Review of 2019

Entering the new year we had no plans to go anywhere until a trip to Portugal in early March but you know what they say about plans. A great deal with Iceland Air saw us heading to Iceland for a short four day break at the end of January. What a trip it was, a huge fall of snow the day before we arrived made a true winter wonderland. Cold with clear blue sky by day and the right atmospheric conditions to see the northern lights at night. Iceland is a magical place and re have tentative plans to return in the summer months and drive a circuit of the country.

We had two trips to Portugal in 2019, the first in March saw some pleasantly warm days which we used to good effect to explore parts of the Algarve by train. The result of dipping out toes into the region in spring was that we booked a much longer trip for November, renting an apartment through Airbnb for a very favourable out of season rate. The short November days were sunny and pleasantly warm and this time, with the help of a hire care, were able to really explore the region. At the end of our stay we took the train from Faro to Lisbon for a few days and had a great time exploring the city but the weather was rather changeable.

A return to Berlin in the late spring had been much anticipated and the city did not disappoint. Having done the main touristy the previous autumn this trip allowed us time to explore the neighbourhoods of Friedrichshain and Kreutzberg. We are real fans of walking tours and an excellent tour of the street art of Berlin was one of the highlights of the trip.

The wedding of friends in Provence in early July gave us the opportunity for a slow meander across southern France on our way there. Flying into Toulouse we enjoyed the medieval city of Carcassonne and the wine growing regions of the Languedoc. A visit and tasting at Mas de Daumas Gassac was probably the highlight here. Provence itself was very hot but a very enjoyable weekend of celebrations was had by all. As with the Algarve a trip to the sights of Provence is probably best enjoyed out of season and we plan to return as soon as we can.

Finally a trip to Krakow in early September and what an amazing city it was and so cheap compared to many cities in Europe. There is so much to do in the area but visits to the salt mines at Wieliczka and the former concentration camp at Auschwitz should be at the top of any must do list for visitors.

As we begin 2020 we’re finalising plans for a return trip to Australia so there is lots more to come.

5 Reasons to Visit the Languedoc

The Weather. The Languedoc has a mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and rainy, wet winters. It annually receives 300 days of sunshine on average and in the months of July and August the temperature can reach 30 Celsius. The average annual temperature is 15 degrees. The area also can be quite windy, in the summer months The Tramontane comes from the north west and brings a cooling influence in the hot summer months. For many early autumn is a great time to visit the region with clear blue skies and warm temperatures.

The History. The Languedoc region is steeped in history, from the Roman amphitheatre and Tour Magne in Nimes, the Pont du Gard to the medieval city of Carcassonne you won’t feel short changed. There is much do see, do and admire. The region also has its own language, Occitan, however you are unlikely to hear in spoken in everyday use.

The Wine. Vines have been grown here for over two thousand years and the Languedoc is the largest wine growing region in the world with over 245,ooo hectares of vines spread over 36 appellations. In total the production of wine annually is in the region of 1.2 billion litres. In the past the Languedoc was seen as producing large volumes of ordinary wines for the mass market in France but this has changed in the last twenty years or so. New growers have been attracted here, driven partly by the cheaper land prices than in other wine growing regions and by the opportunities to experiment and be innovative. The first organic vineyards were in the Languedoc region. The result is that wines of the region offer great value for money and are well worth investigating.

The Landscape. Much of the region has a wild, natural beauty with small, beautiful villages and stunning views. There is also 200km of coastline with sandy beaches and the welcome cooling waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Away from the autoroutes driving is a pleasure as the roads are relatively quiet and are in good order. There are many stunning drives to be undertaken taking in hill villages and getting you right to the heart of the region and discovering its culture.

The Canal du Midi. Opened as long ago as 1681 and given its current name 100 years later it stretches 150 miles from Toulouse to the Mediterranean Sea. Originally built to carry freight, principally wheat and wine, it today is used for recreation and tourism and is one of the great wonders of France. Boats can be rented for holidays on the water or bikes can be hired to cycle alongside the canal. The banks of the canal are also very pleasant for walking with trees giving shade from the hot summer sun.

Carcassonne Drive

Carcassonne is a wonderful place to visit but it does get very busy. Combining a visit to the city with a drive in the surrounding countryside is a good way to get away from the crowds and get a feel for the local area. If you are short on time this trip can could be done in half a day if you wanted to combine it with a morning visit to La Cité or you can take your time and explore a little more of some of the towns and villages en route.

Leave Carcassone on the D6113 and head to the village of Pennautier. As you enter you will see Chateau Pennautier which has buildings on either side of the road. To the left is the tasting room and restaurant. Here you can taste a selection of the property’s recent vintages and purchase the wine. Next door is the restaurant which is a lovely place for lunch. They also do tours of the winery but they require prebooking, especially in the summer months.

Head back to the D6113 and then take the D629 to Montolieu, a hill town which is known for the large number of secondhand bookshops, fifteen or so at the last count! It is very a haven for writers and artists and well worth a visit. The road through the town is narrow and steep in places but don’t let that put you off. its well worth the effort.

From Montolieu carry on on the D629 to Saissac. Here you will find superb views of the Vernassonne Gorge and a ruined Cathar Castle which can date its origins back to the eleventh century although the ruins on view date from the sixteenth.

Leave Saissac on the D103 for a very pleasant drive to St Papoul. The Abbey of St Papoul is a Benedictine abbey which was first appears in documents in 817. The cloister here was built in the early part of the fourteenth century, it is a lovely, quiet place to spend a few moments.

Heading back onto the D103 will bring you to the town of Castelnaudary which is home to the French Foreign Legion and lays claim to be the World Capital of Cassoulet. You can certainly eat a lot of cassoulet here if you so choose. Castelnaudary is also on the Canal du Midi and the banks of the canal are great for walking and cycling. Just outside the town is the village of Mas Saintes Puelles where you can pick up signs to Poterie NOT Frères which occupies a charming location on the bank of the canal next to a stone bridge crossing. This is where you can see the traditional vessel for cooking cassoulet being made and you can even buy one as a souvenir to take home.

From Castelnaudary you can return to Carcassonne either by the D6113 or take the much faster A61 autoroute.