Tag: Bordeaux

Saint Emilion

The medieval town of Saint Émilion is an absolute gem and is a must do destination for anyone visiting the Bordeaux region. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and its location is wonderful, completely surrounded by vineyards. It is one of the major wine growing appelations of the Bordeaux region, producing red wines and is an appellation where the merlot grape reigns supreme.

I have been lucky enough to visit Bordeaux on three separate occasions. In August it was hot and very crowded. Parking is limited in the town, it is surrounded  by vineyards, and is therefore very hard to come by if its busy. In December the town is very quiet and ideal for great photo opportunities but some businesses were closed as it was out of season. My most recent visit was in October and it was ideal. Not too busy, parking readily available even arriving late morning, everything open and pleasantly warm. I would guess visiting in spring would be pretty similar

Saint Emilion makes an excellent day trip from Bordeaux. The journey by car is around 50Km and takes about an hour depending on the traffic in Bordeaux when you leave. If you have planned a vineyard visit do allow plenty of time in case the traffic out of the city is bad. It is possible to catch a train from Bordeaux’s Gare St. Jean. There are 14 trains per day however not all of them are direct, the four trains during the main part of the day require a change at Libourne. At the time of writing the 9.11 from Bordeaux is the last direct train until the 17.09. The station at Saint Emilion is located about a 20 minute walk from the town, the walk is very pleasant but it is worth bearing in mind. It is also possible to join a tour from Bordeaux to the town. Costs here very much depend on the type of tour and its duration.

There is no getting away from the fact that Saint Emilion is a tourist town and wine is its most important business. Over the years I have seen that the number of shops selling wine has increased considerably. Many will allow you a tasting and there is no obligation to buy. There are some great wines for sale but you are unlikely to find any bargains amongst the more renown chateau on offer.

There is however much more to the town than wine. It is a town built for wandering, discovering the streets, alleyways and yards. As its small you don’t need a map but do bear in mind that its hilly. As you wander there are lots  of little shops and not all of them sell wine.

There are art galleries and craft shops which are well worth a visit and a stop for the local delicacy is a must. Macarons de Saint Émilion are not the brightly coloured creations that many may be familiar with. These are thin, crisp almond biscuits and they have been made here for centuries.

There are also plenty of restaurants to choose from and the terrace area in the lower part of the town is very popular and it is easy to see why. It is a superb location.

Cordeliers Cloister can be found in the eastern part of town and is a listed monument dating back to the 15th century. It was abandoned in the late 18th century but then the caves beneath were subsequently used for the production of sparking wine. The wine goes by the name of Les Cordeliers and its production is very rare in the local region. Tours of the cellars are available as is a tasting of the wines. A glass, or two, is very pleasant on a warm afternoon.

Saint Emilion never disappoints and I always seem to be able to find something new in this medieval town. A visit is a day well spent.

5 Reasons to Visit Bordeaux

  1. The old town districts of Saint Pierre and Saint Paul. These narrow and busy streets are the beating heart of Bordeaux and date back to medieval times. They are a joy to wander around with numerous small shops, cafés and restaurants. Don’t miss the Grosse Cloche, the bell tower is built in the gothic style and the bell has been used to warm the citizens of Bordeaux  of significant events for centuries. The current bell was made in 1775 and is rung at noon on the first Sunday of the month and for other significant occasions such as Bastille Day.

Place St. Pierre is a lovely space to stop for coffee, the tree covered terrace gives welcome shade if it sunny.

For those requiring something little stronger Vins Urbains (27 rue des Bahutiers) is an excellent wine bar, serving mainly French wines alongside small plates. Beware however, it is not open at lunchtime.

2. La Cité du Vin. 

Opened in 2016 and now one of the top tourist attractions in the city it is a must for wine lovers but there is also much to admire for others. Basic admission covers the permanent exhibition, the observation deck giving excellent views of the city and a wine tasting from the sixteen on offer in the Belvedere Bar. Many other booking options are available including a full wine tasting, sensory workshop and  tour of the building focusing on its design and construction. You can easily spend a full day here. You can read more bout it in my post here

3. The Water Mirror. The water mirror, constructed in 2006, is to be found opposite one of Bordeaux’s architectural gems, The Place de la Bourse. the mirror is the worlds largest reflecting pool of water. Constructed from slabs of granite, the surface is flooded with water to a depth of only 2cm. As the flow of water stops, the surface gradually clears to create a perfect mirror much loved by locals and visitors alike. The cycle repeats every 20-30 minutes to replenish the water which gradually drains away. There is even a system to create mist which gives an intriguing and alternative view. It gets very busy at times and you may have to wait awhile to get that perfect photo as adults and children just love going for a paddle.

