day trip | Postcards From Here and There

The Ria Formosa

The Ria Formosa is a coastal lagoon in the Algarve, southern Portugal and covers an area of 18,000 hectares, stretching from Tavira, in the eastern Algarve to just west of Faro. It was made a National Park in 1987 and is of ecological importance, particularly for its bird life.

A series of barrier islands gives protection from the Atlantic Ocean and as a result the waters are usually flat calm and are relatively shallow.

A number of companies offer tours of the Rio Formosa from the quayside in Faro. A popular option is a 5 hour tour which includes visits to four of the islands and a lunch stop on Culatra Island for which you cover your own costs. Our trip was in a very comfortable catamaran, seating up to 12 people, with guide who is able to give a commentary in a number of different languages.

Ilha Deserta (the deserted island) is a popular island for visitors, especially in the summer, with its beautiful beach facing the Atlantic Ocean You can reach it by Ferry from Faro which runs all year round. It’s deserted in the sense that nobody lives there but there is a cafe/restaurant and toilet facilities. Visiting in early March was fantastic as the number of fellow tourists was very small indeed and you could appreciate the peace and tranquility of the place.

A short boat ride then takes you on to Farol Island complete with is lighthouse built in 1851. There are also some lovely little cottages here, many of which are now holiday homes and rentals. A busier island but still peaceful and quiet at this time of year.

Armona Island is opposite the town of Olhão from where you can pick up a water taxi to the island. Armona is busier with more of a resident population, a small convenience store and a number of cafes.There are still no cars or roads here as on previous islands and its is a nice place to wander aimlessly through the narrow, twisting streets.

The final stop was Culatra Island, also known as Fishermans Island. Here there is a harbour for the fishing boats that service the lslands main economy.

Here you can have lunch if you so desire and what else would you eat but fish. I am a huge fan of simply grilled fish and nowhere does it as well as its done in Portugal. Washed down with a zingy, fresh glass of Vinho Verde its a perfect end to an excellent tour.

It is then a 20/30 minute boat ride back to Faro where you get excellent views of the old town as you approach.

Porta de Piedade Lagos.

The town of Lagos in the western Algarve is 60Km from Faro with a drive of a little over an hour. It is also possible to reach Lagos by train from Faro with a journey time of 90 minutes. Lagos is a pleasant town with an active, modern marina. The highlight of any visit to Lagos has got to be the Porta de Piedade, a headland of limestone cliffs just to the west of the town.

It is possible to access the headland on foot and there are several sets of steps to reach the beaches of Praia de Camilo and Praia Dona Ana. However by far the best way to view the cliffs and rock formations is by boat. There are plenty of tour options from Lagos marina costing around 20 Euros for a 75 minute cruise. Generally the boats used are small, carrying around 8 passengers, enabling them to get close up, through arches and into some of the caves.

The colours of the limestone are incredible, yellow to gold to red to browns. The layers erode at different rates creating shadows and crazy shapes, some of which have been given names by the local guides.

The constant battering of the ocean has created pillars, arches and caves. it is a coastline in constant change. It can be stunning and dramatic especially on a clear, sunny day which can make the colours almost glow. It can also be bleak, especially on a cloudy and windy day and as you round the headland conditions can change as you move from shelter into the breeze.

You can get so close you can almost reach out and touch the rocks such is the skill of the guide and the manoeuvrability of the boat. It is well worth doing as part of visit to Lagos and out of the main holiday season its relatively quiet and you can almost have the boat to yourselves.

The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is perhaps Icelands premier tourist attraction. It consists of route that will take you to Pingvellir (Thingvellir), Geysir and Gullfoss and makes for an excellent day trip from Reykjavik. You can do a self drive or join one of the many coach tours that leave the capital each day. I chose a tour with Reykjavik Excursions which included a pick up and drop off at my hotel. Tours generally leave around 9am and return late afternoon. For me this is a must do activity while in the country as you see so much in so short a time.

Pingvellir. In an anglicised form it wound be Thingvellir. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site a National Park and the site of the first democratic parliament which was formed here in 930. It is a beautiful, place quiet and peaceful despite all the tourists.

It is also on a tectonic plate boundary. Here the Eurasian plate and North American plate are moving away from each other creating the Mid Atlantic Rift Valley which is where you find the lakes and great fissures which open up as the plates move.

They have created a short path that runs alongside the edge of the North American plate which takes only a short while to complete. It also passes the site of the first parliament which is marked by a flagpole flying the Icelandic flag.

Geysir. The Geyser that named them all is in the Haukadlur geothermal region. Geysir used to erupt and send boiling water up to a height of 80m. Sadly it is now very much dormant and hasn’t erupted since 2014. This could change in the future as the area is geologically very active and earth movements could activate it again. However Strokkur is close by and erupts every 10-15 minutes or so. Reaching a height of 20m it may not be as high as Geysir but it is still very impressive and draws a big crowd.

The whole area around the geysers is geothermically active with pools and lots of vented steam. The wind chill up here was severe, down at minus 12 Celsius, so it was quite a contrast to see so much boiling water. As you walk around the area you can not help but ponder on the awesome forces at work beneath your feet.

There are plenty of refreshment and shopping options here, located just across the road from the geysers. There is also a petrol station and ample parking for coaches and cars.

Gullfoss. Only a short 15 minute drive from Geysir is the spectacular waterfall of Gullfoss.The name translates as golden falls in English and it is from this that itinerary is called The Golden Circle. Nothing really prepares you for the majestic site of the falls, in winter the spectacle is enhanced by the ice and snow. Gullfoss is a double drop waterfall with the Hvitá river cascading down a total of 32m.

There is a choice of walking routes to view the falls. The lower path descends down to the level of the falls by means of a set of stairs. If you don’t fancy the climb back to the top you can take the upper path which has a fantastic panoramic view of the falls.

In 1907 there was an attempt to buy the falls so that hydroelectric power could be generated. The farmer that owned them, Tōmas Tōmasson, replied that “I will not sell my friend.” Much later the falls were leased to investors but the farmers daughter, Sigriour, fought this walking back and forth to Reykjavik to argue her case in court. She worked tirelessly to save the falls and eventually the lease was revoked. There is a memorial to her close to the upper viewing area. To many she is regarded as Icelands first environmentalist

There is a small shop and café here and both are well stocked with refreshments and souvenirs.

The Golden Circle was a wonderful experience and the low temperatures of the day didn’t seem to matter. It’s a great way to see some of the natural beauty of this wonderful country and only a short drive from the capital.