City Break | Postcards From Here and There

48 Hours in Lisbon

Lisbon is an ideal location for a weekend city break and is only a short flight from the UK. The airport is located only short distance from the city so transfers by metro or taxi are relatively quick and straightforward. There is a lot to see and do in the city so here are some suggestions for a couple of days in the city.

Take Tram 28

Running from Praca Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique Tram 28 has become a top tourist attraction. The forty or so minute journey delivers some of the best of Lisbon though you will need to be lucky to see it in comfort. It is so popular that it has become crowded for most of the day with many passengers standing making it difficult to see much at all at times. For the best chance get there early to increase your chance of getting a seat for what is one of the best shows in town.

Take a Walking Tour

I am a great fan of walking tours and always try to take one in as soon after arrival as possible. Sandemans offer a free three hour walking tour in either English or Spanish which gives an excellent introduction to the city and its history. tours start form 10am by the statue at Praica Luis de Camoes and finishes at Praca do Comercio. Although free it is always best to prebook a place via their website.

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Built by the Moors and dating from the mid eleventh century it has undergone significant renovations over the years to create the castle you see today but it is everything you would expect. Built on one of Lisbon’s hills it offers great views of the city and beyond. Open seven days aweek, there is a 10 Euro admission charge but once inside there is plenty to see and a number of free tours are available.

Walk the Streets of Alfama

The district of Alfama lies between the castle and the river and is one of the oldest parts of the city. Its steep, narrow, cobbled streets are flanked by small houses and shops. Once the poorest area of Lisbon it is now undergoing some development but this hasn’t as yet changed it too much. It is easy to get lost here as you wander around but that is part of the experience and don’t let that put you off, someone will always point you in the right direction. If you prefer there are walking tours of Alfama, well worth a small charge for the expert guiding you receive. There are great views of the city from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Sample Fado Music

Fado originated in Alfama in the early part of the nineteenth century and can now be enjoyed in many parts of the country. Fado is sad, melancholic and bittersweet but is also so much more than that. There are a number of restaurants and clubs that offer dinner complete with a Fado performance most evenings in Alfama. The Museu do Fado on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro is worth a visit if you want to delve into the genre further.

Praco do Comercio

A huge plaza which leads down to the river Tejo. Built following the earthquake of 1755 it is a grand space that is closely related to the history of the city and is a great place to sit at the base of the statue of Dom Jose and take a breather from sight seeing. It is also the meeting place for some of the walking tours of the city.

Arco de Rua Augusta

Also known as Arco da Vitoria it is a triumphal arch with great views of the Price do Comercio, the river and city. Whatsmore it doesn’t attract the queues often seen at the nearby Elevador de Santa Justa and the views are excellent. An elevator followed by a narrow stone staircase leads to the viewing platform on the roof. When we were there there were only two other visitors. If you want a view of the city without a wait this is for you.

Torre de Belem

Located at the mouth of the river Tejo and just a short bus/tram ride from the city centre the tower has guarded the approach to the city since 1515. It is an impressive sight and a popular tourist attraction. You can climb the tower but be prepared to wait as queues are often long.

Padrao des Descobrimentos

Overlooking the Tejo and just a short walk from the tower is the Padrao des Descobrimentos. Unveiled in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator it is a most amazing sculpture full of all the significant Portugese who played a role in the age of discovery.

Museu Coleccao Berardo

This is a wonderful museum of modern art with all the big players represented. Situated in Belem close to the other attractions it is an oasis of clam and tranquility. As visitors queue for the tower or jostle to get that perfect photo for instagram the museum is quiet by comparison. if you like modern art you’ll love this place.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Built in 1501 to celebrate the opening of a sea route to India by Vasco de Gama the monastery is a real jewel in Lisbon’s crown. It can get very busy at times so it may be best to visit as it opens at 10am. A visit to the Belem would not be complete without a visit here. There is a charge for entry to the cloister but it is free on the first Sunday of the month. Entrance to the church is free at all times.

Eat Custard Tarts

To be honest you can’t eat enough of these and they are available at Pastelarias all over the city. If you want to try the original then visit Casa Pasteis de Belem which is just a few short steps away from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. This is where they were first made in the early part of the nineteenth century and the recipe hasn’t changed since. They are best served warm with just the lightest sprinkling of icing sugar but eat them anyway you like, you won’t be disappointed. There is also a cafe here which can seat up to 400.

Travel on a Funicular Railway

Lisbon is built on seven hills and some of them are steep and punishing to climb. Lisbon has three funicular railways

Ascensor da Glória. This connects Praça dos Restauradores with the Bairro Alto district. You will pass some excellent street art are as you ascend/descend the hill.

Ascensor da Bica. This connects Rua de São Paulo and Largo do Calhariz and ascends one of Lisbon’s steepest hills. It’s popular as it offers some good photo opportunities.

Ascensor do Lavra. This is the oldest of the funiculars in the city. It can be the quietest of them so may well be for you if you don’t fancy a queue at busy times.

