Fleurieu Peninsula Top 5

The Fleurieu Peninsula is an hours drive south of Adelaide in South Australia. It is a delightful area to explore as it is largely unexploited by large scale commercial tourism and so is a quiet and tranquil area so close to a large city. The cooling influence of ocean on three sides results in a climate that avoids excessive heat in the summer while still being warm and pleasant. The area is renown for its wines, beaches and cuisine made with local produce. Often overlooked by tourists to South Australia it is well worth spending a couple of days here.

The McLaren Vale. The McLaren Vale is one of Australia’s oldest wine regions with vines first planted as long ago as 1838. The regions reputation as one of Australia’s best is centred around its red wines, most notably Shiraz but there are so many other wines to explore here including some superb old vine Grenache and a range of exciting whites. With over 65 cellar doors open to the public for tastings there is much to discover in the region. Many visitors head for the futuristic looking tasting room at d’Arenberg and the experience here is like no other in the region as it also includes the Alternative Realities Museum as well as an exhibition of fine art. There are however many other fantastic places to visit, personal favourites of mine include Coriole, Battle of Bosworth and Yangarra. To get the best out of the area pick up a map of the wine region from the tourist information centre situated at 796 Main Road at the northern end of the town of McLaren Vale. I have written separate articles about the region in general and visits to d’Arenberg and Yangarra.

The d’Arenberg Cube

Willunga. A short drive south fromMcLaren Vale is the town of Willunga. The distance may well be short but the two towns couldn’t be more different. Willunga is one of the oldest towns in South Australia and can date its origins back to the 1840s and it retains much of the old town feel where times moves at a gentle pace.The Main Street has a great selection of cafés, restaurants, bars and shops. It is a place to linger over that cup of coffee and just let the hustle and bustle of the day pass you by. If you are lucky enough to visit at the weekend then don’t miss the much heralded Willunga Farmers Market which is held in the town every Saturday morning, it offers some of the best produce that the region has to offer.Visitors in January (exact dates vary) may catch the colour and excitement of a stage of the Tour Down Under cycle race which tradtionally includes an ascent of Willunga which ascends as you head south out of the town.

Victor Harbor. The town of Victor Harbor on the south coast of the peninsula is about as busy as it gets, especially in the summer m months when it becomes the go to holiday destination of the region. The highlight for me was Granite Island which is linked t the town by a wood built pier. A horse drawn tram is a big attraction and will take you across in relative comfort but it is also a pleasant walk if you are on a budget. Once on the island a well defined path, complete with strategically placed sculptures, takes you on a circuit of the island and affords some stunning coastal and sea views. If you walk in an anticlockwise direction you will finish at the café which makes good refreshment stop. It is a pleasant walk, relatively short but with much to recommend it. If you visit Victor Harbor between June and September you can take whale watch trips to see migrating Southern Right Whales. The South Australian Whale Centre on Railway Terrace is the place to visit for all the information you may need. The Encounter Bikeway is a 31Km path that links Victor Harbor with the beach town of Goolwa, passing through the pretty town of Port Elliot. We struggled to find suitable bike hire on our visit which was disappointing but probably says something about our lack of planning as it was very much a spur of the moment decision to ride it.

Beaches. The Fleurieu Peninsula has more than its fair share of magnificent beaches many of which are big enough for a good walk and finding your own spot well away from other visitors. Many are just a short drive from Adelaide and make for a perfect day trip from the city if you don’t have time to explore the region in full. These include Christies, Maslin which has some wonderful cliffs with layers of different colours, Sellick/Aldinga which allow vehicles to be driven onto the sand though visitors will have to pay a small fee and Port Willunga. Further afield there are great beaches at the southern end of the peninsula including Goolwa and Horseshoe Bay in Port Elliot. No visit to South Australia is complete without a visit to the beach and you are spoilt for choice.

Aldinga Beach

Cape Jervis. At the southern tip of the peninsula is the small town of Cape Jervis. From here you can catch the ferry to Kangaroo Island which sails hourly between 9am and 7pm in the summer but with fewer daily sailings in the winter. The Cape Jervis Lighthouse located on the headland has been in operation since 1871 but the current structure replace the original in1972. Its design is somewhat unusual being in the form of an inverted pyramid. The Deep Creek Conservation Park is just a short drive east of Cape Jervis and is the largest area of natural vegetation on the peninsula. With walking trails and camping grounds it provides the perfect opportunity to see wildlife in its natural habitat.

Visiting the McLaren Vale

The McLaren Vale wine region is located on the Fleureu Peninsula, some 38Km south of Adelaide in South Australia. The vineyards are entered around the towns of McLaren Vale, which is quite modern and has a good range of shops, and Wilunga, which is smaller and a little quainter. There is an excellent tourist information office located on the outskirts of McLaren Vale (796 Main Road) where you can pick up an excellent map showing the location of cellar doors as well as lots of other useful details for a stay in the area.

