Tag: Portugal

48 Hours in Lisbon

Lisbon is an ideal location for a weekend city break and is only a short flight from the UK. The airport is located only short distance from the city so transfers by metro or taxi are relatively quick and straightforward. There is a lot to see and do in the city so here are some suggestions for a couple of days in the city.

Take Tram 28

Running from Praca Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique Tram 28 has become a top tourist attraction. The forty or so minute journey delivers some of the best of Lisbon though you will need to be lucky to see it in comfort. It is so popular that it has become crowded for most of the day with many passengers standing making it difficult to see much at all at times. For the best chance get there early to increase your chance of getting a seat for what is one of the best shows in town.

Take a Walking Tour

I am a great fan of walking tours and always try to take one in as soon after arrival as possible. Sandemans offer a free three hour walking tour in either English or Spanish which gives an excellent introduction to the city and its history. tours start form 10am by the statue at Praica Luis de Camoes and finishes at Praca do Comercio. Although free it is always best to prebook a place via their website.

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Built by the Moors and dating from the mid eleventh century it has undergone significant renovations over the years to create the castle you see today but it is everything you would expect. Built on one of Lisbon’s hills it offers great views of the city and beyond. Open seven days aweek, there is a 10 Euro admission charge but once inside there is plenty to see and a number of free tours are available.

Walk the Streets of Alfama

The district of Alfama lies between the castle and the river and is one of the oldest parts of the city. Its steep, narrow, cobbled streets are flanked by small houses and shops. Once the poorest area of Lisbon it is now undergoing some development but this hasn’t as yet changed it too much. It is easy to get lost here as you wander around but that is part of the experience and don’t let that put you off, someone will always point you in the right direction. If you prefer there are walking tours of Alfama, well worth a small charge for the expert guiding you receive. There are great views of the city from Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

Sample Fado Music

Fado originated in Alfama in the early part of the nineteenth century and can now be enjoyed in many parts of the country. Fado is sad, melancholic and bittersweet but is also so much more than that. There are a number of restaurants and clubs that offer dinner complete with a Fado performance most evenings in Alfama. The Museu do Fado on Largo do Chafariz de Dentro is worth a visit if you want to delve into the genre further.

Praco do Comercio

A huge plaza which leads down to the river Tejo. Built following the earthquake of 1755 it is a grand space that is closely related to the history of the city and is a great place to sit at the base of the statue of Dom Jose and take a breather from sight seeing. It is also the meeting place for some of the walking tours of the city.

Arco de Rua Augusta

Also known as Arco da Vitoria it is a triumphal arch with great views of the Price do Comercio, the river and city. Whatsmore it doesn’t attract the queues often seen at the nearby Elevador de Santa Justa and the views are excellent. An elevator followed by a narrow stone staircase leads to the viewing platform on the roof. When we were there there were only two other visitors. If you want a view of the city without a wait this is for you.

Torre de Belem

Located at the mouth of the river Tejo and just a short bus/tram ride from the city centre the tower has guarded the approach to the city since 1515. It is an impressive sight and a popular tourist attraction. You can climb the tower but be prepared to wait as queues are often long.

Padrao des Descobrimentos

Overlooking the Tejo and just a short walk from the tower is the Padrao des Descobrimentos. Unveiled in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator it is a most amazing sculpture full of all the significant Portugese who played a role in the age of discovery.

Museu Coleccao Berardo

This is a wonderful museum of modern art with all the big players represented. Situated in Belem close to the other attractions it is an oasis of clam and tranquility. As visitors queue for the tower or jostle to get that perfect photo for instagram the museum is quiet by comparison. if you like modern art you’ll love this place.

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Built in 1501 to celebrate the opening of a sea route to India by Vasco de Gama the monastery is a real jewel in Lisbon’s crown. It can get very busy at times so it may be best to visit as it opens at 10am. A visit to the Belem would not be complete without a visit here. There is a charge for entry to the cloister but it is free on the first Sunday of the month. Entrance to the church is free at all times.

