Berlin | Postcards From Here and There

Things to do in Berlin

Berlin is a fascinating city to visit and is an ideal location for a weekend or short break. There is something here for everyone here; history a plenty, great museums of all kinds, some fine shopping and an excellent bar and restaurant scene.

Reichstag

Since unification the Reichstag is the seat of the German parliament. The glass dome gives superb views of the city but must be pre-booked as it is very popular. You can do this here

Brandenburg Gate

The Brandenburg Gate with its sculpture of the winged goddess of victory atop is a potent symbol of the city. In the Cold War it represented the division of the city but now serves as a symbol for German unification. Get there early to avoid the crowds.

Holocaust Memorial

The memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe opened in 2005. It was designed by Peter Eisenman and consists of 2711 concrete columns called stelae arranged over an area about the size of a football field. The ground underfoot rises and falls as you walk between the columns and their close proximity to each other give a sense of discomfort and disorientation. There is an information centre is located underneath the monument and should not be missed. An audio guide is available for a small charge (3 euros). It is a very moving experience indeed as you discover something about families involved in the holocaust. The Room of Names gives the name and a short biography of all those Jews that were murdered or missing. It would take nearly seven years to hear them all.

Potsdamer Platz

Potsdamer Platz was destroyed by the building of the Berlin Wall in the 1960s. Since the wall came down it was been reborn and is a busy and thriving area. Home to the Sony Centre, shops and restaurants, cafés and bars it is now hard to image that it was once a place of division and separation. Panels from the wall can be seen outside the S-bahn station where there is a short but informative display

Hitler’s Bunker

You could walk past and not be any the wiser as all that remains today is a car park and an information display that shows the layout of the bunker complex. It also details how the bunker was collapsed and filled in following the end of the war.

Checkpoint Charlie

During the Cold War this was the main crossing for foreigners to pass into East Berlin. In October 1961 it was the site of a standoff between American and Russian tanks which made the world hold its breath for 16 hours. Today it’s a tourist trap where you can pay 3 euros to have your photograph taken with a fake border guard. Nevertheless it is worth a visit to help understand just how divided this city was.

Gendarmenmarkt

Just a short walk fro Checkpoint Charlie but a different world away. A square with two cathedrals, the German and French, and the Berlin concert hall. Its grand,imposing and a most beautiful square. The area around the square is full of bars and restaurants so is an ideal spot to stop for a refreshing break from all the sightseeing.

East Side Gallery

A preserved section of the Berlin Wall that is now home to over 100 murals is a must see on any visit to Berlin. You may not like all the art but you can’t fail to be touched by some of the messages of hope and reconciliation. Get there early to avoid the crowds. I have a more detailed post about it here

Friedrichshain

Home to the East Side Gallery, Friedrichshain is a neighbourhood well worth spending some time in. A former working class area which has evolved since the fall of the wall to become an area full of restaurants, bars and clubs with an artsy side. The area around Boxhagener Platz is particularly vibrant and the square itself is a welcome area of green space. North of the square is Karl Marx Allee. A jewel in the crown of East Berlin when it was constructed in the late 1950s. This incredibly wide boulevard is flanked by apartment blocks and was the scene of military parades. Today it is an opportunity to wonder at some of the functional architecture of the eastern block.

DDR Museum

Almost opposite the Berliner Dom just before you cross onto museum island this small museum explains, by means of a large number of interactive displays, what life was like in the former East Germany. I found the experience to be very good but it was very busy and I would suggest getting here early.

Gedenkstätte Berliner Maur

The Berlin Wall memorial is includes a fully preserved section of the Berlin Wall where you can see the border wall on the western side (nearest in photo) and the inner wall on the eastern side. Between then was the death strip, complete with floodlights and watchtowers. There is an information centre which shows an excellent film in English every hour on the half hour. The nearby documentation centre includes a tower which gives you a view over the area.

There is so much to see and do in Berlin that we couldn’t possibly do it all in just two and a half days. We didn’t have time visit any of the world renown museums on museum island for example. Not to worry though, Berlin is a city that is well worth a revisit in the near future.

Katz Orange

Katz Orange is a restaurant in central Berlin which is well worth a visit, not only for the quality of the cooking but also for a really good wine list.

Located in a former brewery, built in 1893, and set back from the road in a courtyard, the setting is fantastic. In warm weather there are tables arranged outside, covered by large parasols, which, if the weather permits, should be your choice of seating. The interior of the restaurant is arranged over two floors and is warm and inviting, creating a good atmosphere for a relaxed evening. So dining either inside or outside it’s a win win!

The menu is short and well focused, offering seven or so choices for both appetisers and mains. There are house specialities such as Duroc pork, which has been cooked for 12 hours at low temperature to create a wonderfully tender and flavoursome piece of meat. This is only available for two to share and my photograph doesn’t do it justice, it was superb.

Heirloom tomatoes with date vinegar, pine nuts and croutons

Ceviche of Rottstock Sea Trout with melon and dill

Duroc pork with pickled cauliflower, red and fried onions.

Portions are generous and we didn’t feel that dessert was necessary but there is an interesting choice for those that want it including white chocolate cheesecake and cherry clafoutis.

The wine list here is very good and this always makes choosing difficult but staff are very helpful and more than willing to spend time discussing the possible options. In the end we chose Testalonga El Bandito Skin Contact Orange Wine 2016 from South Africa. Made from Chenin Blanc grapes which the juice has a shortish period of contact with the skins during vinification to produce a wine of real character. Stone fruits and some savoury spice abound in a wine that is dry and well balanced.

Katz Orange, Bergstraße 22, 10115, Berlin.

Open daily but evenings only from 6pm

Website is here

Nordbahnof (S-bahn S1, S2, S25, S26) or Rosenthaler Platz (U-Bahn U8) are the closest public transport train lines.

East Side Gallery Berlin

The East Side Gallery is a 1.3 Km stretch of the Berlin Wall in the former East Berlin district of Friedrichshain. For visiting, the nearest S-bahn stations are Ostbanhof and Warschauer Straße. This preserved section of wall has become an open air gallery with over 100 paintings which are free to view 24 hours a day. Work here began in 1990, shortly after the fall of the wall, and involved over a hundred different artists from all over the world. The paintings are actually on what would have been the east side of the wall although the actual border between East and West Berlin was the nearby River Spree. The reverse side of the wall is covered in graffiti which makes for an interesting contrast.

Over the years since their creation many paintings have been affected by weathering, graffiti and even vandalism. As a result restoration work has been undertaken.

The gallery can get very busy as it is one of the top tourist attractions in the city. We got there around 9.30am and it was relatively quiet but coaches started to arrive from around 10 o’clock and there was then much competition for photographs.

For this post words are not really necessary. I’ll let the works speak for themselves. Note that some of the photos only show sections of a much larger work.