Hobart is Australia’s second oldest and most southerly city. It really is a super place to visit as it’s small enough to make it walkable for most of the sights and there is a wealth of excellent places for food and drink.
MONA
The Museum of Old and New Art is like no other museum I have ever been to. Located mainly underground it will surprise, amuse and shock you in equal measure. Located 8 miles from the centre of Hobart but if you don’t have a car you can catch the ferry from Brooke Street Pier in the centre of town.
Mount Wellington
You really can’t avoid Mount Wellington as it stands dominant as a backdrop to the city. Standing at an impressive 1271m it can be snow capped even in the summer and even on a hot day in the city it can be cold and windy at the summit. It’s a half hour drive to the top from the centre of Hobart on a road that can be steep and windy in places. Its well worth the effort getting there as the views are spectacular.
Salamanca Place/Square
The sandstone former warehouses close to the waterfront have been transformed into Hobart’s cultural heart. Home to independent retailers, galleries, restaurants, cafes and bars there is something for everyone here and its a great place to spend a few hours. On Saturday mornings the street is transformed into a very popular and successful street market. With over 300 stallholders it has become the place to buy local products.
Battery Point
Battery Point is an area of the city adjacent to Salamanca, It is lovely area, ideal for wandering around in a leisurely manner admiring the beautiful houses most of which date back to Victorian times. Conservation status mean that the area is protected from unwanted development. Stop for coffee at Jackman & McRoss on Hampden Road if you feel like watching the world go by, the food is pretty good here as well.
Mawson’s Hut
Mawsons Huts are actually to be found at Cape Denison in Antarctica but Hobart has created a fascinating museum in the form of a replica hut. If you are interested in Antarctic exploration or in the human ability to survive in extraordinary conditions this is for you. We spent a good hour in here and were really glad we went.
Take a Walking Tour
Hobart Free Walking Tours have two tours. The first is a cultural and historic tour which runs daily from St David’s Park and lasts for two hours. The second is a ghost tour departing from Salamanca Square. Historic Hobart also offers a number of different tours but you do have to pay a fee.
Take a Trip to Port Arthur
Port Arthur Heritage Site is the best preserved penal colony in Australia and is only a 90 minute drive from Hobart. You can either self drive or join a tour from the city. From 1833 for twenty years the most hardened criminals were sentenced to time at Port Arthur and it is of great significance as it is so well preserved. Entrance is 40AD and this is valid over two consecutive days if you have a couple of days in the area and when to take your time visiting all the buildings and exhibits.
Sample the Food and Drink
You really are spoilt for choice in Hobart as there are so many good quality cafes, bars and restaurants. If you are self catering in the city there is Salamanca Fresh on Salamanca Place, a superb supermarket selling some of the best of what Tasmania has to offer. I have written a more detailed post on eating and drink in Hobart here.
Take a Bruny Island Cruise
Bruny Island Cruises have a three hour boat trip from Adventure Bay on the island which features the dramatic coastline and wildlife of the area. You can travel by bus from Hobart in which case it becomes a full day tour. Bookings can be made online or at their office on Franklin Wharf from where the day tour departs at 7.45 daily.
The Three Capes Track opened at the end of 2015 after some ten years in the making and it has become Australia’s number one hiking experience. Located on Tasmania’s southern coast it takes you across the varied landscapes of Cape Pillar and Cape Huey in a 48km, 4 day experience like no other. Staying in cabins along the way, this was to be our first experience of a multi day walk carrying everything we need with us including wine!
Only 48 walkers can start the track on any given day and you need to book well in advance, especially for walking in the summer months. You can check the booking portal here.
DAY 1
Our day began with a short drive from our overnight accommodation at a rental property in White Beach. We had booked the boat leaving Port Arthur Historic Site at 11.30 and gave ourselves an hour to check in at the walks main office and get ourselves sorted. There are secure lockers of varying size if you need to leave belongings that you don’t need on the walk. This saves having to leave anything valuable in the car which had to be left in the top car park for the duration. Do make sure that you collect your copy of the Encounters on the Edge booklet from the walk office when you check in. Not only is it an excellent souvenir to take home it also is intended to be used at various points along the way. There is a good cafe at the historic site where you can have an early lunch or buy sandwiches and snacks for your first day on the track.
