilion Grand Cru. 2014. France. Good affordable claret can be a challenge to find but this is a nice example. Good depth of colour with a garnet rim. plummy black fruits, vanilla and hints of tobacco. The palate is medium bodied, soft, sweet plummy fruit with hints of spice and soft tannins. Not overly complex but drinking very well.

Castelnau de Suduiraut. Sauternes. 2010. France. The sweet wines of Sauternes can be excellent value for money and this example is no exception. The second wind of Chateau Suduiraut and made from younger vines it is a real show stopper. It’s rich and smoothed, packed with aromas and flavours of orange, apricot, honey and creme brulée. The sweetness is well balanced with acidity making this a wonderful wine and great value for money. Sauternes is not very fashionable at present, a great shame.