Chateau de Pennautier is located just 5Km from the medieval city of Carcassonne.and sits in the relatively new appellation of Cabardès. The current owners, Nicolas and Miren de Lorgeril, are tenth generation winemakers and took over the estate in 1987. They currently manage 102 hectares producing AOC Cabardès and 80 hectares producing vin de pays. The family also have estates in other Languedoc appelations. Vineyards are largely on the slopes of the nearby Black Mountains between 230-360m of elevation. Vineyards are planted to Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah.
Chateau de Pennautier is well geared up for visitors. There is a wine trail trough the property, daily cellar tours, wine tasting in the boutique and an excellent restaurant. Tours take place twice a day in the summer months but are very popular and should therefore be booked in advance. The restaurant, La Table du Chateau, is open for lunch and dinner every day in July and August but has restricted opening out of the main holiday months. It is therefore well worth checking opening hours on their website.
Wine tasting is available in the boutique between 10.00 -19.00 Monday to Saturday and 10.00 – 17.00 on a Sunday.
Petit Marquis de Pennautier. Vin de Pays d’Oc. 2018. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Chardonnay Fermented in stainless steel. Nose is aromatic and peachy. Dry and crisp with a lovely lime citrus finish.
Marquis de Pennautier. Terroir d’Altitude Chardonnay. 2015. Vin de Pays d’Oc. Fermented in oak for 3 weeks then aged in oak for 10 months. The nose is delightful, tropical, stone fruit, honey and vanilla. Nicely balanced with lovely fresh acidity backed with a buttery texture. Very nice indeed.
Chateau de Pennautier. Terroir d’Altitude. Cabardès. 2014. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Aged for one year in second season oak. Nose is very Bordeaux blend in nature with a savoury core. The palate is medium bodied with nice freshness. Very drinkable.
L’Esprit de Pennautier. Cabardès. 2015. A blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A good depth of colour showing hints of maturity at the rim. Plummy black fruit, tobacco with a hint of mint. Palate is round, rich and complex. Tannins are softening. Nicely balanced. Very good.
If I ever I was in South Kensington I would always try to make time to visit The Sampler on Thurloe Place. Sadly the store closed in 2017 but were soon to open south of the river in Putney and nearby Wimbledon. Neither store is as spacious but there is still a great range of wines and plenty of opportunities to taste from the Enomatic machines.
Navazos Niepoort White. 2016. Made from the Palomino grape with fermentation in stainless steel followed by ageing for 11 months in oak under natural flor. Not surprisingly it is very sherry like, dry, mineral and with a lovely freshness. It has a lingering finish. If you love sherry but want a little less alcohol this could do the job.
Chateau Lapuyade. Jurançon Sec. 2016. Lapuyade is a certified biodynamic estate and this fry white, made from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, is an absolute delight. Packed with citrus, stone fruit and a touch of caramel. Rich and with lovely balance. The finish is incredibly long. Fantastic value for money.
Novum Chardonnay. Marlborough. New Zealand. 2017. The amount of Chardonnay grown in Marlborough is minute compared to Sauvignon Blanc. This is rather good, Pale yellow in appearance with a delicate nose of citrus, stone fruit and a delightful floral note. The palate is dry with lovely balance and a fresh citrus finish.
Le Soula. La Maceration du Soula No. 16. A skin contact, orange wine made from a blend of Vermentino and Macabeu along with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Malvoisie du Roussillon. It is also a blend of six different vintages with 2016 being the largest component (30%). Light orange in appearance it is very dry but with lovely flavours of orange and spice and some significant tannin. A really unusual wine.
Scholium Project. 1MN. Bechtold Ranch. California. 2016 Bechtold Ranch is a Cinsault vineyard plated in 1870 on ungrafted rootstocks where it was originally known as Black Malvoisie. Light red in appearance and with a slight haze. Nose is wonderfully expressive with red fruits. Dry with soft berry fruit and a touch of floral perfume. Very dry on the finish.
Inconnu. Lalalu Cabernet Franc. California. 2017. Light with fragrant red fruits. This is an easy drinking wine which doesn’t disappoint. Drink young to enjoy it at its best.
Alpha Box & Dice Icona. Cabernet Sauvignon. McLaren Vale. Australia. 2015. Grapes were destemmed, crushed and left for two weeks on the skins. Following fermentation it was aged for 24 months in oak of which one third was new. Rich and opulent with lovely blackcurrant, chocolate and vanilla. Currently drinking very well. Jolly good stuff.