Eat Custard Tarts

To be honest you can’t eat enough of these and they are available at Pastelarias all over the city. If you want to try the original then visit Casa Pasteis de Belem which is just a few short steps away from the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. This is where they were first made in the early part of the nineteenth century and the recipe hasn’t changed since. They are best served warm with just the lightest sprinkling of icing sugar but eat them anyway you like, you won’t be disappointed. There is also a cafe here which can seat up to 400.

Travel on a Funicular Railway

Lisbon is built on seven hills and some of them are steep and punishing to climb. Lisbon has three funicular railways

Ascensor da Glória. This connects Praça dos Restauradores with the Bairro Alto district. You will pass some excellent street art are as you ascend/descend the hill.

Ascensor da Bica. This connects Rua de São Paulo and Largo do Calhariz and ascends one of Lisbon’s steepest hills. It’s popular as it offers some good photo opportunities.

Ascensor do Lavra. This is the oldest of the funiculars in the city. It can be the quietest of them so may well be for you if you don’t fancy a queue at busy times.

Eat and Drink in the Bairro Alto

If you walk the narrow, steep streets of the Bairro Alto during the day you could be forgiven for thinking that not much is going on in this district. Return in the evening and you will be amazed by the transformation. This is the place to be for restaurants, bars and clubs and every visitor should try the area at least once during their visit to the city. There are numerous restaurants here but we particularly enjoyed Primeiro de Maio and Bota Alta, both on Rua Atalaia, serving local, traditional dishes at very reasonable prices. Two excellent wines bars here are BA Wine Bar (107 Rua Da Rosa) and Garrafeira Alfaia (125 Rua do Diaro de Noticias). Both serve food and have really helpful staff if you are unsure which Portugese wines to try. They are small so you may need to reserve a table but both do walk ins.

Wines of Southern Portugal

The Algarve is Portugals most southerly wine region and is perhaps better known for its beaches, coastal scenery and golf courses than its wine. Production is tiny compared with regions such as the Duoro and Alentejo and you could easily spend time here and not see a vineyard but the wines are everywhere in restaurants and bars. There are four DOC’s (Deominação de Origem Contolada) which are Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa and Tavira.

Al-Ria Reserva 2016. Algarve. Casa Santos Lima has most of its vineyards north of Lisbon but does have some holdings in the Algarve located near the town of Tavira. This wine is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Fermented in small stainless steel vats it then spent twelve months in French and American oak. The wine has great concentration of colour. There is masses of black fruits with a hint of mint and a nice touch of vanilla. It is rich, smooth and nicely balanced with a lingering spicey blackcurrant finish.

João Clara. Negramole. 2015. Algarve. Negramole was created over 200 years ago by crossing Pinot noir and Grenache and is is the principal grape variety in Madeira. It is a high yielding variety and there are some notable plantings in the Algarve. Quinta João Clara is located in Alcantarilha, close to the town of Silves. This is a rich wine with red berry fruits, fig and dried fruits. There is a touch of sweetness an d a delicate savoury finish

Villa Alvor Tinto. 2018. Algarve. A blend of Touring Nacional, Syrah, Aragonês (Tinta Roriz/Tempranillo) and Trincadeira. Medium bodied with soft plummy fruit and a nice dash of savoury spice. Soft, round and good value for money.

Quinta da Penina. Tinto Reserva. 2016. Algarve. Wines are produced from 22 hectares of vines at the winery near Portimão. This particular wine is a blend of Touring Nacional (55%), Aragonês (30%) and Alicante Bouschet (15%). A big and brooding wine with black fruits, vanilla, caramel and chocolate. Smooth and silky with tannins that are softening. The finish is savoury black fruits.

By contrast the Alentejo is Portugals second largest wine producing region after the Duoro with eight sub region classifications for its wine. Wines can be labelled as Alentejo DOC or Alentejano VR. The DOC wines are subject to stricter rules for their production whereas for the Alentejano classification winemakers have more freedom, especially in the grape varieties they may use. In general red wines of the region are blends which are round and soft which can be drunk young. Often described as easy drinking this does them no disservice at all, it is often exactly what you want in a wine.

