Porto is the second largest city in Portugal but has a population of less than a quarter of a million so it manages to have the feel of something much smaller than expected. It sits on the northern bank of the Douro river, directly opposite the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. To many they are as one and both are closely identified with the city’s most famous export, port.
Some port facts
- Port can be produced in only one region – Portugal’s Douro Valley.
- Yield are low in the Douro due to the hot climate and poor soils.
- Over 100 different grape varieties can be used to make port but only five are mainly used; Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touring Nacional.
- The grapes are traditionally trodden by foot in large tanks called lagars.
- Port was made in the Douro valley but was taken to Porto where it was much cooler and there was less chance of the wine spoiling.
- Port used to be transported to Porto by boat called a Rabelo as it was much quicker than by road
- Up to 1986 it was compulsory to take port to Porto to mature. It can now be done in the Douro as modern technology has meant that temperatures can be accurately controlled.
Tasting port
In Porto, close to the river, is Portologia (Rua de Sao Joao 28-30). This is a good place to start as there are many different tastings available and so can give you a flavour of the different styles of port available. It is an interesting establishment as it has some of the smaller port producers available that you do not usually come across in the UK. If you taste something and like it you can buy a bottle to take away with you.
Crossing the river into Vila Nova de Gaia there a several options available for visiting a port house and taking in a tour. Taylors is one of the oldest port houses dating back some 325 years. Tours here are self guided following a trail and supported by an audio commentary which is available in several languages. Reservations are not necessary but you can book ahead if you wish, the cellars are open from 10.00 to 18.00 every day. Taylors cellars are at the top of the hill so be prepared. The views from here though are pretty spectacular.
The tour includes a tasting of two wines; Chip Dry White Port and Late Bottled Vintage.
Taylors also has a restaurant, Barão Fladgate, which is excellent for lunch following your visit but is also open in the evening. I would recommend making a reservation here, especially if you want one of the tables outside which have superb city views. Both food and service are excellent and it is the perfect end to a visit.
There are of course plenty of other options to visit a port house including;
- Calem
- Ramos Pinto – book at the visitor centre
- Grahams – reservation required
- Churchills
If you want to sample port but are not bothered about a guided tour there are number of options available. Many of these are on, or close to, the waterfront (Avenida Diogo Leite) and therefore require little walking from the bridge.
- Ramos Pinto – has a huge tasting room with comfy sofas. Very welcome at the end of a busy day.
- Quinta do Noval – has no cellars in the city. All port is matured in the Douro valley
- Sandemans
The biggest challenge is choosing what to include. As port is a fortified wine there is only so much that you can taste in one day without feeling rather worse for wear!