A highlight of any visit to Hobart is the locally produced food and drink that is on offer in a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops. Quality is high here and locals take real pride in their locally produced produce and when its this good why wouldn’t you. This post is by no means the definitive guide but does represent some of the places we enjoyed on our two recent visits.
Jackman & McRoss (57 Hampden Road). We rented an Airbnb in Battery Park and this delightful cafe was only a five minute walk away and was ideal for breakfast. It gets busy, especially at weekends, but service is quick and there is some pavement seating if you prefer. There are some excellent choices on the menu.
Machine Laundry Cafe (12 Salamanca Square). Bright, colourful and a great place to stop for coffee and cake as you explore the shops and galleries of Salamanca.
Retro Cafe (31 Salamanca Place).
Located close to the waterfront and serving very nice coffee .
Fish Frenzy (Elizabeth Street Pier). A lovely waterfront location overlooking the harbour, with indoor and outdoor seating, and serving some fantastic seafood at reasonable prices. If fish and chips is your fancy then try the Blue Eye Trevalla, you won’t be disappointed. One of the nicest fish I have ever had.
Syra (8 Salamanca Square). We had a lovely dinner here. The food is Middle Eastern and comes in either small or large plates. We went for the option where the kitchen decides what you eat, which is available for parties of two or more. Takes all stress of choosing and we were not disappointed, everything was delicious. The service was also excellent.
Honey Badger Dessert Cafe (7 Salamanca Square). Despite its name it does serve a small number of savoury dishes but that’s not really what people come here for. For those that dessert is the best part of a meal this is the place for you.
Tom McHugo’s (87 Macquarie Street). What more could you ask for, a pub serving restaurant quality food at reasonable prices. They also have a first class selection of craft beers, the Ocho Seasonal IPA was one of the best beers we had on the whole of our time in Australia. It can get busy so it is best to book ahead if you want to eat here.
MONA. There are a number of options when visiting this fantastic museum. The cafe serves some very tasty sandwiches and snacks and as everywhere in Tasmania the coffee is excellent. If you require something a little more substantial there is The Source Restaurant. There are some pretty good options for drinks here also including The Void Bar ion the depths of the museum.
Preachers (5 Knopwood Street).
If craft beer is your thing then a visit to Preachers, just a short walk from Salamanca Place, is a must. Located in an old victorian house it also has a very large beer garden into which they have integrated an old single decker bus should it get a little chilly or wet. With twelves or so beers on tap there is always a good range of styles and breweries on offer. They also do a nice line in food too.
The Whaler (39 Salamanca Place). There has been some sort of public house here since 1829 and the current incarnation serves some very nice beer indeed. Outdoor seating enables you experience the bustle of Salamanca first hand.
Hobart is Australia’s second oldest and most southerly city. It really is a super place to visit as it’s small enough to make it walkable for most of the sights and there is a wealth of excellent places for food and drink.
MONA
The Museum of Old and New Art is like no other museum I have ever been to. Located mainly underground it will surprise, amuse and shock you in equal measure. Located 8 miles from the centre of Hobart but if you don’t have a car you can catch the ferry from Brooke Street Pier in the centre of town.
Mount Wellington
You really can’t avoid Mount Wellington as it stands dominant as a backdrop to the city. Standing at an impressive 1271m it can be snow capped even in the summer and even on a hot day in the city it can be cold and windy at the summit. It’s a half hour drive to the top from the centre of Hobart on a road that can be steep and windy in places. Its well worth the effort getting there as the views are spectacular.
Salamanca Place/Square
The sandstone former warehouses close to the waterfront have been transformed into Hobart’s cultural heart. Home to independent retailers, galleries, restaurants, cafes and bars there is something for everyone here and its a great place to spend a few hours. On Saturday mornings the street is transformed into a very popular and successful street market. With over 300 stallholders it has become the place to buy local products.
Battery Point
Battery Point is an area of the city adjacent to Salamanca, It is lovely area, ideal for wandering around in a leisurely manner admiring the beautiful houses most of which date back to Victorian times. Conservation status mean that the area is protected from unwanted development. Stop for coffee at Jackman & McRoss on Hampden Road if you feel like watching the world go by, the food is pretty good here as well.