Monte de Ravasqueira. Mocho Galego Signature. 2017. Alentejano. Monte de Ravasqueira is located about an hour from Lisbon where they make a large range of wines under a variety of labels. This wine is named after a small owl which is commonly found in the region. It is a blend of Aragonês, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet which has spent six months in new American oak. The wine has masses of soft black fruits with a nice touch of vanilla from the oak. it is smooth and slightly peppery with a nice balance and a touch of mint on the finish.

Monte de Ravasqueira. Guarda Rios. 2018. Alentejano. Named after the Kingfisher this wine is a blend of Aragonês, Syrah, and Alicante Bouschet. A real fruit driven, brooding wine with a nice hint of mint. This is soft and smooth with a super vanilla, plum finish.

Monte de Ravasqueira. Coutada Velha. Signature. 2018. Alentejano. A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Cabernet Sauvignon which has spent eight months in French oak. Black berry fruit, plums, pepper, savoury spice and a nice touch of vanilla from the oak. The palate is full and rich with soft tannins and a nice balance. The finish has a delicate warming spice.

Encostas de Alqueva. Granja Amareleja. 2016. Alentejo. There is lots of smokey black fruits here. The palate is round and silky with plums, spice and vanilla.

Cortes de Cima. Trincadeira. 2015. Alentejano. Fermented for two weeks in stainless steel followed by oak ageing for 8 months with 90% in French and 10% in American oak. Medium bodied with red fruits and a hint of dried herbs and a touch of spice, tannins are soft making this great glass of wine.

Quinta S. José de Peramanca. Pera Grave. 2017. Alentejano. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Aragonês and Alicante Bouschet. Youthful and bursting with rich, opulent fruit. It is perfumed and savoury with a touch of dried fruits. A long, long finish.

A Short Guide to The Algarve

The Algarve is a popular holiday destination, attracting some 4.2 million visitors a year. Nearly a quarter of these are from the UK but it is also a popular destination for visitors from Germany, Spain, Netherlands and France. It is easy to see why with over 300 sunshine days a year. While it can be very hot and dry in the summer its winers are relatively mild compared with those of Northern Europe. This makes The Algarve an all year round destination.

Getting There

Faro airport is the main gateway to the Algarve, handling well over 4 million passengers a year, many of which are in the busy summer months.It handles flights from many low cost airlines such as EasyJet, Ryan Air, Jet 2 and Norweigan. The airport is modern and efficient and deals with the large numbers very well.

Trains also run to The Algarve from the capital Lisbon. They depart from Lisbon Oriente and the journey to Faro takes around three and a half hours. Train travel is relatively cheap in Portugal, especially if booked in advance and you are able to do so up to thirty days before departure. Seat reservations are compulsory on inter city trains. Trains also run from Porto to Faro via Lisbon with two such services a day. The current timetable is available here.

There is also a frequent bus service from Lisbon to Faro some of which are non stop. The journey time is very similar to that of the train. The current timetable is available here.

Getting Around.

Car hire is by far the most popular option with plenty of choice and availability at Faro airport with all major hire companies represented in a complex just across from the terminal. For the keenest prices and choice it is always advisable to book in advance of your arrival. The A22 motorway runs across the Algarve from Lagos in the west all the way into Spain in the east. It has tolls which are charged electronically as you pass beneath sensors located above the carriageway. Hire cars are usually fitted with a tag that records the tolls and payment is then made when you return the car. Although there are other methods of paying this is by far the easiest. Hire companies usually charge a small daily fee for the tag of around one euro. Tolls can add up quite quickly, especially if you use the motorway a lot. The trip from Faro to Lagos is just under 7 Euros. For this reason the A22 is very quiet, especially in off season. Locals much prefer to use the regional roads which don’t incur a charge. As a consequence these roads can be very busy and journey times much longer.

