Northern Lights | Postcards From Here and There

Northern Lights in Iceland

A viewing of the Northern Lights is high on the list of many travellers and our hopes were high on our recent four day trip to Iceland. Sadly just being at high northern latitudes does not guarantee a sighting, much depends on the weather, cloud cover, solar activity and the absence of background light. There are however things that you can do to ensure that you maximise the chance. While you can not control weather, clouds and solar activity you can arrange a trip to an area of darkness away from the influence of city lights. Before you book check on the likelihood of a display. The Icelandic Met Office issues a three day aurora forecast.

The forecast will show the presence of cloud at various heights in the sky. Most tourist go straight to the number shown as the aurora forecast in the top right hand corner. This gives you an indication of the chance of seeing a display and how active the display will be. You don’t necessarily need a high score, indeed in Iceland the score of 3 is the most common and scores above 5 are rare. Remember the number is only a guide. We saw a short display with an aurora forecast of 3. Be prepared to give it time even if all the indicators are good, a display can build slowly and timings can never be guaranteed.

Don’t expect the aurora display you observe to be as vibrant or colourful as it appears in many photographs. Some people can be underwhelmed by what they see and there is a perfectly sound biological reason why. The retina at the back of the eye is made up of two types of cells called rods and cones. Rods are responsible for our vision when light intensity is low however they are not capable of colour vision. This is why it is not very easy to tell the colour of an object if there isn’t much light. Cones on the other hand are capable of colour vision but can only function at higher light intensities. So if you are trying to observe the Northern Lights in an area of darkness only the rods in the eye are functioning therefore you dont see colour very well. To see the colours clearly you need a camera.

You need to set the camera to MANUAL mode. This enables you to control the cameras settings. Set the shutter speed to between 10 and 20 seconds, a little trial and error here to find the optimum. The aperture should be set to around 3.5 and the ISO to 16oo. It is also a good idea to set the timer to a two second delay. To use such long exposures you really need a tripod to hold the camera steady. Having said that I forget mine and had to spend the evening trying to hold my camera as steady as possible in the freezing cold. I managed to take some pictures but they were out of focus due to the camera shake. You live and learn, the next time a tripod will be at the top of the list!

Many smart phone cameras do not let you alter the exposure but there are apps available to help you photograph the Northern Lights. A search in the App Store should show you the possibilities. Having not tried any I can not make any sort of recommendation.

Things to do in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city in Iceland with a population of around 120,000. It sits on the southern shore of Faxa Bay and is an excellent destination for a short break or long weekend from the UK.

The main international airport is Keflavik with is 50Km from the capital but is easily reached in 40/50 minutes by a frequent airport coach service. Indeed many travellers use Reykjavik as a stop over destination on flights between Europe and North America.

Compared with many European capitals Reykjavik is not only small but relatively compact which makes it a very walkable city if you want to avoid using public transport. It is also quite low rise, with very few really tall buildings, which gives it a big sky feel. Many of the buildings, especially in the old town, are characterful and colourful. At times you forget you are in a capital city and that’s how it should be, it make sit an excellent place to visit.

Just because its small doesn’t mean that there isn’t a lot to see and do. I spent a full day here and still had much left too see and do that I’m already thinking about another trip back.

Hallgrimskirkja. This iconic Icelandic church is visible for miles around, standing tall in the city. It was designed to resemble volcanic lava flow and took just over 40 years to build. You can take a lift to the top of the tower for stunning views of the city.

Parliament House. The Icelandic parliament is called the Albingi and is the oldest parliament in the world, dating back to 930. Originally held at Thingvellir, some 30 miles east of Reykjavik, it has been housed in this building since 1881.

The Sun Voyager. This sculpture, by Jon Gunnar Arnason, of a Viking ship is located on the waterfront close to the city centre. Its location is perfect set as it is with water and mountains framing its structure. There is some debate as to its true meaning but you cannot deny that it is a stunning piece of work that always has something different to offer as it catches the light at different times of day.

Harpa. Located close to the Sun Voyager, Harpa is a concert hall and conference centre which opened in 2011. Its design is very modern and futuristic and quite a contrast to some of the more traditional buildings in the city. The building catches the sun and shimmers during the day and its exterior is illuminated at night. It is possible to take a tour of the building and there are also cafés and restaurants.

The Settlement Exhibition. A fascinating excavation of a 10th century Viking longhouse discovered in 2001 is combined with modern multimedia displays which explain its construction and life at that time. Its an excellent way to spend an hour.

Reykjavik Museum of Photography. Located on the sixth floor of the City Library this small space plays host to exhibitions of the work of superb photographers. Well worth the very modest entry fee but do check what’s on first.