McLaren Vale Wine Facts

  • The area was named after either David McLaren, a businessman, or John McLaren, a land surveyor, who were both in the area in the mid nineteenth century.
  • It is one of Australia’s oldest wine regions with vines first planted in 1838 and the region has remained free of Phylloxera.
  • There are now 7324 hectares under vine
  • It has a Mediterranean climate with four distinct seasons and typified by long warms days and short cool nights.
  • There are many different soil types in the region and this contributes to why such a range of wines can be produced here.
  • There are no recognised sub regions but some say Blewitt Springs would be a likely contender should any be created.
  • It is perhaps best known for Shiraz and this grape makes up over half the plantings though Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache are also very important.
  • There are 110 wineries and 65 cellar doors

With so many cellar doors open it certainly pays to have a plan, particularly if you only have a short time to visit. We spent three days in the area and combined wine tasting with things such as visiting the excellent nearby beaches. If you only have time for a single visit go to d’Arenberg, it is unlike any other cellar door I have ever visited and they have a very comprehensive range of wines which should give you a good idea about the wines that can be produced in the region. It is also much more than just a cellar door with an art gallery and a somewhat eccentric museum of sorts. You won’t be disappointed if you visit, just leave yourself enough time to take it all in. I would suggest at least a couple of hours. I have a separate post about d’Arenberg here.

The futuristic d’Arenberg Cube

From d’Arenberg there are lots of options for visits, this was our itinerary.

S. C. Pannell. (60 Olivers Road). Open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm. The tasting room overlooks the vines and is a pleasant environment for sampling some rather nice wines. We particularly enjoyed the 2017 Clarendon Hills Grenache and the 2017 The Vale Shiraz/Grenache.

Alpha Box and Dice. (8 Olivers Road). Open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm from Monday to Friday and 10am to 6pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Winemaker Sam Berketa makes characterful and interesting wines which use minimum intervention to get a true expression of each variety. They have embarked on producing an alphabet of wine with each letter representing a separate wine making project. We enjoyed the 2019 Rebel Rebel Montepulciano from vineyards in Langhorne Creek and produced without fining or filtration to produced a very drinkable wine laden with cherry fruit. The Lazarus NV Ripasso from South Australia was also rather fine. Tatings take place in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Well worth a visit if you enjoy the natural side of winemaking.

Coriole Vineyards. (Chaffeys Road). Open 11am to 4pm from Monday to Friday and 11am to 5pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Located a short drive along a track from the main road, Coriole looks the very part of an English country garden with a restaurant and deli in addition to the tasting room.

The Chenin Blancs are very good here, especially the 2016 Optimists Reserve but the star of the tasting was the 2010 Mary Kathleen Reserve Cabernet/Merlot, a lovely expression of the McLaren Vale with mature dark berry and plummy fruit.

Chapel Hill Winery. (Chapel Hill Road & Chaffeys Road). Open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm. Just a short drive from Coriole, turn left on leaving and then right to Chapel Hill. A very popular destination and a lovely relaxed tasting room despite how busy it was. A nice range of wines available for tasting including a rather fine Gorge Block Chardonnay 2018 with lovely texture and great finish. From the reds we particularly enjoyed the 1897 Grenache 2018 and the Road Block Shiraz 2017.

I have always been a lover of Grenache, if its from old bush vines even better. There is lots of Grenache available in the McLaren Vale but to sample it at its best requires a short 2o minute drive from the town of McLaren Vale to Yangarra (809 McLaren Flat Road). It’s a little way out from the main concentration of wineries and cellar doors, located as it is in Blewitt Springs, but it is well worth the effort. The wines here were excellent and I will post a separate article about our visit here shortly. The 2015 High Sands Grenache was the star of the show with cherry, violets and a beguiling complexity. Yangarra is open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 5pm.

Our final visit was to Battle of Bosworth wines (Gaffney Road). The cellar door is open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm. Located close to the quaint, small town of Willunga, just south of McLaren Vale, we called in late on a Friday afternoon after spending a few hours on nearby Sellicks Beach. Despite the late hour we could not have been made more welcome and were offered a comprehensive tasting of wines including those from Spring Seed and the Springs Road estate which is located on Kangaroo Island. We loved the Puritan Shiraz 2019, so named because it is made preservative free, and the 2016 White Boar Shiraz.

If you are fortunate enough to be in the area on a weekend don’t miss the Willunga Farmers Market, held in the centre of town every Saturday from 8am to 12.30pm. It is a lovely little market with some fantastic produce on offer and is very popular with locals and visitors alike. Get there early for the greatest choice. The town is well worth spending some time in, it has an excellent selection of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants.