Tag: Natural Wine

Real Wine Fair

The Real Wine Fair was held at London’s Tobacco Dock on the 12/13th May. The fair champions small, independent producers who produce wine that is a pure expression of time and place, made with minimum intervention both in the vineyard and winery. While there is no definition of real wine many of the wines on show are produced organically without the addition of any chemicals except perhaps for a tiny amount of sulphur in some cases.

Tobacco dock is a grade I listed building in East End of London and is a perfect venue. It is bright, with plenty of space for exhibitors and visitors alike. Having said that I visited on the Sunday and while it was relatively quiet in the morning it did get very busy by mid afternoon. The fair also features a number of artisan food producers and street food stalls so there is something for when you just need to take a little time out.

There was something around 178 producers from 21 different countries so choices most certainly had to be made for a successful visit. I concentrated mainly, but not exclusively, on wines from the New World and the notes that follow were some of the wines that I particularly enjoyed.

Rainbow Juice. Gentle Folk. 2018. Adelaide Hills. Australia. Gareth and rainbow Belton have been making wine under the Gentle Folk table since 2012 in the hills east of Adelaide. Rainbow juice is a blend of 23 varieties of both red and white grapes. This is what summer drinking is all about. Light, juicy with delicious red berries on the palate. An easy drinking wine which is just a little bit serious. Lovely stuff. All the wines on show were very good and I aLSO Particularly liked the 2018 Tiersman Syrah which was full of dark berry fruit, peppery with a touch of savoury spice.

Ada Chardonnay. Patrick Sullivan 2018. Yarra Valley. Australia. From grapes grown on volcanic soils at a higher elevation than his Baw Baw Chardonnay this is richer, well balanced and with lovely texture.

Patrick Sullivan

Coquelicot Cabernet Franc. Lo-Fi Wines. 2017. Santa Barbara County. USA. Two lifelong friends making wines with a philosophy of “nothing added, nothing removed”. The grapes were grown organically and were wild fermented whole bunch for 12 days before pressing to tank. Aged for 10 months in neutral oak. This has produce a fruit driven, super juicy and well balanced wine full of Californian sun. If you love vinyl records you’ll love the labels too.

Hughes Hollow Pinot Noir. Bow & Arrow. 2015. Oregon.USA. Scott Frank produces makes wines from the Willamette Valley in the Pacific Northwest. Specialising in Loire Valley varietals he produces a great range of wines including an excellent Johan Vineyard Melon Blanc. For me however it was the point noir which was the star of the show. A lovely nose of savoury red fruit with a gentle touch of perfume. The palate is well balanced and very inviting. Drinking very well. This plot of pinot was included. as part of a deal to buy Gamay grapes, it has turned out to be a rather good deal.

Riesling Off The Grid. Ovum Wines. 2017. Oregon.USA. Grapes from a single vineyard in southwest Oregon underwent a wild fermentation in concrete egg. This is wonderful stuff; limes, petrol, floral with a touch of honey and lovely balance. The finish is incredibly long and lingering.

El Bandito “Monkey Gone to Heaven”. Testalonga. 2018. Swartland. South Africa. 100% Mouvedre. Deep rose in colour, medium bodied,dark berry fruits, perfumed and with grippy tannins. Very nice.

Coef. Sebastien David. 2016.Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil. Loire. France. Fermented in amphora this is lovely stuff indeed. An intense nose of berry fruits . Earthy with a touch of peppery spice. A wine of real character. I also enjoyed the 2018 Hurluerlu that was on tasting.

Bunch Spring Tasting

One of the great things I like about Bunch Natural Wine Bar on Berry Street in Liverpool is that there is always something different to try. It is a welcome challenge to step out of your comfort zone and give something new and unfamiliar a try. The beauty of wines by the glass is that you don’t have the financial commitment to the whole bottle so if a wine turns out not to be to your particular liking its not such a costly mistake. Not that I ever come across many that I don’t like, there are simply some I prefer, and all of the wines are worth the effort of getting to know even if the odd one just remains a casual acquaintance. The spring tasting, held in the shop last week, was another great example of the diversity of wines on offer and most of them are well worth getting to know better.

I Wish I Was a Ninja. Testalonga. PetNat. 2018 Swartland. South Africa. The more I drink the wines of Craig Hawkins the more I like them. Here is a producer that really is worthy of further investigation. This was a new wine to me and it is absolutely delicious. Made from 100% Columbard, it’s off dry with 25g/l residual sugar. Pear, apple and elderflower along with a gently carbonation and lovely texture. A well balanced and refreshing wine for the summer ahead.

