Te Puia

Te Puia is an experience like no other. It is a centre of Maori culture and a geothermal wonderland including the largest geyser in the southern hemisphere. Our entrance fee included a visit to the meeting house (shown below) where we saw a range of traditional Maori singing and dancing, culminating in the haka. The meeting house itself is an incredible building, the interior features intricately carved panels and weavings.

Te Puia is also home to the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute. Here teaching  the traditional methods of carving, casting and weaving ensure that the skills are handed down to future generations.

The geyser field here is protected buy law from any external development that might affect it. The whole area is simply stunning and I took so many photographs it was diffficult to choose which to include. The path down from the main entrance gives you tantalising views of the main geyser terrace.

The constant eruptions of the geysers has created a most beautiful terrace made mainly of silica. As a water feature it is pretty impressive and watching the water flow down is a a good way to spend the time while waiting for the star of the show. This is the geyser named Pohutu, the largest in the Southern Hemisphere,  it erupts roughly twice an hour and can reach heights of up to 30 metres.

Pohutu means constant splashing in Maori. Water is at 95 Celsius when it erupts but cools quickly so that if you get spray from the geyser it is actually cooling. When we visited it hadn’t erupted for two hours and we were wondering if we were going to be out of luck. The Prince of Wales Feathers geyser to the left of Pohutu is much smaller but acts as an indicator geyser. It erupts first and then Pohutu usually follows some 15 minutes later. We were in luck and a guide informed us that an eruption was imminent. the eruption involves clouds os steam and it is difficult to see the actual water against it. The eruption we witnessed was relatively small with nothing like 100 metres in height. It was still a marvellous spectacle.

The small pond just below the geysers looks blue because of the mineral deposits. It fills only occasionally as it is dependent on the direction of water flow following eruptions.

Mudpools are a feature of geothermal activity in the area around Rotorua. They can take many years to fully form, the one below was described by our guide as only a teenager and still has lots of water visible (though this can vary in all mud pools depending on rainfall). They begin to form when hot gases begin to rise from the bottom of a pond that has been caused by the condensation of venting steam. The acidic gases destroy the rocks and produce clay and the area starts to thicken.

The mudpool below is much thicker and gases can be seen escaping from the surface and make a sound like the leaping and croaking of a frog! the hotel building in the photograph is no longer occupied after it was found to be sinking. investigations showed that the mudpool was expanding under the structure.

Rotorua mud, not necesarily from these pools is available to buy locally as face packs.

There is so much more to see at Te Puia including New Zealands national bird, the Kiwi. It has become endangered in recent times as a result of predation by dogs and cats and there is a programme of conservation underway. Despite being the size of a chicken it lays an egg about four times the size of an hens egg!

The Pikirangi village is a reconstruction by students from the Arts and Crafts school to show life in a Maori village before the arrival and settlement of Europeans.

An awful lot to see and do and a fantastic way to spend a few hours. you can find out more about Te Puia by visiting their website (click here), they have some wonderful photos and detailed information.

Rotorua

It is a steady four hour drive from Auckland to Rotorua and the last part of the journey is on The Thermal Explorer Highway. That gives you some idea of the wonders that are in store in what is a city with geothermal activity at its core. Rather uncomplimentary is the name sulphur city due to the pervading aroma of hydrogen sulphide in certain areas. The rotten egg smell does take a little getting used to but it is not something that should put off the visitor.

Rotorua lies on the western edge of Lake Rotorua, the lake is volcanic in origin, formed when the magma chamber of a volcano collapsed and filled with water thousands of years ago. Today the south east corner of the lake is geothermically active and is known as sulphur bay. As you would expect the rotten egg smell is quite strong here. The water looks cloudy, on closer examination you can see a very feint yellow colour due to the sulphur that is suspended in the water. The water here is a very hostile environment, the dissolved oxygen is very low and the water is highly acidic with a pH of around 3.5. Very little can survive in such waters.

Despite such inhospitable conditions the area is a wildlife sanctuary and home to over 50 species of bird, including some that are nationally endangered. Birds enjoy the warm water but the acidity can destroy the webs on their feet. Thats a big price to pay for being warm! As there is little life in the lake here the birds must find food in the surrounding areas.

The rocks around the edge of bay have an almost moonlike appearance, they are grey with yellow deposits of sulphur, and there’s that smell again! Once out of the bay the waters clear and the lake takes on the appearance that you would expect. A unique place and well worth a visit

Auckland – sampling craft beers

The craft beer movement is strong in New Zealand with many breweries producing many different beers. It would be nigh on impossible to taste them all in a month but when the opportunity arises a little sampling is in order. A few hours in Auckland’s Harbourside and Wynyard Quarter gave us two bars to visit.

First up Jack Tar (34-37 Jellicoe Street). Located in the Wynyard Quarter amongst many other bars and restaurants it was relatively quiet when we visited. Located in what resembles a wharfside warehouse,. its a good place to start the evening and if you feel like staying there is an extensive menu to choose from.

Jack Tar, Auckland

Mac’s Gold. 4%. Yellow/gold in appearance, crystal clear, light head, low bitterness. Flavours of caramel and sweetcorn! Has a lovely richness. Very drinkable.
Panhead Supercharger APA. 5.7%. Wellington. A great name for a beer. Amber/gold, slight haze, well formed head. Pronounced flavours of lemon, grapefruit. Nice level of bitterness.
Speights Gold. 4%. Dunedin. Deep amber in colour, clear, good head to the beer. Caramel, malty with nice sweetness.

Research had indicated a bar by the name of The Tyler Street Garage might be well worth a visit but unfortunately it closed in January. It has, however, been replaced by a gastropub called Chamberlains (120 Quay Street). When we arrived late afternoon the place was buzzing. New Zealand, England and Australia were playing a tri T20 cricket tournament and New Zealand were about to play Australia. Supporters of all sides were lubricating the vocal chords for the supporting that was about to begin. It made for an excellent place to settle down for a beer or two.

Hallertau No2. Pale Ale. 5.3%. Auckland. Light amber in colour, low bitter, hoppy, caramel, lovely balance to the beer. Very drinkable.
Disco King. IPA. Choice Bros. 6.5%. Amber in appearance, hazy, light froth at the rim. Medium bitterness, lemon, coriander, topic of malt.
L’Hop. Epic Brewery. APA. 4.4%. Golden, clear, light in style but with lovely flavour and subtlety. This is a beer that demands to be drunk and the relatively low ABV means thats perfectly possible.
Epic Lager. 5%. Yellow gold, clear and bright. Crisp, charters and full flavoured. Very nice.
Ma Is White. Whitbier. Fork and Brewer. 5.4%. Named after the first line of a well known primary school song. Yellow, hazy. A very nice beer with flavours of fruit salad sweets ( who remembers those?) with a hint of orange. Almost creamy. Beer showing real complexity of flavour. An absolute star.