Mawson’s Hut
Mawsons Huts are actually to be found at Cape Denison in Antarctica but Hobart has created a fascinating museum in the form of a replica hut. If you are interested in Antarctic exploration or in the human ability to survive in extraordinary conditions this is for you. We spent a good hour in here and were really glad we went.
Take a Walking Tour
Hobart Free Walking Tours have two tours. The first is a cultural and historic tour which runs daily from St David’s Park and lasts for two hours. The second is a ghost tour departing from Salamanca Square. Historic Hobart also offers a number of different tours but you do have to pay a fee.
Take a Trip to Port Arthur
Port Arthur Heritage Site is the best preserved penal colony in Australia and is only a 90 minute drive from Hobart. You can either self drive or join a tour from the city. From 1833 for twenty years the most hardened criminals were sentenced to time at Port Arthur and it is of great significance as it is so well preserved. Entrance is 40AD and this is valid over two consecutive days if you have a couple of days in the area and when to take your time visiting all the buildings and exhibits.
Sample the Food and Drink
You really are spoilt for choice in Hobart as there are so many good quality cafes, bars and restaurants. If you are self catering in the city there is Salamanca Fresh on Salamanca Place, a superb supermarket selling some of the best of what Tasmania has to offer. I have written a more detailed post on eating and drink in Hobart here.
Take a Bruny Island Cruise
Bruny Island Cruises have a three hour boat trip from Adventure Bay on the island which features the dramatic coastline and wildlife of the area. You can travel by bus from Hobart in which case it becomes a full day tour. Bookings can be made online or at their office on Franklin Wharf from where the day tour departs at 7.45 daily.
The Three Capes Track opened at the end of 2015 after some ten years in the making and it has become Australia’s number one hiking experience. Located on Tasmania’s southern coast it takes you across the varied landscapes of Cape Pillar and Cape Huey in a 48km, 4 day experience like no other. Staying in cabins along the way, this was to be our first experience of a multi day walk carrying everything we need with us including wine!
Only 48 walkers can start the track on any given day and you need to book well in advance, especially for walking in the summer months. You can check the booking portal here.
DAY 1
Our day began with a short drive from our overnight accommodation at a rental property in White Beach. We had booked the boat leaving Port Arthur Historic Site at 11.30 and gave ourselves an hour to check in at the walks main office and get ourselves sorted. There are secure lockers of varying size if you need to leave belongings that you don’t need on the walk. This saves having to leave anything valuable in the car which had to be left in the top car park for the duration. Do make sure that you collect your copy of the Encounters on the Edge booklet from the walk office when you check in. Not only is it an excellent souvenir to take home it also is intended to be used at various points along the way. There is a good cafe at the historic site where you can have an early lunch or buy sandwiches and snacks for your first day on the track.
Strangely enough the Three Capes Track begins with a boat cruise. Leaving the jetty at the Historic Site at 11.30 (and again at 2.30 for those wanting a later start) the next hour or so is spent heading out towards Crescent Bay and a view of Tasman Island before turning back and sailing to the drop off point at Denmans Cove. We were escorted by a small pod of common dolphins for part of the trip and it was amazing to see them so close up, how gracefully they move through the water.
Denmans Cove is a small, white sand beach and the track begins from the right side. The walking on the first day is only short at 4km with a gentle climb through eucalyptus woodland to the first nights accommodation at Surveyors Cabin. The cabins are amazing, designed to have minimum environmental impact, they are warm and comfortable. The kitchen and social area has cooking hobs and plenty of pots, pans . There are even USB charging points and a library of local information books and guides.
The sleeping cabins consist of bunk beds with very comfortable mattresses. There is no lighting here so a head torch is a very useful piece of equipment to have with you.
