A visit to d’Arenberg in the McLaren Vale is like no other. Arriving at a cellar door anywhere in the world and you kind of know what to expect. There will be a tasting room, sometimes with a view over the vineyards, an opportunity to purchase some wine and maybe a few other souvenirs and the larger establishments may have a cafe or even a restaurant. Now don’t get me wrong d’Arenberg has all this but it also has more, much more and some of of it may just surprise you a little.
The Osborn family have been growing grapes in the McLaren Vale since 1912 and making their own estate wines since 1928. The name d’Arenberg was first used in the late 1950s when Francis d’Arenberg Osborn was in charge of the estate and renamed it after his mothers maiden name. Today the business is run by fourth generation Chester Osborn, a highly innovative winemaker and buisnessman, who has developed the estate to what you see today.
The estate is dominated by the d’Arenberg Cube, opened in 2017 and built to resemble a Rubik’s cube puzzle. Designed by Chester himself it was built to represent the puzzles presented to the winemaker in creating different wines. Built on five levels its where your visit begins and you should aim to spend at least a couple of hours here if you are to enjoy the full experience. The cube with tasting room on the fourth floor is usually open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm and entry is 15AD per person.
Your visit begins with the Alternative Realities Museum located on the ground floor. The tour of the museum is self guided but you can download an app to your phone to aid your experience.
The museum is a fascinating, if a slightly surreal experience and there are some excellent exhibits. The Aroma Room is particularly good and in my view better that the aroma experience in the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux. Take your time and enjoy the experience.
The first floor is given over to bathrooms and the kitchen which prepares food for the Cube Restaurant located on the third floor. The restaurant is normally open Wednesday to Sunday but is currently permanently closed
A additional charge gives you access to the Dali at d’Arenberg exhibition. Salvador Dali is regarded as one of the greatest artists of his generation. On display here are 25 bronze sculptures on loan from the Dali Universe in Switzerland. There are also art works from Charles Billich, Australia’s very own surrealist artist. Admission to the cube plus Dali exhibition is 25 AD and is well worth it.
The tasting room is located on the fourth floor and gives wonderful 360 degree views over the winery and vineyards, strategically placed viewing platforms ensure that you get the best views.
The tasting room is large enough to cater for private groups if you are looking for a special event with some friends. The general tasting counter is nicely proportioned with plenty of space for a large number of small groups.
The Wines
The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2019. From fruit grown in the nearby Adelaide Hills this Sauvignon is fresh, crisp and dry with some lovely lime citrus, a hint of gooseberry and a finish that lingers.
The Dry Dam Riesling 2019. Aromas of lemon, lime and pear is a crisp. clean wine. Slightly off dry in style to balance the acidity.
The Hermit Crab 2018. A blend of Viognier and Marsanne which has seen a small proportion fermented in old French oak. Peach and apricot stone fruits with nice texture.
The Money Spider 2019. 100% Roussanne grown in the McLaren Vale. A wine with lovely weight and balance.The are stone fruits, mango and a hint of warming ginger. the finish is baked apple and spice.
The Lucky Lizard Chardonnay 2017. Fruit from the Adelaide hills was fermented for around seven months in old French oak. The wine is lemon citrus and peach with subtle warming touch of vanilla. Lovely balance and a great finish of almond marzipan.
Stephanie the Gnome with Rose Tinted Glasses 2019. A blend of Sangiovese, Shiraz and Cinsault. Fruit undergoes ten days of carbonic maceration followed by fermentation in stainless steel. A vibrant pink in appearance. Strawberry is king here with masses of red fruit and a hint of dry herbs, crisp and dry.
Peppermint Paddock Chambourcin Graciano NV. Vibrant red/purple in appearance. Intense aroma of cherry. A gentle mousse with lovely fruit.
The Feral Fox Pinot Noir 2018. Cool climate Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills. Delicate cherry and spice aromas give way to a light palate and a nice finish.
d’Arry’s Original 2017. This wine was renamed d’Arry in honour of Francis d’Arenberg Osborn who did much to grow the company and was known to all as d’Arry. The wine is a blend of Shiraz and Grenache both grown in the McLaren Vale. After an initial period in open fermenters the wine is transferred to a mixture of new and old French oak to complete fermentation. the wine ages on lees and there is no fining or filtration. The wine is soft and round with lovely red fruits and a spicy/peppery finish. Good value for money.
The Sticks & Stones 2015. A Tempranillo blend also containing Grenache, Tinto Cão and Souzão. This is a big, bold wine bursting red and black fruits. Has the structure to last for a good few years.
The Cenosilicaphobic Cat 2013. Cenosilicaphobia is the fear of an empty glass, something I’m sure we have all experienced at some time or another! The cat in question belonged to Chester Osborn and it developed a taste for red wine which of course had to be denied. The wine is a blend of Sagrantino and Cinsault which are vinified separately, completing fermentation in a mixture of old French and American oak. The wine does not undergo fining or filtration. With a bit of age the wine is soft and round with lovely savoury fruit and great concentration.
The Galvo Garage 2014. A Cabernet blend which has spent eighteen months in French oak. The wine hs a lovely depth of colour and lots of blackcurrant and plum. It has great mouthfeel and is drinking very well. It has a delightful touch of mint on the finish.
The Laughing Magpie 2015. A blend of Shiraz and Viognier which are co fermented. This is a wine that will benefit from a few more years of bottle age. It has great colour with dark, savoury berry fruit and delicate touch of b lack pepper.
The Ironstone Pressings 2016. A classic blend of Grenache (70%), Shiraz (25%) and Mourvedre (5%) from old vines some of which were planted over 100 years ago. The nose is complex, savoury dark fruits. A brooding giant with lovely rich fruit, great structure and a lingering finish.
The Dead Arm 2016. Classic McLaren Vale old vine Shiraz. Deep, dark an d complex with rich spicy fruit. Great texture and balance with the potential to live on and on. Beautiful wine.
The Amaranthine. Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012. From a vineyard planted in 1968, the wine has spent 20 months in old French barriques. Dark fruits, complex, savoury, spicy with a hint of cooling mint. Perfectly balanced and with great potential.
The Other Side. Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012. From a vineyard planted in 1916 which is at a higher elevation than Amaranthine and so is cooler. Not as expressive as Amaranthine but with great concentration. Big, meaty and savoury. When the tannins soften a little this will be yet another fantastic wine.
The Derelict Vineyard. 2018. Old bush vine Grenache from vineyards that once were abandoned hence the name. Soft red fruits with lovely peppery spice. A wine that is so drinkable now.
The Derelict Vineyard 2010. Lovely mature appearance and nose. Palate is complex with red fruits and a delicious savoury core. Lovely stuff.
The Blewitt Springs Grenache 2010. Made with fruit from three vineyards. Soft red fruit and blueberry, the wine is mature and ethereal. It has elegance and complexity with a nice hint of violet perfume. Excellent.
The Noble Botryotinia Fuckeliana 2017. A blend of Semillon (95%) and Sauvignon Blanc (5%). With 135g/l residual sugar this wine is very appealing with tropical aromas of passion fruit. Nicely balanced on the plate and a nice hint of orange on the finish.
The Noble Mud Pie 2017. A blend of Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Pinot Gris. It has 155g/l residual sugar but has lovely balance and freshness. Tropical fruits and lemon and a long lingering finish.
Once you have completed your visit to the Cube it is worth spending a little time in the sculpture garden or maybe even a visit to the Verandah restaurant. If you have purchased any wine during your tasting you will need to collect it from The Stables wine store close to the car park.