Algarve Cork Production

Cork is produced by a species of oak tree called Quercus suber, it grows well in the western Mediterranean where it favours the mild winters and plenty of sunshine. It grows wild in the Algarve and is not usually grown in plantations so you are likely to come across it in the mountains along with other useful trees such as olive, almond and carob. Portugal produces half the worlds cork, most of which is used to make stoppers for wine bottles. The best quality cork for stoppers is said to come from the Algarve and parts of the Alentejo.

Cork production has remained largely unchanged for centuries. The cork oak is not a fast growing tree so it must be at least 25 years old before the first harvest. This will be inferior cork and unsuitable for wine stoppers. Cork can then be stripped from the tree every nine years but it will be the third harvest before cork for stoppers is good enough. Following harvest the tree is painted with the year it was undertaken, 5 painted on the tree trunk signifies it was harvested in 2015 it therefore can’t be harvested again until 2024. Producing cork is a long, slow process.

Cork is initially only taken from the lower part of the trunk. As the tree gets older it can be taken from greater heights as the tree grows. Cutters work in teams of two, one climbs the tree and the other remains on the ground. They carefully strip away the cork layer using axes but extreme care is needed not to damage the living layer below as this is where the new cork will be regenerated from. Cork is usually removed in the summer months between May and July, this gives it the remainder of the summer to dry out.

Cork oaks can live for over 200 years and are protected by law. The law regulates the frequency of cutting at nine years and it is illegal to cut down a cork oak even if it is dead or diseased.

Once the summer is over the cork is sold to cork factories. The town of Sã0 Brás De Alportel is the epicentre of the cork processing industry in the Algarve. The industry has declined in the area and much of the finishing of cork products is now undertaken in northern Portugal. When the cork first arrives at the factory it is stored outside in stacks two pallets high. The curvature of the bark can clearly still be seen at this stage.

The cork is then taken into the factory and placed into a boiling water tank. This kills any insects and microbes that may be on or in the cork but also softens it so that it can be flattened. The boards are then stacked and left to dry.

The boards are then examined by eye for the quality of the cork. The person that does this is highly skilled and is looking for imperfections and patches of retained moisture. Strips are cut away until the best, most even cork is left. The offcuts are bagged and used to make cork tiles and insulation material. Nothing is wasted here.

Cork awaiting examination and grading
Cork which has been cut

Below shows two pieces of cork, the one on top is much higher quality for making bottle stoppers.

Today the cork is now sent to other factories to be turned into the final products which can be anything from the aforementioned bottle stoppers to floor tiles, thermal and acoustic insulation boards, clothing, shoes, handbags, purses and shopping bags. The amount of cork that is processed for use is staggering just from this one factory

Corks for bottles used to be punched out individually from strips of cork cut to the required depth

Stoppers used to be punched manually using a machine like this.

Today the demand for bottle stoppers is huge. Something like 80% of the 20 million bottles of wine produced each year are stoppered using cork. It is not surprising therefore that the process is now fully automated and can produce thousands of stoppers per minute.

A fascinating visit to one of the traditional industries of the Algarve.

Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux

I was at a recent Wine Society tasting of the wines of the Rhone valley when I came across the wines of Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux. I enjoyed the wines very much and loved the passion and philosophy behind the wine making that I thought I’d write a short post.

Clos des Cazaux is a family run domaine in Vacqueyras in the Southern Rhone. Established by Gabriel Archimbaud and first planted with vines in the nineteenth century it is run to day by Jean Michel and Frederic Vache. The estate now measures 48 hectares, with 25 in the Vacqueyras appellation. Annual production is around 1300,000 bottles.

Grape varieties are as you would expect for the southern Rhone. For the red wines it is principally Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre. For whites it is primarily old vine Clairette along with some Rousanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier.

Everything here is done with respect to the land and environment. Biodiversity is encouraged by retaining hedges and trees around the property. Soil health is important and respected using natural composts and products to encourage the development of a healthy microflora in the soil. In the vineyard there is no mechanisation, everything is done by hand including all harvesting. In the winery fermentation is temperature controlled and uses only wild, indigenous yeasts.Maturation is in stainless steel or concrete for at least 18 months. This allows the wines to undergo natural clarification thus eliminating the need for fining and resulting in only a light filtration. Oak ageing for between 12 and 30 months is used only for those wines judged to be capable of the greatest ageing.

Take a look at their website, it gives a good, detailed explanation of their philosophy and wines. There are also some wonderful photographs which make you just want to visit and see the place for yourself.