Fruit Basket. Yetti & the Kokonut. 2018. Eden Valley. Australia. From a 95 year old block in South Australias Eden Valley which contains 13 different grape varieties I have enjoyed this wine on several previous occasions. Revealing something different with each sip, it is a fruit salad in a glass. Sadly it didn’t reveal its true beauty tonight but I won’t let that put me off as I know how good it can be!

Chinuri. Iago Bitarishvili, 2015. Kartil. Georgia. They have been making wine in Georgia for 8.000 years or so. This is traditionally made from the indigenous Chinuri grape variety. It is an orange wine made in clay pots called qvevri. The pot is filled with grapes, buried and left for 6 months before pressing and bottling. It produces a style of wine that can divide opinion as it did on the evening but in the hands of a producer such as Iago Bitarishvilli I can’t think of a better place to start exploring these wines. It is dry with flavours of orange and pear with a touch of dried herbs. There are tannins here but nothing too heavy and the finish is incredibly long.

Basis Nobody. Matthias Warnung. 2016 Kamptal. Austria. A field blend of 90% Gruner Veltliner and 10% Zweigelt. Whole bunches are placed in a large old wooden vat for ten days. The bunches are then pressed and the wine bottled with the addition of a minimal amount of sulphur. The result is a delicate and elegant style of rosé that got better and better with each sip. Dry with lovely strawberry fruit and a touch of fennel. A very appealing wine.

Jumping Juice Half Full Red. Patrick Sullivan. 2018. Victoria. Australia. Mainly Shiraz with the addition of some Semillon and Viognier, this is an incredibly delicious and drinkable wine. For all those that think Aussie Shiraz is only a big, bold wine try this. It is so juicy with bags of soft red fruits a lovely texture and a gentle touch of savouriness on the finish. Delightful.

Blaufrankisch. Nachbil. 2016. Transylvania. Romania. To finish a very easy drinking and not unpleasant red. This wine has black fruits and is savoury and smokey. A slight sweetness to the fruit, nicely textured and a long finish.

RAW Wine Fair

The RAW Wine Fair returned to London earlier this month for a two day event featuring over 160 producers of organic or biodynamic wines. These are minimum intervention wines which are truly authentic and have a real sense of place. Speakers Corner featured a number of talks and tastings led by the producers themselves or industry experts. For a break from the hustle and bustle of the main tasting room I was lucky to attend Understanding Bubbles, a tasting of six sparkling wines led by Patrick Schmitt MW. It was a lovely opportunity to compare such very different wines and the quality was very high indeed.

Ancre Hill. Triomphe. Pet Nat. Ancre Hill is a family owned vineyard in Monmouthshire, South Wales. Vines were first plated here in 2006 and they now have 12 hectares.The estate has been fully biodynamic since 2010 and was given certification in 2014. Triomphe is a variety which is able to ripen even in cool summers so may well be thought to be highly suited to the climate in the UK. A wild ferment and without fining or filtration this wine is ruby red in appearance with a slight haze and an intense nose of red fruits. I have never been a fan of red sparking wines finding them too aggressive on the palate but this is rather pleasant, the lower pressure in the bottles gives a wine which is gently sparkling on the palate and much the better for it.

Cantina Furlani. Surlie. Alpino. Alto Adige. 2017. From vineyards at a height of 700m close to the city of Trento in Northern Italy. Produced with a wild ferment, unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulphites. Lovely aroma of pear and green apple, barely sparking with touch of sweetness. This is a very drinkable wine and I wish I had another glass.

Champagne. Franck Pascal. Fluence. 2012. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier it has the faintest of pink tinge when held to the light. It’s toasty, lemony and nutty with a great finish. This is really excellent stuff, a standout wine.

Agricola Alessandra Divella. Blanc des Blancs. Franciacorta. 2015. Made from 100% Chardonnay and vinified in old oak this is a very fine, elegant wine. It’s toasty and with nice body and lovely texture. Serious stuff. Excellent.

Meinklang. Foam White. Burgenland. Austria. 2017. An orange pet nat made from Pinot Gris, unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulphites. Orange in appearance and the nose is quite aromatic, there are stone fruits, candied peel and a touch of residual sweetness. For me this is a wine that is probably best enjoyed along with some food.

Swik Wines. The Beav. 2018. A natural pet nat from the Pacific Northwest of the United States. A rather bonkers mix of 50% Cinsault, 40% Gewurtztraminer and 10% Riesling. Macerated on skins for two weeks and a wild ferment in stainless steel without any fining or filtration has produced a wine which is a light orange, salmon colour with a slight haze. A really interesting wine and I mean that in good way. Floral, perfumed and with nice texture, this is a wine that invites you to have another glass because it is just a little bit different and there is nothing wrong with that.