Hemingways Port Douglas

Hemingways is a gastrobrew pub located on the Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina in Port Douglas, Northern Queensland. Sine its opening in the summer of 2016 it has successfully produced a range of beers with are un filtered, unpasteurised and free of any preservatives. The craft beer movement, while well established in New Zealand, is not so well represented in Australia and this is the first venture of its kind in tropical Queensland although plans are afoot to open a second brewhouse in Cairns in summer 2018.

As its very hot and humid in this part of Australia a nice cold beer is just what the doctor ordered.

A selection of the beers tasted in March 2018

Doug’s Courage IPA  5.6% IBU 41

A brew named in hour of the courage of Port Douglas to rebuild following the devastation caused by a cyclone in 1911.

Amber in appearance with a slight haze. There is a good head to the beer that persists. Full flavour, medium bitterness, citrus abounds. Full and round on the finish. Very nice indeed.

Pitchfork Betty Pale Ale 5.1% IBU 35

Light amber, clear with a good, persistent head to the beer. Full flavour with smokey black cardamon,  medium bitterness,mildly hoppy with a nice tropical fruit edge.

4 Mile White Lager 4.7% IBU 16

Full flavoured wheat beer with flavours of bubblegum, apple juice and a gentle tanginess. Low bitterness. Very drinkable, very nice.

Mrs Watson Small Ale 3.7% IBU 30

Light amber in appearance, clear with a light frothy head that persists. Low bitterness. Lemon citrus with a gentle touch of spice. Quite full. very drinkable.

All beers were well made, characterful and thoroughly enjoyable. Others beers are available including a pilsner and a dark lager but lack of time prevent tasting. They also do a very good food menu and I can certainly recommend the double cheeseburger!

Katu Tjuta

Katu Tjuta is a sandstone rock formation that is 25Km to the east of Uluru. It consists of 36 domes. They are also known as The Olgas after the tallest dome which is called Mount Olga.

Like its near neighbour Uluru it has been estimated to be around 600 million years old and is a sacred place to a the local indigenous communities.

The Walpa Gorge walk is a short 2.6Km walk between two of the largest domes of  Katu Tjuta. The path is well defined and it is a relatively easy walk, taking about an hour in total for the round trip. Entering the gorge you are immediately struck by the enormity of the domes on either side of you. The walls are pitted and sheer in places and create dark shadows. It is only when you get close up to these natural structures that you realised just how big they actually are.

Many plants grow in the gorge some of which are very rare. The gorge ends with a small pool which at certain times of year feeds a small creek running out of the gorge. It is this water, together with shade form the hot desert sun, that makes the gorge such an important refuge.

A worthy walk, especially early in the morning before it becomes too hot, in a very quiet and peaceful place. There may well be other tourists around but there won’t be many, certainly nothing like the numbers at nearby Uluru.

Australia’s Red Centre

As you land at Ayers Rock airport two things  strike you. The first is that the red centre really is red, a deep red that looks like it has been concentrated over time as it bakes in the desert sun. The second, and more surprising, is that it is also green. Despite the low rainfall and high temperatures some species of plant actually appear to thrive here. Whereas there is  only a few shades of red the greens come in all shades.

There are over 400 species of plants in the area around Uluru and Kata Tjuta alone If you include the whole of the red centre of Australia the number is in the thousands. These plants are important to the indigenous aboriginal people who have used them as food, medicine, for making weapons and clothing. Some plants will grow and flower only following desert rain, others are very well adapted to surviving in the hot and dry climate. The following are just three examples of plants found around Uluru and Kings Canyon that demonstrate just how well adapted they are.

Spinifex

A significant contributor to the overall greeness of the desert is spinifex. Spinifex is a grass, a highly adapted grass, that can survive the exceptionally dry conditions. It is incredibly deep rooted which is important in its search for the water table and these roots also spread out laterally. This lateral growth gives stability as the grass helps bind the sandy earth and prevents erosion.

Clumps of spinifex are very common. if you are unlucky to walk through them the leaves are sharp yet they provide shelter for small desert marsupials. As the grass ages the centre dies to leave a ring.

The Desert Oak

The Desert Oak is very common in the area around Uluru. As you move further and further away it gradually disappears from the landscape.

When young it consists of a single stem with little side branching, Its leaves are modified to prevent water loss and it has a very slow growth rate. Much of its growth is going on below ground as the roots grow and spread in search of water. Once the roots reach the water table and there is a sufficient supply of water the tree will begin to produce side branches. The Desert Oak is able to cope with bushfires, only its foliage will burn, the trunk is relatively fire resistant.

Ghost Gum

Eucalyptus trees are very common throughout Australia where they are also known as gum  trees. One species of gum highly adapted for life in an arid climate is the Ghost Gum. So called because its trunk and branches are ghostly white in appearance

In times of severe water shortage the tree can selectively kill off branches to conserve water. As the tree grows these appear black and without any foliage giving the tree a kind of mosaic appearance