faro | Postcards From Here and There

A Short Guide to The Algarve

The Algarve is a popular holiday destination, attracting some 4.2 million visitors a year. Nearly a quarter of these are from the UK but it is also a popular destination for visitors from Germany, Spain, Netherlands and France. It is easy to see why with over 300 sunshine days a year. While it can be very hot and dry in the summer its winers are relatively mild compared with those of Northern Europe. This makes The Algarve an all year round destination.

Getting There

Faro airport is the main gateway to the Algarve, handling well over 4 million passengers a year, many of which are in the busy summer months.It handles flights from many low cost airlines such as EasyJet, Ryan Air, Jet 2 and Norweigan. The airport is modern and efficient and deals with the large numbers very well.

Trains also run to The Algarve from the capital Lisbon. They depart from Lisbon Oriente and the journey to Faro takes around three and a half hours. Train travel is relatively cheap in Portugal, especially if booked in advance and you are able to do so up to thirty days before departure. Seat reservations are compulsory on inter city trains. Trains also run from Porto to Faro via Lisbon with two such services a day. The current timetable is available here.

There is also a frequent bus service from Lisbon to Faro some of which are non stop. The journey time is very similar to that of the train. The current timetable is available here.

Getting Around.

Car hire is by far the most popular option with plenty of choice and availability at Faro airport with all major hire companies represented in a complex just across from the terminal. For the keenest prices and choice it is always advisable to book in advance of your arrival. The A22 motorway runs across the Algarve from Lagos in the west all the way into Spain in the east. It has tolls which are charged electronically as you pass beneath sensors located above the carriageway. Hire cars are usually fitted with a tag that records the tolls and payment is then made when you return the car. Although there are other methods of paying this is by far the easiest. Hire companies usually charge a small daily fee for the tag of around one euro. Tolls can add up quite quickly, especially if you use the motorway a lot. The trip from Faro to Lagos is just under 7 Euros. For this reason the A22 is very quiet, especially in off season. Locals much prefer to use the regional roads which don’t incur a charge. As a consequence these roads can be very busy and journey times much longer.

There is a bus which runs from Faro airport into the town. The 16 runs from 5am until 23.45 with buses fairly frequently. The journey time is 20 minutes and the fare 2.5 Euros. The 14 takes a slightly different route, visiting the Forum Algarve, and only runs early morning and once in the evening. The journey time is 30 minutes. It is worth noting that both these services actually run from Faro to the beach and stop at the airport part way. It is possible that services in the early evening can be full with people returning from a day out at the beach by the time they reach the airport. This is obviously more likely to be the case in the busy summer months. Both buses terminate at Faro bus station from where you can catch local services to other towns in the Algarve.

There are taxis available outside arrivals at the airport and the journey into town takes about 10 minutes and costs around 13 Euros. It is also possible to prebook transfers from the airport to several popular algarve destinations with several companies offering this type of service.

The Algarve Regional Railway runs from Vila Real De Santo António in the east to Lagos in the western Algarve. It is often necessary to change trains in Faro. The station at Faro can be somewhat confusing when catching a train as there are no departure boards. Journey times are; Vila Real De Santo António to Faro is roughly an hour, from Faro to Lagos it takes 90 minutes. Trains are roughly hourly in each direction but not all trains run at weekends. Tickets are relatively cheap compared to the UK. There are only two types of ticket, single and return. The cost of a return is double that of a single. Tickets are not available in advance and must be purchased on the day. Not all stations on the line have a ticket office, in this case you simply purchase a ticket from the conductor on the train who come round after every stop. It’s worth noting that the conductor only deals in cash, he does not take card payments. A tourist ticket is available. Called the Tourist Travelcard it can be bought as a two day or three day card. This allows you to use the Algarve line as often as you like but the days of use must be consecutive. A two day card costs 20.90 Euros and the tree day 31.90 Euros. It can only be purchased from a station with a ticket office, they are not available on the train. You may well want to check if it is actually a saving for you. Faro to Tavira is 6.40 Euros return and Faro to Lagos is 14.80 Euros for a return. It is worth checking in advance if the station of your chosen destination is actually close to where you want to go. The station at Albufeira is actually 3 miles from the old town.

Algarve Towns

Faro

The largest town on the Algarve and the gateway to the region with its nearby airport. It is a good base if you intend exploring the region by public transport. The Old Town is excellent for wandering and the marina area is lively and an excellent spot to watch the sunset over the Ria Formosa. You can take trips from here to the islands and to explore the nature reserve. Faro has a good selection of restaurants and bars.

Olhão

A nice contrast to Faro as Olhão is much more of a working fishing town. Not surprisingly it has some excellent seafood restaurants. Had some of the best and sweetest prawns I have ever tasted in a small bistro just back from the waterfront.

Tavira

I like Tavira and have stayed there twice recently. The town itself is charming and delightful with a good selection of restaurants and bars. A short ferry ride takes you to the Ilha de Tavira with its superb beach. You can read a detailed post regarding things to do in and around Tavira here.

