Buon Vino Virtual Tasting

So what could be better on a cold night in February in the depths of a third national lockdown than a virtual wine tasting? Well its no substitute for the real things but in current times it’s better than nothing and turned out to be a very enjoyable experience indeed. Hosted by North Yorkshire natural wine merchants Buon Vino you chose the wines that interested you from a list of around eight available for the evening. Ours arrived very quickly indeed and they were followed on the evening of the tasting by a Zoom code to enable us to join the virtual tasting.

Roc’ Ambulle. Chateau Le Roc. Pet Nat. NV

This is a delightful Pet Nat made from Negrette and Mauzac grapes grown in Fronton in South West France, just north of the city of Toulouse. It’s low in alcohol at 9.5% making it an ideal drink for a warm summer afternoon in the garden. A delicate pink colour from a short skin contact it has lovely strawberry fruit and some delicate floral notes. A fine mousse gives it a gentle creaminess on the palate. There is a hint of sweetness but it is by no means sweet. A very drinkable wine with a very pleasant character. What’s not to like?

Ottavio Rube. Vino Bianco. Cooperative Valli Unite 2019.

A biodynamically produced wine from the Valli Unite cooperative in the Piemonte region of Italy. A blend of Cortese and Timorasso it has hints of pear, peach and lime in a wine that is crisp and fresh. It has a nice texture and is well balanced. Good value for money.

Chardonnay. Judith Beck. 2019

Organically grown grapes from the Burgenland in Austria were hand harvested and whole bunch pressed into old barriques where they were allowed to undergo a wild fermentation. The wine was aged for 6-7 months on the lees before bottling. This really is very good with nice weight and balance. Lovely lemon citrus together with a wonderful creamy texture from the ageing on the lees. The wine has seen no oak at all. A really nice Chardonnay and excellent value for money at £15.95

Tragolargo. Bodegas Vinessens. 2020

An orange wine that is a blend of Moscatel and Malvasia grown in the Alicante region of Spain. The wine has had minimum intervention and is certified organic. A short period of skin contact has produced a golden/light orange colour, the wine is aromatic, grapey with a gentle burnt orange flavour and a delicate floral perfume. There are some dry, grippy tannins here. All in all an orange wine for those who are new to this style of wine and want to explore.

L’Hurluberlu. St. Nicolas de Bourgueil. Sebastien David. 2019

Byodynamically produced Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley north of Chinon.This is a pure expression of Cabernet Franc with bags of cherry and red berry fruit. It is delicately floral but without that green edge that Loire Cabernet Franc can sometimes have. It is fresh, juicy, exceptionally fruity and very drinkable. Chill it down in the fridge for an hour or so and it would be perfect for drinking in the garden when the warmer weather arrives.

Tempranillo. Rioja. Bodegas Moraza. 2019

This is Rioja for those that want the purity of the fruit and not the use of oak. A wild fermentation in concrete it is unfixed and un filtered to retain purity of flavour. Fresh and vibrant, a really drinkable wine like so many at this tasting have been. It gets better and better as it opens out and breathes a little in the glass and develops an ethereal quality more usually associated with Pinot Noir.

Masieri Rosso. La Biancara. Angiolino Maule. 2019.

A blend of Merlot and Tai Rosso from the Gambellara region of Northeastern Italy. A minimum intervention wine with some lovely sweet, plummy fruit, a touch of spice, lovely texture and soft tannins.

RAW Wine Fair

The RAW Wine Fair returned to London earlier this month for a two day event featuring over 160 producers of organic or biodynamic wines. These are minimum intervention wines which are truly authentic and have a real sense of place. Speakers Corner featured a number of talks and tastings led by the producers themselves or industry experts. For a break from the hustle and bustle of the main tasting room I was lucky to attend Understanding Bubbles, a tasting of six sparkling wines led by Patrick Schmitt MW. It was a lovely opportunity to compare such very different wines and the quality was very high indeed.