Strangely enough the Three Capes Track begins with a boat cruise. Leaving the jetty at the Historic Site at 11.30 (and again at 2.30 for those wanting a later start) the next hour or so is spent heading out towards Crescent Bay and a view of Tasman Island before turning back and sailing to the drop off point at Denmans Cove. We were escorted by a small pod of common dolphins for part of the trip and it was amazing to see them so close up, how gracefully they move through the water.
Denmans Cove is a small, white sand beach and the track begins from the right side. The walking on the first day is only short at 4km with a gentle climb through eucalyptus woodland to the first nights accommodation at Surveyors Cabin. The cabins are amazing, designed to have minimum environmental impact, they are warm and comfortable. The kitchen and social area has cooking hobs and plenty of pots, pans . There are even USB charging points and a library of local information books and guides.
The sleeping cabins consist of bunk beds with very comfortable mattresses. There is no lighting here so a head torch is a very useful piece of equipment to have with you.
DAY 2
The second day is an 11km with an estimated time of around four and a half hours. in reality it will be longer than this as you stop for photographs, snacks and the Encounters. At points along the route there are installations, usually some form of seat, whose name relates to an information piece in the Encounters on the Edge booklet. These are incredibly informative either about history, geology, customs, animal life and plant life. On the first day there were only two Encounters but day 2 has ten and we made sure we experienced everyone. I was genuinely surprised at the number of fellow walkers who just passed right on by as they missed out on so much. We walked as group of eight and took it in turns to read the information aloud. We were occasionally joined by a pair of walkers who stopped for a few moments to listen and thanking us kindly as they then continued with their day.
The day begins with a steady climb to Arthurs Peak. The paths are good with a combination of boardwalk over the more fragile areas, gravel paths and stone steps. From the viewpoint at the top you can look across to Cape Raoul in the distance before continuing across the cliff top and then heading down to Ellarwey Valley, an open stretch of coastal heathland. The walking here is easy with a long stretches of boardwalk and gravel paths. Eventually you return to eucalyptus woodland as you complete your walk to Munro Cabin where you spend your second night.
DAY 3
A 19km walk awaits you on the third day along with the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. For many walkers this is the day that the walk truly becomes alive and it certainly is a dramatic day. The good news is that you don’t have to carry your heavy backpack as it is a return walk out to Cape Pillar and back. All you need for this is a small daypack for water, lunch, snacks, sunscreen etc.
The longest section of boardwalk crosses Hurricane Heath, hugging the hillside, it stretches out before you for over 2km. This section has safety railings and as we were taking a short breather we were fortunate enough to see an Echidna in the shrub just below the boardwalk. It seemed completely oblivious to our presence and we were able to watch it for a good five minutes before it disappeared from view under the track.
The views of the Dolerite sea cliffs become increasingly spectacular as you head towards The Blade and then on to Cape Pillar with its view across to Tasman Island. It is spectacular and you will be tempted to spend time here just taking in the spectacular scenery around you but eventually you have to head off back to Munro Cabin to collect your backpack and then head out for a short walk of around an hour to arrive at Retakuna Cabin for the final night on the track.
DAY 4
A walk of 14km will take you from Retakuna to the finish of the track at Fortescue Bay. We left the cabins along the boardwalk and were guided by a couple of wallaby’s before they disappeared into the shrub. The day begins with the climb of Mount Fortescue , its the biggest climb of the track with a lot of stone steps to climb. A few stops for breathers along the way certainly helped here! From the summit you head into old temperate rainforest with enormous trees and ferns. Its frequently rains here and the trees and forest floor are carpeted with lush, green moss. Its like waking through a scene from Lord of the Rings!
The final day does have a deadline as you have to catch a bus back from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur Historic Site. You book your place on the bus when you book the walk and you have the option of 2.30 or 4pm. Those on the early bus had to leave Retauna very early to ensure that they arrived on time. You need to allow at least seven hours to complete the track, especially if you take the extension out to the tip of Cape Huay which involves a lot of stone steps and you are advised to allow two hors for the return back to the junction of the track. To make things a little easier you can leave your pack at the junction before heading off down the first set of steps. From the track junction its a gentle 45 minutes down to end of the track at Fortescue Bay. Its very welcome to take off the backpack on the beach, you may even have time for a swim before getting on the bus for the thirty minute trip back to Port Arthur.
