Tag: Porto

Port in Porto

Porto is the second largest city in Portugal but has a population of less than a quarter of a million so it manages to have the feel of something much smaller than expected. It sits on the northern bank of the Douro river, directly opposite the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. To many they are as one and both are closely identified with the city’s most famous export, port.

Some port facts

  • Port can be produced in only one region – Portugal’s Douro Valley.
  • Yield are low in the Douro due to the hot climate and poor soils.
  • Over 100 different grape varieties can be used to make port but only five are mainly used; Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touring Nacional.
  • The grapes are traditionally trodden by foot in large tanks called lagars.
  • Port was made in the Douro valley but was taken to Porto where it was much cooler and there was less chance of the wine spoiling.
  • Port used to be transported to Porto by boat called a Rabelo as it was much quicker than by road
  • Up to 1986 it was compulsory to take port to Porto to mature. It can now be done in the Douro as modern technology has meant that temperatures can be accurately controlled.

Tasting port

In Porto, close to the river, is Portologia (Rua de Sao Joao 28-30). This is a good place to start as there are many different tastings available and so can give you a flavour of the different styles of port available. It is an interesting establishment as it has some of the smaller port producers available that you do not usually come across in the UK. If you taste something and like it you can buy a bottle to take away with you.

Crossing the river into Vila Nova de Gaia there a several options available for visiting a port house and taking in a tour. Taylors is one of the oldest port houses dating back some 325 years. Tours here are self guided following a trail and supported by an audio commentary which is available in several languages. Reservations are not necessary but you can book ahead if you wish, the cellars are open from 10.00 to 18.00 every day. Taylors cellars are at the top of the hill so be prepared. The views from here though are pretty spectacular.

The tour includes a tasting of two wines; Chip Dry White Port and Late Bottled Vintage.

Taylors also has a restaurant, Barão Fladgate, which is excellent for lunch following your visit but is also open in the evening. I would recommend making a reservation here, especially if you want one of the tables outside which have superb city views. Both food and service are excellent and it is the perfect end to a visit.

There are of course plenty of other options to visit a port house including;

If you want to sample port but are not bothered about a guided tour there are number of options available. Many of these are on, or close to, the waterfront (Avenida Diogo Leite) and therefore require little walking from the bridge.

  • Ramos Pinto – has a huge tasting room with comfy sofas. Very welcome at the end of a busy day.
  • Quinta do Noval – has no cellars in the city. All port is matured in the Douro valley
  • Sandemans

The biggest challenge is choosing what to include. As port is a fortified wine there is only so much that you can taste in one day without feeling rather worse for wear!

The Douro River Valley

The Douro river rises in Spain and flows some 900km before it reaches the Atlantic Ocean just west of the Portuguese city of Porto. For much of its journey through Portugal it is a quiet and lonely river with very few centres of habitation. Its banks are steep and terraced and are covered with vines that will produce grapes for the regions famous port wines. Wine and the Douro river are closely entwined.The wine growing region is large and extends from 70 Km east of Porto to almost the Spanish border. Wine is very important here and you can not visit the Douro valley without experiencing  the wines that are made here.

Travelling in the Douro Valley provides you with a number of options. While driving gives you the greatest flexibility, especially in terms of winery visits, it is not perhaps the best option for some. Many of the roads are winding and narrow with some steep ascents and descents. For the driver this means missing much of the scenery along the way as driving requires a good deal of concentration. It is possible to take a day river cruise from Porto and see the valley from the relative comfort of a riverboat however this option doesn’t really give you any time to actually explore much of the region. indeed river cruises are very popular and it is possible to spend several days making the journey up and down river. These are perhaps not the cheapest way to see the area and of course not really suitable for those with only a couple of days to spare.

If you do have a couple of days available perhaps the best option is a combination of train and a short half day river cruise. The Linha do Douro runs from the city of Porto to the town of Pocinho close to the border with Spain and the complete journey takes just short of three and a half hours. There its not much to see in Pocinho so a better option is to leave the train at the small town of Pinhao, a journey of two and a quarter hours, which is really at the heart of grape growing in the region.

Trains leave Porto Campanha every two hors or so. The first half of the journey is unremarkable, travelling through residential/industrial areas and farm land. After the town of Peso da Régua the line follows the river and for the next ninety minutes you are treated to what must be the best, and most scenic, rail journey in Portugal. Make sure you sit on the right hand side of the train for the best views.

The railway station at Pinhao is notable for the 24 blue tiled panels on its walls. Dating back to 1937 and depicting life in the Duoro valley they make this one of the prettiest railway stations that you are likely to visit.

Pinhao is a small town which is centred firmly around grape growing and is an ideal base for exploring the region. There are a number of opportunities for tasting port within walking distance and taxis are available at the railway station if you want to venture further afield. It is worth remembering that Pinhao is only small and it does not have a large number of hotels so it is best to book accommodation before arriving, especially in the summer months.

From Pinhao it is possible to take a river cruise further up river.

Pinhao

There are a number of options but we chose the cruise up to the town of Tua, the round trip takes about two hours and gives probably covers the most scenic part of the valley.

It is a nice contrast to the views from the train as you can appreciate the steepness of the valley and get a better understanding of the importance of the river to the local inhabitants. The boat turns around by the famous Grahams wine estate, Quinta dos Malvedos.

It can be very hot in the Douro in high summer and while the boat does offer some shade it is best to have plenty of sun lotion water and a hat to hand so that you can enjoy the cruise.