Portimão

A popular destination for visitors and the Algarve second largest town. The big attraction here is the beach, Praia da Rocha, and it can get very busy in the summer. Just east of Portimão is Praia da Marhina with its most amazing rock formations. If you are feeling energetic you can take the coastal path from Praia Vale Centianes for some superb coastal scenery.

Lagos

There is something very appealing about Lagos, from its bustling marina to the streets of the old town there is something for everyone here and it is well worth a visit even if only for a day trip. You can take a boat trip from the marina to view the rock formations of the Ponta da Piedade or sign up for the many other water based activities on offer including dolphin watching.

Sagres

If surfing is for you then Sagres and the beaches of the western coast is the place to go. There is however much more here including the Fortaleza de Sagres and the São Vicente lighthouse which stands on the most south westerly tip of Europe.

Silves

If you fancy a break from the coast then the town of Silves is a good option. The recently restored castle dominates the town and gives some excellent views of the surrounding countryside from its walls. There is also a cathedral and it makes the town a nice place to wander.

Visiting Faro

Faro is the capital of the Algarve in Southern Portugal and its largest city. It can trace its origins back over 2000 years and was occupied by the Moors for 500 years. For many visitors it is the gateway to the region because of its international airport but not everyone chooses to spend time here. It is a shame as it has a lovely old town that is well worth exploring and it makes an ideal base for visiting other parts of the Algarve as it has good transport links.

The Old Town.

The Old Town (Cidade Velha) is a wonderful place to wander aimlessly around its cobbled streets and just see where it takes you. It isn’t very big and you can easily take in the sights here in an hour or so.

Cranes nest on some of the buildings of the old town down by the water front. They make an amazing sight. As they leave and return to the nest on fishing trips.

Ria Formosa

The Ria Formosa is the coastal lagoon which divides Faro from the Atlantic Ocean. It was made a National Park in 1987 and it is of great ecological importance as a refuge for countless species of coastal birds. The waters here are flat calm and relatively shallow. A number of companies offer tours departing from the quayside in Faro (not the marina). You can read about our experience here.

Ilha Deserta.

The Ilha Deserta (deserted island) is a short ferry ride from Faro. It is deserted because no one lives here but it can still get very busy, especially in the summer. It is a beautiful island and lovely to visit off season when there aren’t so many people around.

The Marina.

The marina is only small but is a very popular place and is great for photos.

Eating and Drinking.

Epicur is a wonderful wine bar located at Rua Alexandre Herculano 22. It is only small but has a superb selection of Portuguese wines and some excellent small plates. The staff here are incredibly knowledgeable about both the food and wine and very helpful. I can’t recommend this place enough.

Close to the marina is Boheme (Avenida da Republica) which is a super little craft beer bar. With seating inside and out it makes a great venue for a beer after a day spent sightseeing. The beer selection is excellent with a plenty of choice either on draught or in bottles. The prices are very reasonable also.

Columbus Cocktail and Wine Bar (Praca Dom Francisco Gomes 13) is a very popular place for both locals and tourists. It offers a great range of cocktails as well wines and small plates. Not a restaurant as such but it serves excellent small snacks.

For me a trip to the Algarve would not be complete without sampling the grilled fish and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. Do check opening as many are closed on Sunday.

Faro is well worth a visit and it can easily be done in a day trip.

The Ria Formosa

The Ria Formosa is a coastal lagoon in the Algarve, southern Portugal and covers an area of 18,000 hectares, stretching from Tavira, in the eastern Algarve to just west of Faro. It was made a National Park in 1987 and is of ecological importance, particularly for its bird life.

A series of barrier islands gives protection from the Atlantic Ocean and as a result the waters are usually flat calm and are relatively shallow.

A number of companies offer tours of the Rio Formosa from the quayside in Faro. A popular option is a 5 hour tour which includes visits to four of the islands and a lunch stop on Culatra Island for which you cover your own costs. Our trip was in a very comfortable catamaran, seating up to 12 people, with guide who is able to give a commentary in a number of different languages.

Ilha Deserta (the deserted island) is a popular island for visitors, especially in the summer, with its beautiful beach facing the Atlantic Ocean You can reach it by Ferry from Faro which runs all year round. It’s deserted in the sense that nobody lives there but there is a cafe/restaurant and toilet facilities. Visiting in early March was fantastic as the number of fellow tourists was very small indeed and you could appreciate the peace and tranquility of the place.

A short boat ride then takes you on to Farol Island complete with is lighthouse built in 1851. There are also some lovely little cottages here, many of which are now holiday homes and rentals. A busier island but still peaceful and quiet at this time of year.

Armona Island is opposite the town of Olhão from where you can pick up a water taxi to the island. Armona is busier with more of a resident population, a small convenience store and a number of cafes.There are still no cars or roads here as on previous islands and its is a nice place to wander aimlessly through the narrow, twisting streets.

The final stop was Culatra Island, also known as Fishermans Island. Here there is a harbour for the fishing boats that service the lslands main economy.

Here you can have lunch if you so desire and what else would you eat but fish. I am a huge fan of simply grilled fish and nowhere does it as well as its done in Portugal. Washed down with a zingy, fresh glass of Vinho Verde its a perfect end to an excellent tour.

It is then a 20/30 minute boat ride back to Faro where you get excellent views of the old town as you approach.