The five weeks we spent in Australia at the start of the year seem a long time ago now. We have been in lockdown here in the UK for over two weeks but we had reduced our travelling before this, cancelling a trip to Greece as we were unsure what restrictions might be brought in that might have left us stranded. It seems very unlikely that we will take another trip out of the UK this year as when this is all over we feel that supporting businesses in the UK is something that is important and necessary.
During our time in Australia I found it difficult to update the blog as we travelled around due to a combination of poor wifi in places and just generally being too busy. As a result I have lots of notes that still need to be written up and published. I have gradually been doing this over the past few weeks but still have to write up our visits to South and Western Australia. Hence I have been able to publish posts while in lockdown. So we are not travelling but are simply catching up.
The Gordon River is located in south western Tasmania, flowing from the central highlands into Mcquarie Harbour, it is a wilderness area protected by law and one of the best ways to see the area is by boat.
Cruises operate from the town of Strahan (pronounced Strawn) which is on the northern shore of Macquarie Harbour. We went with Gordon River Cruises who operate from an office on The Esplanade. Check in opens at 8am and the boat sails at 8.30, you can book in advance via their website and this is probably best for the busy summer months. The cruise lasts for 6 hours and lunch on board is included in the ticket price. There is also a small cafe bar where you can purchase coffee and snacks. The boat is a 190 seater catamaran called the Spirit of the Wild.
Seating onboard is spacious and comfortable, If you choose to remain inside the views are good thanks to the huge glass windows. There are external viewing decks for those that want to spend a little time outside.
The cruise is actually split into three parts. The first is a trip across the harbour to the narrow opening with the Southern Ocean called Hells Gate. A notoriously difficult area to navigate due to shallow water and currents you can see the remains of the breakwater that was built at the beginning of the twentieth century to improve the entrance and exit to the harbour. Bonnet Island is a small island at the entrance to the harbour upon which was built a lighthouse.
Bonnet Island lighthouse
Returning from Hells gate across the harbour towards the mouth of the Gordon River you pass some of the fish farms which are permitted in the parts of the harbour which are outside the designated wilderness area.
As you enter the mouth of the river the captain switches from traditional engines to an electric motor giving a much quieter journey up the river and enabling you to enjoy the magnificent scenery in peaceful tranquility.
The temperate rainforest is dense and lush but surprisingly quiet. The Huon Pine was once king here but logging for its highly valued timber reduced numbers significantly until its cessation. They are some of the longest lived living things with some found is Tasmania estimated to be over 10,000 years old.
The boat docks at Heritage Landing where a boardwalk has been built to take you on a short circular walk through the forest. It really is a most amazing place, a vulnerable ecosystem which must be preserved for the future.
From Heritage Landing the boat heads back downstream as this is the farthest that lane boats can travel.
As you enter back into Macquarie Harbour the main engines are re-engaged and you set course for Sarah Island, the final part of the cruise.
For eleven years between 1822 and 1833 Sarah Island housed the toughest penal colony in Australia. If you caused trouble in other colonies you were sent here, if you escaped and were recaptured you were sent here. Isolated in Macquarie Harbour escape from here was virtually impossible.
You spend about an hour here and are taken round by a Ranger who gives a very informative and entertaining commentary as you walk around what remains of the site. Considering its location, exposure to the elements and age the buildings are quite well preserved. You cab still see the remains of the bread oven in what would have been the camp bakery.
The tour ends back at the landing stage and you board the boat for the three quarters of an hours cruise back to Strahan, arriving back at around 2.30. A great trip and well worth doing if you are lucky enough to visit this wonderful part of Tasmania.
A highlight of any visit to Hobart is the locally produced food and drink that is on offer in a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops. Quality is high here and locals take real pride in their locally produced produce and when its this good why wouldn’t you. This post is by no means the definitive guide but does represent some of the places we enjoyed on our two recent visits.
Jackman & McRoss (57 Hampden Road). We rented an Airbnb in Battery Park and this delightful cafe was only a five minute walk away and was ideal for breakfast. It gets busy, especially at weekends, but service is quick and there is some pavement seating if you prefer. There are some excellent choices on the menu.
Machine Laundry Cafe (12 Salamanca Square). Bright, colourful and a great place to stop for coffee and cake as you explore the shops and galleries of Salamanca.
Retro Cafe (31 Salamanca Place).
Located close to the waterfront and serving very nice coffee .
Fish Frenzy (Elizabeth Street Pier). A lovely waterfront location overlooking the harbour, with indoor and outdoor seating, and serving some fantastic seafood at reasonable prices. If fish and chips is your fancy then try the Blue Eye Trevalla, you won’t be disappointed. One of the nicest fish I have ever had.
Syra (8 Salamanca Square). We had a lovely dinner here. The food is Middle Eastern and comes in either small or large plates. We went for the option where the kitchen decides what you eat, which is available for parties of two or more. Takes all stress of choosing and we were not disappointed, everything was delicious. The service was also excellent.
Honey Badger Dessert Cafe (7 Salamanca Square). Despite its name it does serve a small number of savoury dishes but that’s not really what people come here for. For those that dessert is the best part of a meal this is the place for you.
Tom McHugo’s (87 Macquarie Street). What more could you ask for, a pub serving restaurant quality food at reasonable prices. They also have a first class selection of craft beers, the Ocho Seasonal IPA was one of the best beers we had on the whole of our time in Australia. It can get busy so it is best to book ahead if you want to eat here.
MONA. There are a number of options when visiting this fantastic museum. The cafe serves some very tasty sandwiches and snacks and as everywhere in Tasmania the coffee is excellent. If you require something a little more substantial there is The Source Restaurant. There are some pretty good options for drinks here also including The Void Bar ion the depths of the museum.
Preachers (5 Knopwood Street).
If craft beer is your thing then a visit to Preachers, just a short walk from Salamanca Place, is a must. Located in an old victorian house it also has a very large beer garden into which they have integrated an old single decker bus should it get a little chilly or wet. With twelves or so beers on tap there is always a good range of styles and breweries on offer. They also do a nice line in food too.
The Whaler (39 Salamanca Place). There has been some sort of public house here since 1829 and the current incarnation serves some very nice beer indeed. Outdoor seating enables you experience the bustle of Salamanca first hand.