Ancre Hill. Triomphe. Pet Nat. Ancre Hill is a family owned vineyard in Monmouthshire, South Wales. Vines were first plated here in 2006 and they now have 12 hectares.The estate has been fully biodynamic since 2010 and was given certification in 2014. Triomphe is a variety which is able to ripen even in cool summers so may well be thought to be highly suited to the climate in the UK. A wild ferment and without fining or filtration this wine is ruby red in appearance with a slight haze and an intense nose of red fruits. I have never been a fan of red sparking wines finding them too aggressive on the palate but this is rather pleasant, the lower pressure in the bottles gives a wine which is gently sparkling on the palate and much the better for it.

Cantina Furlani. Surlie. Alpino. Alto Adige. 2017. From vineyards at a height of 700m close to the city of Trento in Northern Italy. Produced with a wild ferment, unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulphites. Lovely aroma of pear and green apple, barely sparking with touch of sweetness. This is a very drinkable wine and I wish I had another glass.

Champagne. Franck Pascal. Fluence. 2012. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier it has the faintest of pink tinge when held to the light. It’s toasty, lemony and nutty with a great finish. This is really excellent stuff, a standout wine.

Agricola Alessandra Divella. Blanc des Blancs. Franciacorta. 2015. Made from 100% Chardonnay and vinified in old oak this is a very fine, elegant wine. It’s toasty and with nice body and lovely texture. Serious stuff. Excellent.

Meinklang. Foam White. Burgenland. Austria. 2017. An orange pet nat made from Pinot Gris, unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulphites. Orange in appearance and the nose is quite aromatic, there are stone fruits, candied peel and a touch of residual sweetness. For me this is a wine that is probably best enjoyed along with some food.

Swik Wines. The Beav. 2018. A natural pet nat from the Pacific Northwest of the United States. A rather bonkers mix of 50% Cinsault, 40% Gewurtztraminer and 10% Riesling. Macerated on skins for two weeks and a wild ferment in stainless steel without any fining or filtration has produced a wine which is a light orange, salmon colour with a slight haze. A really interesting wine and I mean that in good way. Floral, perfumed and with nice texture, this is a wine that invites you to have another glass because it is just a little bit different and there is nothing wrong with that.

Katz Orange

Katz Orange is a restaurant in central Berlin which is well worth a visit, not only for the quality of the cooking but also for a really good wine list.

Located in a former brewery, built in 1893, and set back from the road in a courtyard, the setting is fantastic. In warm weather there are tables arranged outside, covered by large parasols, which, if the weather permits, should be your choice of seating. The interior of the restaurant is arranged over two floors and is warm and inviting, creating a good atmosphere for a relaxed evening. So dining either inside or outside it’s a win win!

The menu is short and well focused, offering seven or so choices for both appetisers and mains. There are house specialities such as Duroc pork, which has been cooked for 12 hours at low temperature to create a wonderfully tender and flavoursome piece of meat. This is only available for two to share and my photograph doesn’t do it justice, it was superb.

Heirloom tomatoes with date vinegar, pine nuts and croutons

Ceviche of Rottstock Sea Trout with melon and dill

Duroc pork with pickled cauliflower, red and fried onions.

Portions are generous and we didn’t feel that dessert was necessary but there is an interesting choice for those that want it including white chocolate cheesecake and cherry clafoutis.

The wine list here is very good and this always makes choosing difficult but staff are very helpful and more than willing to spend time discussing the possible options. In the end we chose Testalonga El Bandito Skin Contact Orange Wine 2016 from South Africa. Made from Chenin Blanc grapes which the juice has a shortish period of  contact with the skins during vinification to produce a wine of real character. Stone fruits and some savoury spice abound in a wine that is dry and well balanced.

 

Katz Orange, Bergstraße 22, 10115, Berlin.

Open daily but evenings only from 6pm

Website is here

Nordbahnof (S-bahn S1, S2, S25, S26) or Rosenthaler Platz (U-Bahn U8) are the closest public transport train lines.