Les Clefs d’Or. Vacqueyras Blanc. 2016. You don’t tend to see a lot of white Vacqueyras around but at Domaine Le Clos de Cazaux it is a really important part of their portfolio thanks to some old Cairette vines. Made from 70% Clairette and 30% Rousanne with no malolactic fermentation. This wine has a lovely floral, citrus nose and is nicely balanced with a good finish. very nice.

Vieilles Vignes. Vacqueyras Blanc 2016 (Magnum). 50% Clairette, 30% Rousanne and 20% Grenache Blanc. This wine has lovely texture and balance with lemon citrus and a toasty nuttiness. Reminds me of good white Burgundy. An excellent glass of wine.

Wine Society’s Exhibition Vacqueyras. 2016. This has bags of plums and cherry fruit with lots of peppery spice. Excellent value.

Saint Roch. Vacqueyras. 2013. 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah. This is super drinkable Vacqueyras. Soft, round juicy with a touch of savoury pepper.

Grenat Noble. Vacqueyras. 2015. Spicey, peppery black fruit and plum with a lovely freshness and intensity. Drinking really well. Very good.

Otros Vinos Tasting

Otros Vinos means “other wines” in Spanish and it perfectly summarises what this small wine importer is all about. You are not going to find wines that are produced in large volumes or are on supermarket shelves. Otros Vinos imports natural wines from Spain. They champion small producers who work either organically or biodynamically, prefer minimum intervention in the winery and produce wines which have a real sense of place. They have been lovingly nurtured and are wines that have a story to tell. Bunch Natural Wine Bar in Liverpool hosted a tasting of a selection of wines from the Otros Vinos portfolio. It was a relaxed and enjoyable evening and what follows are my notes on some of the wines on show.

Blanco de Negra. Viña Enebro. 2017. From a 7 hectare estate in Murcia and made from Focallat. As the name suggests this is white wine made from red grapes. Production by whole bunch pressing, no skin contact, followed by fermentation in stainless steel. Fresh, clean and dry with stone fruits and a nutty almond character.

Mistras. Albarino. La Bodega de Constantina Sotelo. Rias Baixas. 2017. thirty year old vines from the Salnes Valley. Fermented in stainless steel and zero added sulphur. Clean, crisp, medium bodied with lovely saline minerality.

Bye Bye Garnacha. Vinya Ferrer. 2017. Seven day carbonic maceration in stainless steel. Zero sulphur. Production is tiny at only 800 bottles. Cherry and raspberry with earthy spices and a long finish. As it opens it there are dried fruits and an almost tawny port like character. At 15.2% alcohol one wonders if its not a touch too high?

Two wines from Marenas which farm six hectares of vines around Montilla in Cordoba. Cerro Encinas 2017. 100% Monastrell from a vineyard planted in 1998. A little closed on the nose but the palate shows some nice red fruits and spice. La Vélo 2017 is made from 100% Tempranillo from a high altitude vineyard of 3000 vines. Dark and brooding with some very pleasant black fruits and savoury spice, there are some tannins here but overall very nice.

Costador Terroirs  produce wine close to the city of Tarragona in north eastern Spain. La Fassina. Trepat. 2017. 100 year old Trepat vines grown at an altitude of 800m. Fermnted in amphora and then aged in a mix of old French oak barrels and amphora. This was probably my favourite wine on show. Well structured with spicey, peppery red berry fruits. Excellent. Metamorphika is from 50 year old bush vines grown at 500m above sea level. Fermented and aged in amphora. Nice red berry fruit with a touch of savoury spice. tannins are a little grippy but very nice.

Bodega Cauzon. Mozuelo. Made by Ramon Saavedra, a former chef, in Andalucia from Garnacha vines planted in 1999. Following a short period of maceration grapes are pressed and vinified naturally in stainless steel. The wines is unfiltered and unfined. Red fruits, spice and a touch of dried herbs make this a very easy drinking wine.

Diego Losada is the driving force behind Bodega La Senda, located in Bierzo in Castilla y Leon in the north west of Spain. El Aqueronte 2017 is made from 100% Mencia from a single vineyard of 60-90 year old vines at 555m elevation. Production is small at around 700 bottles. Fermentation is with wild yeasts and ageing is in chestnut barrels. The wine has lovely cherry fruit with a savoury, smokey backbone. Vindemiatrix 2017 is 80% Mencia, 10% Palomino and 10% Dona Blanca from seven different parcels of vines. A charming and very drinkable wine, juicy red fruit with a touch of spice.