Nelson and Mapua

From the Picton ferry there is a choice of two routes to the city of Nelson. The first follows State Highways all of the way and is very much the long way round. The second route is to take the minor road almost straight after the ferry. It starts to climb immediately to give fantastic views of the bays and inlets of Picton harbour and beyond. The road twists, turns,  climbs and descends until it eventually joins with State highway 6 just before the town of Havelock. In doing so you have passed the most gorgeous scenery. It might be slower but it is an absolute pleasure. From Havelock the route to Nelson is the same.

Havelock is a small town and you might be tempted to pass on through if it wasn’t  for the fact that it is the Greenshell Mussel capital of the world. Greenshell Mussels are farmed in the waters of the Marlborough Sounds and are unique to New Zealand. They are huge, about 4 inches in length, and have a vivid green rim around the shell. Sadly I didn’t take a photograph but they are available in all their glory at The Mussel Pot (73 Main Road) where they have been seeing them for 20 years and are well worth a stop for lunch.

Nelson is a small city by British standards with a population of around 50000. It is the oldest city in the South Island, which may be hard to believe as it appears thoroughly modern today and is one of New Zealand’s most liveable cities.

Queens Gardens Nelson

The city was named after Horatio Nelson and this can also be seen in the the names of streets such as Trafalgar and Hardy. The city has a good range of restaurants and bars selling craft beer. It seems that you don’t need to travel very far in New Zealand to find a craft beer brewery! A personal favourite was The Free House ( I think I will do the beer reviews in a separate post). To show just how small the world actually is I met an ex work colleague, in the beer garden, that I hadn’t seen for several years.

About 20 miles west of Nelson, on the shore of the Tasman Bay, is the small town of Mapua. Mapua is the gateway to the vineyards of the Nelson wine region and from here it is possible to hire a bike and explore the wineries. Be warned however, the region around the Moutere Hills does, not surprisingly, present one or two challenges.

The town of Mapua itself is an absolute delight with an excellent selection os shops, bars, restaurants and, you guessed, a craft brewery

From Mapua you can catch the ferry to Rabbit island which is the largest island in the Tasman Bay. It runs once an hour on the hour and costs 12 NZD return. It gives access to cycle routes if you have hired bikes from nearby trail journeys and want a flatter route than the Moutere Hills. You can also drive to the island near the town of Richmond but that does take away some of the fun.

To The South Island

The Cook Strait between the north and south islands connects the Tasman Sea to the east with the Pacific Ocean to the west. It can be a very unpredictable stretch of water for navigation due to the winds that can roar through from the south, giving large swells on the open stretch of the crossing. We were fortunate that for our crossing it was it was calm and tranquil following Cyclone Gita which had passed through the area two days earlier.

The crossing itself between, Wellington on the north island and Picton in the south, is approximately 94 kilometres and takes three and as half hours.  Only about a third of this time is actually in open water, the first third is leaving Wellington harbour and bay and the final third is the cruise up the beautiful Queen Charlotte and Marlborough sounds.

Two  ferry companies cross the straits, Interislander and Bluebridge, both have several crossings per day. We crossed with Interislander which have bigger ships, our vessel Kaitaki is the largest and is used for the busy 9am crossing. It can carry 1350 passengers and on the day we crossed was very busy indeed.

The following photographs show some of what is considered by some to be one of the great ferry journeys of the world.

Wellington Harbour
Wellington from the bay
Pencarrow Head

Marlborough Sound

Marlborough Sound

36 Hours in Wellington

With only 36 hours in Wellington a good plan is essential. This is our guide as to how to spend that precious time.

  1. Mount Victoria. A must for those awe inspiring 360 degree views of the city. I have posted a few photographs here
  2. Take the cable car. Located at 280 Lambton Quay this is another way to get some good views. It is actually a funicular railway but don’t let that put you off. Cars run ever ten minutes and it costs 7.50NZD for a return trip. Once at the top you can visit the Cable Car Museum, The Observatory,  the  Botanic Gardens or simply grab some excellent coffee at The Kowhai Cafe before heading back down again.

3. Walk along the waterfront. A great free activity and always plenty so see. there are also numerous bars and restaurants along the way

4. Te Papa. The national museum of New Zealand is yet another free attraction. So good it deserved a post all on its own, You can read it here

5. Visit a gallery. We had hoped to visit The City Gallery, located in Civic Square,  but it was closed until early March 2018 so  made do with the New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts, which is also free. Currently housing an exhibition of the 26th Annual Wallace At Awards winners.

6. Cuba Street. Reportedly Wellingtons coolest street. Partly pedestrianised it has an eclectic mixtures of buildings, shops, cafes, bars and restaurants.Time spent strolling up and down and exploring its heart is well worth doing.

7. Visit a bar and sample some of the many craft beers made in the city. here are three places worth a visit.

Fortune Favours – 7 Leeds Street and very close to Cuba Street. Opened in 2016. You can see the beer being brewed before your very eyes you sample some of their previous efforts. the beers are really rather good. Fortune Favours

Goldings Free Dive – 14 Leeds Street. A great bar that features some nice beers. The atmosphere in here is amazing even late afternoon. The Star Was memorabilia around the place keeps you busy making sure you spot it all. Goldings Free Dive

Mac’s Brewbar – 4 Taranaki Street. Down by the waterfront and with seating both inside and out. The beer is good and there is even a restaurant attached. They also have an interesting display of lampshades!

8. All the sightseeing will probably make you hungry, well it does to me, so here are couple of suggestions out of the many on offer.

Nikau Cafe – Round the back of The City Gallery and only open until 4pm so an ideal lunch spot.Get here early, the outside seating fills up very quickly with all tables taken by 12.30 on the day we visited. The cooking here is excellent and on par with many restaurants where you might have to pay considerably more, their kedgeree was outstanding. Nikau Cafe

Beach Babylon – 232 Oriental Parade. Directly opposite Wellingtons beach which I am led to believe was created by importing sand. Beach Babylon is open for breakfast at 8am until late. The cooking here was very good and reasonably priced. they have some great beers too. Beach Babylon