DAY 2
The second day is an 11km with an estimated time of around four and a half hours. in reality it will be longer than this as you stop for photographs, snacks and the Encounters. At points along the route there are installations, usually some form of seat, whose name relates to an information piece in the Encounters on the Edge booklet. These are incredibly informative either about history, geology, customs, animal life and plant life. On the first day there were only two Encounters but day 2 has ten and we made sure we experienced everyone. I was genuinely surprised at the number of fellow walkers who just passed right on by as they missed out on so much. We walked as group of eight and took it in turns to read the information aloud. We were occasionally joined by a pair of walkers who stopped for a few moments to listen and thanking us kindly as they then continued with their day.
The day begins with a steady climb to Arthurs Peak. The paths are good with a combination of boardwalk over the more fragile areas, gravel paths and stone steps. From the viewpoint at the top you can look across to Cape Raoul in the distance before continuing across the cliff top and then heading down to Ellarwey Valley, an open stretch of coastal heathland. The walking here is easy with a long stretches of boardwalk and gravel paths. Eventually you return to eucalyptus woodland as you complete your walk to Munro Cabin where you spend your second night.
DAY 3
A 19km walk awaits you on the third day along with the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. For many walkers this is the day that the walk truly becomes alive and it certainly is a dramatic day. The good news is that you don’t have to carry your heavy backpack as it is a return walk out to Cape Pillar and back. All you need for this is a small daypack for water, lunch, snacks, sunscreen etc.
The longest section of boardwalk crosses Hurricane Heath, hugging the hillside, it stretches out before you for over 2km. This section has safety railings and as we were taking a short breather we were fortunate enough to see an Echidna in the shrub just below the boardwalk. It seemed completely oblivious to our presence and we were able to watch it for a good five minutes before it disappeared from view under the track.
The views of the Dolerite sea cliffs become increasingly spectacular as you head towards The Blade and then on to Cape Pillar with its view across to Tasman Island. It is spectacular and you will be tempted to spend time here just taking in the spectacular scenery around you but eventually you have to head off back to Munro Cabin to collect your backpack and then head out for a short walk of around an hour to arrive at Retakuna Cabin for the final night on the track.
DAY 4
A walk of 14km will take you from Retakuna to the finish of the track at Fortescue Bay. We left the cabins along the boardwalk and were guided by a couple of wallaby’s before they disappeared into the shrub. The day begins with the climb of Mount Fortescue , its the biggest climb of the track with a lot of stone steps to climb. A few stops for breathers along the way certainly helped here! From the summit you head into old temperate rainforest with enormous trees and ferns. Its frequently rains here and the trees and forest floor are carpeted with lush, green moss. Its like waking through a scene from Lord of the Rings!
The final day does have a deadline as you have to catch a bus back from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur Historic Site. You book your place on the bus when you book the walk and you have the option of 2.30 or 4pm. Those on the early bus had to leave Retauna very early to ensure that they arrived on time. You need to allow at least seven hours to complete the track, especially if you take the extension out to the tip of Cape Huay which involves a lot of stone steps and you are advised to allow two hors for the return back to the junction of the track. To make things a little easier you can leave your pack at the junction before heading off down the first set of steps. From the track junction its a gentle 45 minutes down to end of the track at Fortescue Bay. Its very welcome to take off the backpack on the beach, you may even have time for a swim before getting on the bus for the thirty minute trip back to Port Arthur.
What an experience it was. We walked the track in early February and had good weather, mostly dry if a little cloudy but we were lucky to have clear skies for the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. The nights were chilly and I was glad I carried something a little warmer with me.
Some tips for walkers
Book the early boat from Port Arthur. It gives you plenty of time to appreciate the short walk to Surveyors.
If you have never walked with a fully laden backpack do try it out before you start the track.
Think carefully about food. You must carry out all wrappers etc as there are no rubbish bins either at the cabins or along the track. The cabins are well equipped but do not have fridges, microwaves or ovens.
The Three Capes Track website is a great resource with a very useful packing list and advice about food and where to source it.
Allow yourself enough time to read each encounter from the booklet along the way. It really will enhance your experience.
Book the later bus back from Fortescue Bay. It gives you the option of a later start in the morning and certainly more time along the way.