What an experience it was. We walked the track in early February and had good weather, mostly dry if a little cloudy but we were lucky to have clear skies for the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. The nights were chilly and I was glad I carried something a little warmer with me.
Some tips for walkers
Book the early boat from Port Arthur. It gives you plenty of time to appreciate the short walk to Surveyors.
If you have never walked with a fully laden backpack do try it out before you start the track.
Think carefully about food. You must carry out all wrappers etc as there are no rubbish bins either at the cabins or along the track. The cabins are well equipped but do not have fridges, microwaves or ovens.
The Three Capes Track website is a great resource with a very useful packing list and advice about food and where to source it.
Allow yourself enough time to read each encounter from the booklet along the way. It really will enhance your experience.
Book the later bus back from Fortescue Bay. It gives you the option of a later start in the morning and certainly more time along the way.
Although included on the Tamar Valley Wine Route the vineyards and cellar door are actually located in Relbia which is a fifteen minute drive south of Launceston near the airport. They are geared up for visitors with a restaurant, tasting room and gift shop. It can get busy at times but the tasting are well organised and you don’t feel that you are being rushed through, staff are very welcoming and in formative and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
The story of Josef Chromy is a fascinating one. Having qualified as a butcher nineteen year old Josef escaped from communist Czechoslovakia in 1950. Finding his way to Austria he was given refugee status and offered relocation to America, Canada, New Zealand or Australia. He chose Australia because he thought it was a land of opportunity and was as far away from communism that he could imagine. Josef settled in Tasmania and worked in factories until he had enough money saved to start his own business in the butchery and meat trade. Having built a hugely successful business Josef invested in the growing new wine industry in Tasmania and was involved in Tamar Ridge amongst others. He launched Josef Chromy Wines in late 2007 and it has grown to become one of the best known producers on the island.
The estate has 61 hectares of vines and grows Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Noir.
NV Tasmanian Cuvee. A blend of Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) and has spent 18 months on lees. The nose is biscuity and very appealing. Lemon citrus with a touch of red berry, crisp and dry with a lovely biscuity finish. Very drinkable, an excellent aperitif.
NV Sparkling Rose. 100% Pinot Noir. Delicate salmon pink, gentle mousse and elegant red fruits. Dry with a nice strawberry finish.
Riesling 2018. lime with a flinty minerality. Dry with a nice texture.
Pinot Gris 2019. The nose is aromatic, peachy, apricot and a hint of lime. Palate has lovely texture with stone fruit and gentle peach on the finish. Very nice.
Chardonnay 2018. Barrel fermented with one third new and the remainder a mixture of one and two years old. Some wild fermentation. The wine spent twelve months in oak before bottling. The nose is very appealing with stone fruit and almond. The palate has layers of flavour with tropical fruits, apricot, lovely balance and a nice nutty biscuity finish.
Zdar Chardonnay 2012. Hand picked fruit is pressed directly into barrel with no fining or settling. One third of the barriques are new French oak with the remainder a mixture of one and two years old. Following fermentation the wine spends twelve months in oak before bottling where it ages further before release. The wine is only made in the best vintages. The nose is lemon citrus along with biscuity vanilla. The palate has complexity and a creamy texture. The finish has great length. Excellent stuff.
Rose 2019. Pinot Noir juice in contact with skins for 4 hours to produce a delicate pale pink colour. There is lots of strawberry fruit here with some elegant floral notes. Very drinkable indeed.
Pinot Noir 2018. With 25% whole bunch in the ferment and ageing in French oak of which one third was new and the remainder a mixture of between one and four years. Delightful cherry and dried herbs on the nose. The palate has good structure with a gently savoury spice supporting the cherry fruit. Very nice indeed.
Pinot Noir 2013. What a delightful wine this is. The nose is complex with cherry, mushroom and toasty spice. Palate is complex, ethereal, cherry, savoury and a nice gentle spicy finish.
Botrytis Riesling 2017. Orange citrus with candied peel and melon. Lovely balance and texture. Very good and a great end to an excellent flight of wines.