4. One of the worlds greatest wine regions. The Bordeaux region produces somewhere around 700 million bottles of wine per year, 90% of which is red, some of which is the most expensive wine in the world. The good news is that the wine regions are relatively close to the city and make for an ideal day out from the city. You can hire an car or join one of the day trips that leave the city each day. A chateau visit is a great way to see how this famous wine is made and visits always finish with a short tasting. It is worth noting that for many of the well known chateau an appointment is necessary prior to visiting. This can usually be done via the chateau’s website and the advantage of this system usually means that you have your own private tour for as little as 15 euros in some cases.

5. Food. As in many towns and cities in France food is taken very seriously indeed. There are numerous options to suit all manner of budgets. If queues are anything to go by L’Entrecote (4 Cours de 30 Juillet) is a big favourite. When it opens at 7.15 there around 100 people waiting to get in. The queue moves quickly however as the restaurant is large. It is a set menu of steak, chips and salad with very reasonably priced drinks. It offers great value. Nearby, opposite the Opera House, the Grand Hotel offers a  more formal experience in the Gordon Ramsey restaurant L’Pressoir d’Argent which holds two Michelin stars. Les Noailles (12 Allées de Tourney) offers a traditional French bistro style experience.

The Canele is a small rum flavoured cake that is filled with a light custard which can be found in many shops and cafés of the city. They can be eaten for breakfast or as a snack with a cup of coffee. Well worth trying.

 

La Cité du Vin

In 2009 Alain Juppé, the mayor of Bordeaux, proposed that the city built a museum to celebrate the importance of wine to the city and the surrounding region. Furthermore it would also show how wine was important to heritage and culture of peoples around the world. It would be a wine museum like no other.

In 2011 an industrial site by the river and close to the district of Chartrons, where the city’s wine merchants had their cellars, was purchased. Construction began in 2012 and the building was finally open to the public on 1st June 2016. The total cost of the project was 94 million euros.

The design was by means of a competition which was eventually one by a firm of Parisian architects, chosen from a shortlist of five. To many it resembles a decanter but the winning design was not intended to be figurative. Rather the design was to have a roundness and flexibility to reflect the nearby River Garonne. However you look at it the building is stunning and a real contrast to the more formal style of architecture seen in and around the city. Over two thousand aluminium panels have been used to create the swirling base and 940 glass panels in the tower. The public areas are constructed of 524 laminated wooden arches, used to create the impression that you are inside a barrel as you walk through the exhibits.

The easiest way of getting to the museum is by tram. Line B will take you from central Bordeaux to the museum for less than 2 euros. The trams are modern, clean, comfortable and a great way to get around the city. Timing your visit may seriously affect the experience. In winter there may be 300-500 visitors per day but this can rise to 2000=3000 on weekends at the height of summer. You can avoid queues for tickets by purchasing online, a sensible plan if it looks like it might be busy. Whatever the season early in the day is a good time to begin your visit as you can easily spend all day here. On the day of our visit on a weekday in early October the museum was relatively quiet.

The ground floor is devoted to ticketing and cloakroom but there its also a shop, a rather  impressive wine cave and a small brasserie serving some very nice food indeed. It makes an excellent spot for lunch.

The first floor covers workshop space and temporary exhibitions. You can book a wine workshop when buying general admission and they are delivered in English as well as French. There is also a rather fine library and reading room which is open to everyone and the Thomas Jefferson auditorium for larger meetings and events.

It is on the second floor where you will find the permanent exhibition. This consists of 19 different themed areas which you can plan your own route through. The admission price includes an audio guide which is available in eight different languages. Sensors on the exhibits trigger the relevant piece of audio for your own immersive experience.  The exhibition is interactive and multi sensory. A lot of thought has gone into giving you useful information in a fun and engaging way. I particularly enjoyed the video walls showing aerial footage of the worlds major wine regions, the photography here was stunning. There is a series of bell jars from which you can explore the scents associated with wine, an in-depth interactive explanation of cultivating vines and of course an area devoted to the wines of Bordeaux. The best thing about the permanent exhibition is that there is something for everyone, it appeals to all ages and levels of interest in the world of wine.

To end your visit your ticket also includes a wine tasting in the Belvedere Bar at the top of the tower, which also gives superb panoramic views of the surrounding area. You can choose your tasting sample from the sixteen or so wines on offer. The roof of the bar has been constructed from 3800 litre glass bottles and makes quite an impressive sight.

You can take your glass of wine out onto the viewing platform to enjoy the view.

A perfect ending to a great day at a superb museum. The city can be justifiably proud of such a magnificent attraction.