La Cité du Vin

In 2009 Alain Juppé, the mayor of Bordeaux, proposed that the city built a museum to celebrate the importance of wine to the city and the surrounding region. Furthermore it would also show how wine was important to heritage and culture of peoples around the world. It would be a wine museum like no other.

In 2011 an industrial site by the river and close to the district of Chartrons, where the city’s wine merchants had their cellars, was purchased. Construction began in 2012 and the building was finally open to the public on 1st June 2016. The total cost of the project was 94 million euros.

The design was by means of a competition which was eventually one by a firm of Parisian architects, chosen from a shortlist of five. To many it resembles a decanter but the winning design was not intended to be figurative. Rather the design was to have a roundness and flexibility to reflect the nearby River Garonne. However you look at it the building is stunning and a real contrast to the more formal style of architecture seen in and around the city. Over two thousand aluminium panels have been used to create the swirling base and 940 glass panels in the tower. The public areas are constructed of 524 laminated wooden arches, used to create the impression that you are inside a barrel as you walk through the exhibits.

The easiest way of getting to the museum is by tram. Line B will take you from central Bordeaux to the museum for less than 2 euros. The trams are modern, clean, comfortable and a great way to get around the city. Timing your visit may seriously affect the experience. In winter there may be 300-500 visitors per day but this can rise to 2000=3000 on weekends at the height of summer. You can avoid queues for tickets by purchasing online, a sensible plan if it looks like it might be busy. Whatever the season early in the day is a good time to begin your visit as you can easily spend all day here. On the day of our visit on a weekday in early October the museum was relatively quiet.

The ground floor is devoted to ticketing and cloakroom but there its also a shop, a rather  impressive wine cave and a small brasserie serving some very nice food indeed. It makes an excellent spot for lunch.

The first floor covers workshop space and temporary exhibitions. You can book a wine workshop when buying general admission and they are delivered in English as well as French. There is also a rather fine library and reading room which is open to everyone and the Thomas Jefferson auditorium for larger meetings and events.

It is on the second floor where you will find the permanent exhibition. This consists of 19 different themed areas which you can plan your own route through. The admission price includes an audio guide which is available in eight different languages. Sensors on the exhibits trigger the relevant piece of audio for your own immersive experience.  The exhibition is interactive and multi sensory. A lot of thought has gone into giving you useful information in a fun and engaging way. I particularly enjoyed the video walls showing aerial footage of the worlds major wine regions, the photography here was stunning. There is a series of bell jars from which you can explore the scents associated with wine, an in-depth interactive explanation of cultivating vines and of course an area devoted to the wines of Bordeaux. The best thing about the permanent exhibition is that there is something for everyone, it appeals to all ages and levels of interest in the world of wine.

To end your visit your ticket also includes a wine tasting in the Belvedere Bar at the top of the tower, which also gives superb panoramic views of the surrounding area. You can choose your tasting sample from the sixteen or so wines on offer. The roof of the bar has been constructed from 3800 litre glass bottles and makes quite an impressive sight.

You can take your glass of wine out onto the viewing platform to enjoy the view.

A perfect ending to a great day at a superb museum. The city can be justifiably proud of such a magnificent attraction.

 

Chef’s Table Chester

Music Hall Passage is a narrow alley that connects Northgate Street to St. Werburg Street in Chester and can be used as a short cut from the city centre to the Cathehdral. However if you didn’t know it was there you could easily walk past the entrance on Northgate Street. This would be a shame because Music Hall Passage is home to a very fine restaurant indeed. The Chef’s Table is only small with 30 covers and a tiny kitchen from which they produce some very acceptable food indeed.

We visited at lunchtime on a weekday and were able to get a table without a prior reservation but this might not necessarily be the cast in the evening or at weekends. The lunch menu offers 2 courses for £18 or 3 for £22 which is very good value indeed for the quality on offer. Portions were good sized and we didn’t feel that we needed any side dishes for our particular choices. The menu is comprehensive with a good range of dishes, including vegan options. Ingredients are sourced locally as far as is possible.

Slow cooked octopus with chorizo, sweetcorn summer minestrone and haricot beans
Mushroom and avocado on toasted focaccia and served with red onion chutney
Roast stonebass, smoked haddock, Cheshire saffron risotto and a soft poached egg.

The stonebass was the dish of the day, beautiful fish and rich, creamy risotto.

The wine list is short but offers adequate choice to accompany the dishes on offer. We chose a glass of Gran Cerdo Blanco. Gonzalo Grijalba. Unfortunately I forgot to record the vintage but the 2017 is currently available in stores. This is a natural, organic wine with aromas of apricot, peach  and a lovely floral component that make for a very appealing wine. The palate is medium bodied with lovely balance and lingering flavours of stone fruit. It accompanied the stonebass perfectly and is great value for money.

A very nice lunch. I am sure a return visit is likely.

A Day Out in Chester

The walled city of Chester in the North West of the United Kingdom is  a perfect destination for a day out. Whatsmore many activities in the city can be done for free. The city itself is relatively compact and this makes it ideal for walking and this of course is a great way to take in everything that this wonderful, historic city has to offer.

Walk the City Walls – the origin of the wall dates back to Roman times when they were designed as part of the fortifications of the city. Although modified in the following centuries the wall is almost a complete circle around what was the medieval city boundary. At almost two miles in length a circuit of the walls can be completed in an hour, allowing for a gentle stroll and a few stops for photographs. The busiest section is that around Eastgate where there is also the famous Eastgate Clock.

For much of the rest of the walk you may well be largely on your own depending on the time of year. The walk affords excellent views of the amphitheatre, the River Dee, The Roodee racecourse and Chester Cathedral.

Walk The Rows

The Rows are a series of covered walkways on the main streets which are at the first floor level and give access to a further set of shops. They have existed in Chester since medieval times and are unique to Chester. They are to be found on the four streets that run out from Chester Cross in the centre of the city.

The Town Crier – proclamations are read by the city’s town crier at midday from Tuesday to Saturday in the summer months. At the Chester Cross in the centre of the city

Chester Cathedral – built of red sandstone in the gothic style the cathedral is an imposing structure in the centre of the city. Entry is free but they do suggest voluntary contribution of £4

It is also possible to visit the cathedral gardens where you can see a collection of birds of prey and even watch a display of them in flight. There is however a cost for this of £5 per adult and £4 per child. The entrance to the gardens is b y the city wall.

Roman Amphitheatre – the largest Roman Amphitheatre excavated in the UK and dating back to the first century it is an imposing piece of history surrounded as it is by modern day traffic. Only part of the original structure is visible, the remainder being under buildings, but it is enough to give you sense of the place which was big enough to hold up to seven thousand people.

The River Dee – The Groves is a paved walkway on the bank of the river and is only a short walk from the Amphitheatre and City Walls.

It is a pleasant area and well worth a stop on your tour of the city. From here it is possible to take a river cruise up river or cross the pedestrian bridge to explore Chester Meadows, an area of grassland on the south bank.

Chester also has numerous cafés, restaurants and bars if you are in need of refreshment and just need to relax for a few minutes in busy day sightseeing.