Eat and Drink in the Bairro Alto

If you walk the narrow, steep streets of the Bairro Alto during the day you could be forgiven for thinking that not much is going on in this district. Return in the evening and you will be amazed by the transformation. This is the place to be for restaurants, bars and clubs and every visitor should try the area at least once during their visit to the city. There are numerous restaurants here but we particularly enjoyed Primeiro de Maio and Bota Alta, both on Rua Atalaia, serving local, traditional dishes at very reasonable prices. Two excellent wines bars here are BA Wine Bar (107 Rua Da Rosa) and Garrafeira Alfaia (125 Rua do Diaro de Noticias). Both serve food and have really helpful staff if you are unsure which Portugese wines to try. They are small so you may need to reserve a table but both do walk ins.

15 Things to do in Liverpool

Liverpool has so much to offer the visitor and it is easy to see why it is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination. The city has a rich heritage and visitors will not be short of things to see or do. In this post I examine the tourist attractions in and around the city centre, most of which are within walking distance of each other.

Take a Ferry Across The Mersey. There has been a ferry crossing the River Mersey for over 800 years and the peak they were carrying millions of mainly commuters a year. Those days are long gone but the ferry does still run a commuter service in the morning and late afternoon but for the rest of the day it offers river cruises starting from 10am. Local band Gerry and the Pacemakers immortalised the crossing in their 1964 hit single Ferry Cross The Mersey.

The Waterfront at Pier Head. The Liverpool waterfront is world famous and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Consisting of the three graces, The Royal Liver Building, The Cunard Building and The Port of Liverpool Building, it is an imposing and magnificent site. One can only wonder how Liverpool sailors must have felt entering The Mersey after months at sea to be greeted by such iconic landmarks.

The Museum of Liverpool. Telling the story of Liverpool and its people its a great way to get to know some of the history of the city that isn’t always covered in the travel guides. Currently housing the John and Yoko Lennon Double Fantasy exhibition until 22nd April 2019.

The Royal Albert Dock. When it was built in 1846 it revolutionised dockside wharehouse design. It was the first of its type to contain no wooden timbers as part of its structure thus reducing the risk of catastrophic fires. The dock was one of the first regeneration projects in the city in the 1980s and it quickly became a tourist destination with its numerous cafés, shops and restaurants. Today it is also home to some of the cities best museums.

The Merseyside Maritime Museum. A museum dedicated to the historical importance of the sea to the city. Not only was it a major shipping port but it was also the point of embarkation for those seeking a new life overseas.. There is much to admire here including The Titanic and Liverpool exhibition which tells the story of the close association between the two.

Tate Liverpool. Located in the Albert Dock it is the home of modern and contemporary art. Since it opened in 1988 it has hosted many exhibitions of internationally renowned artists. It is always worth checking what’s on at the Tate when in the city. The galleries afford some excellent view over the river Mersey.

The Beatles Story. You cannot come to Liverpool and not do something Beatles related while here. There is much to see in and around the city and this is a good place to start for those that want to find out more about the history of “four lads that shook the world” back in the 1960s. See a recreation of the Cavern Club to experience what it was like back in those heady days.

Find Liverpools Musical Statues. If The Beatles Story has whet your appetite then why not seek out the musical statues around the city that celebrate Liverpool’s music history. as well as The Beatles you can discover Billy Fury, Cilla Black and Ken Dodd. You can even have a photo taken sat alongside Eleanor Rigby.

Mathew Street and The Cavern. No visit to Liverpool would be complete without a visit to Mathew Street, home of the Cavern Club. There is a lot packed in to to such a short street including statues, the wall of fame and the site of Erics club which did much for the local bands that came after The Beatles such as Echo & the Bunneymen and The Teardrop Explodes. You can visit the Cavern and catch some live music, sadly it’s not the original but has been lovingly reconstructed. There are often buskers performing in the street, Beatles songs naturally.

Bold Street. There are plenty of shopping opportunities in Liverpool including the huge Liverpool One complex. If, however, you are looking for something a little different then head to Bold Street in the Ropewalks area of the city. Here you will find many independent retailers, cafés and restaurants. It is fast becoming the beating heart of the city.

Liverpool Cathedrals. There aren’t many cities that can boast two impressive cathedrals. Liverpool can and they are separated by the appropriately named Hope Street. They couldn’t be anymore different. The Anglican Cathedral, built in the Gothic style took over seventy years to build. The Metropolitan Cathedral, known affectionately as “Paddy’s Wigwam” by the Liverpudlians, was opened in 1967.

Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral

The Philharmonic Dining Rooms. Conveniently located half way along Hope Street it is a good place for a refreshment break while in this part of town. Don’t let the name fool you, the Phil is a pub. It was here that Paul McCartney made a surprise appearance as part of the filming of Carpool Karaoke with James Corden.Perhaps best known for ornate gents toilets, made from rose coloured marble. They are grade 1 listed such is their importance, a higher grading than the building in which they are housed.

The Bombed Out Church. The church of St Luke as it is officially know is located on the corner of Leece Street and Berry Street. The church was hit by an incendiary bomb on 6th May 1941, destroying all but the retaining walls. It was left as a memorial to those that died in the Liverpool Blitz.