Have a hot dog. There are numerous outlets around the city selling hot dogs, a favourite snack of the locals. Baejarins Beztu cabins are said to do the best in town. They are very tasty, have them with everything on.

The Old Harbour. The old harbour of Reykjavik is in the process of regeneration and is a lovely place for a stroll. Not only does it afford some fantastic views and photo opportunities there are a growing number of cafés and restaurants. This is also the place to pick up whale watching and sea angling trips. It is also home to the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina, my base for three days.

Whales of Iceland. This consists of 23 man made, life size models of the various species of whale that can be found in Icelandic waters. It is quite remarkable and awe-inspiring to stand beneath, or alongside, some of these magnificent creatures of the ocean. A free audio guide is included with the entry fee and this is interesting and informative and takes you round the exhibition in around 3o minutes but you can pause and spend longer if you choose. The whole place is bathed in soft blue light and there is accompanying whale song. There is also a nice café and gift shop. Whales of Iceland website.

Aurora Reykjavik. This small exhibition gives a full explanation of why we see the Northern Lights and how best to capture them on film. There is also an interesting section detailing the significance of the display to the various cultures found in the Arctic. Best of all is the giant photo display of auroras captured at various Icelandic locations. There photography here is quite stunning and well worth the 30 or so minutes to view them all. A good little museum if you need to learn more about the aurora before you go to hopefully catch a display. Aurora Reykjavik website.

This is by no means a comprehensive list of things to do. I had to make decisions because I only had one free day in the city. You could easily spend 2 or 3 days here.

Visiting Iceland in Winter

Having just returned from a short trip to Iceland I can honestly say that I was blown away by the country and am already thinking about when to return for a longer, more comprehensive visit. Summer tourism to Iceland is well established but visits in the winter are relatively new, six years ago there were very few winter visitors. Winter is an excellent time to visit, the landscapes are absolutely stunning, covered with snow and so photogenic. There is also a much greater chance of seeing the Northern Lights.

The days are short. Reykjavik is the most northern capital city in the world and its latitude (64 degrees North), means that in the winter there is a not a great deal of daylight. This doesn’t mean however that there is 24 hours of darkness at any time. Even on the shortest day there are just over 4 hours of daylight, with the sun rising at 11.22am. By the end of January this has increased to around 7 hours. The pace of the day is different, you soon adapt and become much more organised in getting out and about.

It can be cold. It is called Iceland after all. During my visit the temperature was around -6 Celsius with a wind chill down to -12. If you have the right clothing it is perfectly manageable. Make sure you pack appropriately, the temperature won’t necessarily be that low but if you are prepared its much less of a problem. Essentials are waterproof walking shoes/boots with a good tread, it can be snowy and slushy. A wind proof jacket and wind proof thermal gloves. I used the gloves that I use when cycling and they were perfectly adequate. Layering is always a good idea and try to start with a good thermal base layer, I use a merino wool thermal base layer and would recommend them wholeheartedly. Don’t forget a hat and scarf big enough to wrap round your face to protect from the wind. You can of course buy many of these things while you are there but you may find them much more expensive than at home.

You have a better chance to see The Northern Lights. The short days of winter mean that you may get to see the Northern Lights. Of course there is no guarantee, viewings depend on a number of factors such as cloud cover, solar activity and the absence of background light. Trips are available from Reykjavik which run on days when conditions are deemed to be favourable. They usually go to Thingvellir national park, about a 45 minute drive out of the city to an area with no light pollution. You may even be able to book on a subsequent evening if you were unlucky and there was no activity. Reykjavik Excursions run trips at 19.30 and 21.00 each day. The guided tour lasts for 3 hours and costs 4999 ISK.

The weather can be changeable. There had been heavy snow in Reykjavik in the days before I arrived and although main routes were clear side streets were not. Driving in Iceland in the winter requires care, attention and forward planning. Hire cars should be fitted with winter snow tyres to aid traction in snowy and icy conditions. It is possible to visit Reykjavik and do coach tours including around The Golden Circle without the need for car hire. There is also an excellent coach service which links Keflavik Airport with the capital.

There are a couple of websites that can help with road conditions in the country. Safetravel.is covers all aspects of travel in the country as well as giving weather and road reports. Road.is details road conditions around the country and even has webcams showing junctions and stretches of major roads so you can judge for yourself what conditions are like. The weather can change quickly and it is always a good idea to get an up to date weather forecast before heading out. The Icelandic Met Office is the place to look for the latest report.

It’s quieter. Although winter tourism is growing it is still far behind that in the summer. As a result tourist attractions are much quieter and restaurants less busy. Make the best of it while you can. Winter is glorious in Iceland and you won’t be disappointed, the snowy landscapes are absolutely magical.