Carcassonne is in the Languedoc region of south west France and is about an hours drive from the city of Toulouse. It is in reality two towns that sit side by side. La Cité is a medieval fortification that once defended the old border between France and Spain. Located on a hill it gives commanding views of the surrounding countryside. At the foot of the hill sits the ‘new town’ but which is itself also pretty old, dating back to the thirteenth century.
La Cité can trace its origins back over two thousand years when it was a defensive position against the Roman Empire. Over the following centuries it was occupied by many different tribes. It was the principal stronghold of the Cathar religion in the late twelfth century. Followers were seen as challenging the authority of the powerful Catholic Church and the fortress was besieged by the Papal crusaders in the early part of the thirteenth century, sent by Rome to bring the Cathars back into line.
The city’s fortunes were to diminish by the end of the seventeenth century and it began to fall into disrepair and eventually ruin. Eventually the decision was made in the nineteenth century that is should be demolished. Much to the surprise of the authorities there was a ground swell of protest which led to reversal of the decision and the drawing up of plans to renovate the site. The restoration took over 50 years and resulted in the fortifications we can see today. This is how the citadel would have looked in the thirteenth century.
In 1997 it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status and has become France’s second most popular tourist attraction (after the Eiffel Tour), attracting over three million visitors a year, that’s an average of over eight thousand a day! Not surprisingly it is well geared up for tourists and there are some souvenir shops that are perhaps best avoided but there are also some others which make a real effort to show the best that the city and region has to offer.
Things to do in La Cité
- Visit Chateau Comtal. The chateau dates from the twelfth century and is well worth the 9 Euro entrance fee. Indeed once you have paid you can leave and return later in the same day if you want to take a break for refreshments. Audio tours and guided tours are available.
- Walk the Ramparts. For superb views of the city and the surrounding countryside you can’t beat a walk on the ramparts. Access is included with your ticket to the Chateau. It is a lovely walk but quite strenuous in places with steps up and down.
- Walk the Lices. La Cité is surrounded by a double wall, the inner wall being up to a thousand years older than the outer. In earlier times the space between had dwellings built against the inner wall but today all that remains is a wide grassy area between the two walls and that makes an excellent place for a gentle stroll.
- Basilique St-Nazaire. Built on the site of a former fifth century church this gothic style building dates back to the twelfth century. It has some very nice stained glass windows.
- Lady Carkass Statue. Wife of a Saracen king and the one that gave the city its name. Located ext to the Porte Narbonnaise it is not the original statue but is still pretty impressive.
- Wander the streets. The streets of La Cité are perfect for wandering around. The Place Marcou is jam packed with cafés but there are also many others and some nice restaurants dotted across the city. There are also some really nice shops.
Most people visit either by car or on a coach tour. The best time to arrive is early, before the crowds, if you prefer a slightly quieter experience. There is plenty of parking adjacent to the Porte Narbonnaise and a further car park just a short walk away. Both are pay on exit and the machines take card payments.
Carcassone railway station is in the new town and is served by TGV services from Toulouse, Lyon and Barcelona as well as intercity services from Bordeaux, Montpellier and Marseille. There are also local services from Narbonne and Limoux.