There is a bus which runs from Faro airport into the town. The 16 runs from 5am until 23.45 with buses fairly frequently. The journey time is 20 minutes and the fare 2.5 Euros. The 14 takes a slightly different route, visiting the Forum Algarve, and only runs early morning and once in the evening. The journey time is 30 minutes. It is worth noting that both these services actually run from Faro to the beach and stop at the airport part way. It is possible that services in the early evening can be full with people returning from a day out at the beach by the time they reach the airport. This is obviously more likely to be the case in the busy summer months. Both buses terminate at Faro bus station from where you can catch local services to other towns in the Algarve.

There are taxis available outside arrivals at the airport and the journey into town takes about 10 minutes and costs around 13 Euros. It is also possible to prebook transfers from the airport to several popular algarve destinations with several companies offering this type of service.

The Algarve Regional Railway runs from Vila Real De Santo António in the east to Lagos in the western Algarve. It is often necessary to change trains in Faro. The station at Faro can be somewhat confusing when catching a train as there are no departure boards. Journey times are; Vila Real De Santo António to Faro is roughly an hour, from Faro to Lagos it takes 90 minutes. Trains are roughly hourly in each direction but not all trains run at weekends. Tickets are relatively cheap compared to the UK. There are only two types of ticket, single and return. The cost of a return is double that of a single. Tickets are not available in advance and must be purchased on the day. Not all stations on the line have a ticket office, in this case you simply purchase a ticket from the conductor on the train who come round after every stop. It’s worth noting that the conductor only deals in cash, he does not take card payments. A tourist ticket is available. Called the Tourist Travelcard it can be bought as a two day or three day card. This allows you to use the Algarve line as often as you like but the days of use must be consecutive. A two day card costs 20.90 Euros and the tree day 31.90 Euros. It can only be purchased from a station with a ticket office, they are not available on the train. You may well want to check if it is actually a saving for you. Faro to Tavira is 6.40 Euros return and Faro to Lagos is 14.80 Euros for a return. It is worth checking in advance if the station of your chosen destination is actually close to where you want to go. The station at Albufeira is actually 3 miles from the old town.

Algarve Towns

Faro

The largest town on the Algarve and the gateway to the region with its nearby airport. It is a good base if you intend exploring the region by public transport. The Old Town is excellent for wandering and the marina area is lively and an excellent spot to watch the sunset over the Ria Formosa. You can take trips from here to the islands and to explore the nature reserve. Faro has a good selection of restaurants and bars.

Olhão

A nice contrast to Faro as Olhão is much more of a working fishing town. Not surprisingly it has some excellent seafood restaurants. Had some of the best and sweetest prawns I have ever tasted in a small bistro just back from the waterfront.

Tavira

I like Tavira and have stayed there twice recently. The town itself is charming and delightful with a good selection of restaurants and bars. A short ferry ride takes you to the Ilha de Tavira with its superb beach. You can read a detailed post regarding things to do in and around Tavira here.

Portimão

A popular destination for visitors and the Algarve second largest town. The big attraction here is the beach, Praia da Rocha, and it can get very busy in the summer. Just east of Portimão is Praia da Marhina with its most amazing rock formations. If you are feeling energetic you can take the coastal path from Praia Vale Centianes for some superb coastal scenery.

Lagos

There is something very appealing about Lagos, from its bustling marina to the streets of the old town there is something for everyone here and it is well worth a visit even if only for a day trip. You can take a boat trip from the marina to view the rock formations of the Ponta da Piedade or sign up for the many other water based activities on offer including dolphin watching.

Sagres

If surfing is for you then Sagres and the beaches of the western coast is the place to go. There is however much more here including the Fortaleza de Sagres and the São Vicente lighthouse which stands on the most south westerly tip of Europe.

Silves

If you fancy a break from the coast then the town of Silves is a good option. The recently restored castle dominates the town and gives some excellent views of the surrounding countryside from its walls. There is also a cathedral and it makes the town a nice place to wander.