Covent Garden ranks among the top tourist destinations in London. It actually covers quite a large area but many visitors don’t ever go far beyond the famous piazza. Once the home of a fruit, vegetable and flower market the square is now bustling with shops, bars, restaurants and street performers. It can get very busy, especially at weekends, so not surprisingly the best time to visit if you don’t like the crowds is early morning while most people are still tucking in to the hotel buffet breakfast. This gives the best opportunity to savour the area and its buildings which include the Royal Opera House and St Pauls Church which is also known locally as the Actors Church.
Beyond the piazza there is so much more to enjoy, especially in the narrow streets in and around Seven Dials. It is such a lovely area to wander around with its eclectic mix of independent retailers, restaurants, coffee shops and bars. Here are some of my personal favourites in and around the Covent Garden area.
Monmouth Coffee (27 Monmouth Street). An institution in Seven Dials having opened as long ago as 1978 when they roasted beans in the basement and brewed coffee in the shop above. The roasting is now undertaken elsewhere but the coffee in the shop remains as good as ever. They take pride here in sourcing coffee from small independent growers around the world so there is always something new on offer. The only downside is that the shop is small with only a limited amount of seating but the coffee is so good no one really minds.
Neals Yard Dairy ( 17 Short’s Gardens). London has some great cheese shops and this is one of them. Specialising in mainly British and Irish cheeses it is a great place to come if you want to discover more about local products. They also offer courses but for those you will have to travel to their other outlet in Borough Market.
The Cross Keys (31 Endell Street). The demise of the great British pub has been well documented in recent years. If you want to a see an example of why they should be wholeheartedly supported and preserved look no further than the Cross Keys. The exterior is enticing enough in itself with its lush vegetation and floral hanging baskets. You could almost be excused for not being able to locate the door. Inside it has real character with plenty of pictures, instruments, mirrors and bric a brac. A real feast for the eyes. The beer is pretty good too.
10 Cases (16 Endell Street). Restaurant, shop, wine bar, there is something for everyone here. For me though its all about the wine. Not content to serve the same wines all the time the philosophy here is one variety and exploration. The wines change frequently, are always excellent and prices are reasonable compared to many similar establishments in central London. It does get quite busy as people leave work so getting in can sometimes be a challenge but it is well worth it.
Hawksmoor (11 Langley Street). Located in there basement of the former Watney-Combe brewery this is probably my favourite steak restaurant in the capital and is one that I return to time and again. Prices are not cheap but the quality is high and the cocktails excellent. They also have a very reasonable, if limited, pre and post theatre menu. Always advisable to book ahead here.
Stanfords (7 Mercer Walk). A presence in Covent Garden since 1853, and having recently moved from premises on Long Acre to its current location, this is the number one place for travellers. They have an incredible selection of travel, guides and maps downstairs that you will never be stuck for ideas for where your next destination should be. I love it in here and they also serve a nice line in coffee if you feel you need a little caffeine to help with the browsing and decision making.
Margot (45 Great Queen Street). I went here for an early dinner one evening recently and was very impressed. From the minute you walk in the door the welcome and service are excellent. This is a restaurant that I know I shall be visiting again. The Italian menu has such a good range of dishes that I found making a choice difficult, in the end I went with pasta and wasn’t disappointed as it was perfectly cooked. The wine list offers a good range of wines by the glass.
Rules (34-35 Maiden Lane). Rules can lay claim to be London’s oldest restaurant dating back to 1798. It specialises in traditional British food including a good selection of game. Upstairs is the cocktail bar which to me is one of London’s hidden gems. Unquestionably traditional it is a great place to start an evening even if not eating in the restaurant. The cocktails are wonderful and prepared and presented as they should be. Not cheap but well worth if for a special treat.
Polpo (6 Maiden Lane). Following a delightful negroni at Rules head across the street to Polpo for a selection of Venetian small plates of well crafted Italian food. The atmosphere here is casual, relaxed and informal and the food is always good and the bill won’t break the bank.
Champagne + Fromage (22 Wellington Street). An excellent selection of grower champagnes together with a menu that includes cheese and charcuterie boards, salads and baked cheeses. Buy by the glass or bottle you can’t go wrong here if you are a fan of champagne and who isn’t?