The December tasting at Bunch Natural Wine Bar on Berry Street in Liverpool was a great way to end the year with some rather special bottles opened. The overall quality was high and these monthly tasting should be on the calendar of anon interested in low intervention wines which exhibit a true sense of place. Unfortunately I was unable to take photographs on the night so no bottle labels to accompany the notes. I’ll try better next time!
Magya Watt. Vinereuse. Gaillac. France. 2018. Marine Leys produces wines organically from five hectares in Gaillac. This is a rosé pet nat made from Gamay grapes which were hand harvested, destemmed and fermented in fibre glass. There was a short 2-3 day maceration on the skins. The wine was bottled without filtration before fermentation was completed. It has the gentlest of mousse with a lovely creamy texture and a nice touch of sweetness. Delicate strawberry fruit with just a hint of pear make this a very drinkable wine indeed.
Mad Dog. Madame Flock Wines. Mosel. Germany. 2018. Madame Flock wines is a joint venture of Robert Kane and Derek Labelle. Mad Dog is a single vineyard with vines of about 30 years old. Grapes were had picked and 30% fermented in old French oak and the remainder in stainless steel. The wine was aged for 10 months before bottling with no fining and minimum sulphur. a wine that really opens up given a few minutes in glass and a gentle swirling. Creamy and quite full with apple, apricot and a nice balance. A real grower, it got better and better.
Vita. Massa Vecchia. Tuscany. Italy. 2016. Massa Vecchia was founded in 1985 and has been certified organic since 1993. Vita is an orange wine made from 100% Malvasia di Candia.It spent two weeks on skins before being pressed into old oak barrels where it was left for a year before bottling. It then had a minimum six months before release. Golden in appearance, the wine is intense, powerful and complex with flavours of orange peel and candied fruits.The finish is incredibly long. A fantastic wine.
Rebela Rosa. Slobodne. Hlohovec. Slovakia. 2018. 50% Blauframkisch and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon which were vinified separately in old oak vats before blending and spending eight months in amphora. The aroma is quite floral with a nice touch of tarragon. The plate is round with a touch of sweetness.
Cette Main Légèrement Serrée M’a Laissé Perplexe. Anders Frederik Steen. Ardèche, France. 2018. Anders was formerly a sommelier and restaurateur in his native Denmark before his move into winemaking. He is now based in Valvignères in the Ardèche region of southern France where he makes a small range of highly individual wines. A blend of Carignan and Chardonnay aged for eight months in oak barrels then bottled without fining, filtration or the addition of sulphur. It is a medium bodied wine with lovely freshness and nice texture. Very drinkable and opens out really nicely in glass. The name translates as “the hand tightened a little too much left me perplexed”
En Remont. Julie Balagny. Beaujolais. France. 2018. Julie Balagny organically farms three hectares of vines in Fleurie from which she makes three wines; Cayenne, En Remont and Simone. She also has a small vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent. En Remont is made from old vines, hand picked, foot pressed before spending time in old oak barrels. This is serious stuff and a great expression go Gamay. Nice concentration, red fruits and hazelnuts in glorious harmony. An elegant wine with real character and a long, long finish. The wine of the evening for me.