Chinatown. A short walk along Berry Street from St Lukes and you enter Chinatown, home to the oldest Chinese community in Europe.There are records showing that Chinese immigrants were here as long ago as 1834 and grew businesses including restaurants and supermarkets. The arch at the top of Nelson Street was opened on Chinese New Year in 2000 and it is a magnificent structure, built by craftsmen from Shanghai.

Eat Scouse. Scouse was originally the food of the workers and seafarers of Liverpool but can still be found today in some of the city’s pubs, café and restaurants. Made from either beef or lamb along with vegetables it is a heartwarming stew, ideal to power you through sightseeing. Blind Scouse doesn’t have any meat in it. The exact recipe varies a little but don’t suggest something new, a recent suggestion of adding parsnips didnt go down very well with connoisseurs. The Ship and Mite on Dale Street and Maggie Mays Cafe on Bold Street are just two places that you can try it as it should be made.

Things to do in Berlin

Berlin is a fascinating city to visit and is an ideal location for a weekend or short break. There is something here for everyone here; history a plenty, great museums of all kinds, some fine shopping and an excellent bar and restaurant scene.

Reichstag

Since unification the Reichstag is the seat of the German parliament. The glass dome gives superb views of the city but must be pre-booked as it is very popular. You can do this here

Brandenburg Gate

The Brandenburg Gate with its sculpture of the winged goddess of victory atop is a potent symbol of the city. In the Cold War it represented the division of the city but now serves as a symbol for German unification. Get there early to avoid the crowds.

Holocaust Memorial

The memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe opened in 2005. It was designed by Peter Eisenman and consists of 2711 concrete columns called stelae arranged over an area about the size of a football field. The ground underfoot rises and falls as you walk between the columns and their close proximity to each other give a sense of discomfort and disorientation. There is an information centre is located underneath the monument and should not be missed. An audio guide is available for a small charge (3 euros). It is a very moving experience indeed as you discover something about families involved in the holocaust. The Room of Names gives the name and a short biography of all those Jews that were murdered or missing. It would take nearly seven years to hear them all.

Potsdamer Platz

Potsdamer Platz was destroyed by the building of the Berlin Wall in the 1960s. Since the wall came down it was been reborn and is a busy and thriving area. Home to the Sony Centre, shops and restaurants, cafés and bars it is now hard to image that it was once a place of division and separation. Panels from the wall can be seen outside the S-bahn station where there is a short but informative display

Hitler’s Bunker

You could walk past and not be any the wiser as all that remains today is a car park and an information display that shows the layout of the bunker complex. It also details how the bunker was collapsed and filled in following the end of the war.

Checkpoint Charlie

During the Cold War this was the main crossing for foreigners to pass into East Berlin. In October 1961 it was the site of a standoff between American and Russian tanks which made the world hold its breath for 16 hours. Today it’s a tourist trap where you can pay 3 euros to have your photograph taken with a fake border guard. Nevertheless it is worth a visit to help understand just how divided this city was.

Gendarmenmarkt

Just a short walk fro Checkpoint Charlie but a different world away. A square with two cathedrals, the German and French, and the Berlin concert hall. Its grand,imposing and a most beautiful square. The area around the square is full of bars and restaurants so is an ideal spot to stop for a refreshing break from all the sightseeing.

East Side Gallery

A preserved section of the Berlin Wall that is now home to over 100 murals is a must see on any visit to Berlin. You may not like all the art but you can’t fail to be touched by some of the messages of hope and reconciliation. Get there early to avoid the crowds. I have a more detailed post about it here

Friedrichshain

Home to the East Side Gallery, Friedrichshain is a neighbourhood well worth spending some time in. A former working class area which has evolved since the fall of the wall to become an area full of restaurants, bars and clubs with an artsy side. The area around Boxhagener Platz is particularly vibrant and the square itself is a welcome area of green space. North of the square is Karl Marx Allee. A jewel in the crown of East Berlin when it was constructed in the late 1950s. This incredibly wide boulevard is flanked by apartment blocks and was the scene of military parades. Today it is an opportunity to wonder at some of the functional architecture of the eastern block.

DDR Museum

Almost opposite the Berliner Dom just before you cross onto museum island this small museum explains, by means of a large number of interactive displays, what life was like in the former East Germany. I found the experience to be very good but it was very busy and I would suggest getting here early.

Gedenkstätte Berliner Maur

The Berlin Wall memorial is includes a fully preserved section of the Berlin Wall where you can see the border wall on the western side (nearest in photo) and the inner wall on the eastern side. Between then was the death strip, complete with floodlights and watchtowers. There is an information centre which shows an excellent film in English every hour on the half hour. The nearby documentation centre includes a tower which gives you a view over the area.

There is so much to see and do in Berlin that we couldn’t possibly do it all in just two and a half days. We didn’t have time visit any of the world renown museums on museum island for example. Not to worry though, Berlin is a city that is well worth a revisit in the near future.