Reykjavik | Postcards From Here and There

The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is perhaps Icelands premier tourist attraction. It consists of route that will take you to Pingvellir (Thingvellir), Geysir and Gullfoss and makes for an excellent day trip from Reykjavik. You can do a self drive or join one of the many coach tours that leave the capital each day. I chose a tour with Reykjavik Excursions which included a pick up and drop off at my hotel. Tours generally leave around 9am and return late afternoon. For me this is a must do activity while in the country as you see so much in so short a time.

Pingvellir. In an anglicised form it wound be Thingvellir. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site a National Park and the site of the first democratic parliament which was formed here in 930. It is a beautiful, place quiet and peaceful despite all the tourists.

It is also on a tectonic plate boundary. Here the Eurasian plate and North American plate are moving away from each other creating the Mid Atlantic Rift Valley which is where you find the lakes and great fissures which open up as the plates move.

They have created a short path that runs alongside the edge of the North American plate which takes only a short while to complete. It also passes the site of the first parliament which is marked by a flagpole flying the Icelandic flag.

Geysir. The Geyser that named them all is in the Haukadlur geothermal region. Geysir used to erupt and send boiling water up to a height of 80m. Sadly it is now very much dormant and hasn’t erupted since 2014. This could change in the future as the area is geologically very active and earth movements could activate it again. However Strokkur is close by and erupts every 10-15 minutes or so. Reaching a height of 20m it may not be as high as Geysir but it is still very impressive and draws a big crowd.

The whole area around the geysers is geothermically active with pools and lots of vented steam. The wind chill up here was severe, down at minus 12 Celsius, so it was quite a contrast to see so much boiling water. As you walk around the area you can not help but ponder on the awesome forces at work beneath your feet.

There are plenty of refreshment and shopping options here, located just across the road from the geysers. There is also a petrol station and ample parking for coaches and cars.

Gullfoss. Only a short 15 minute drive from Geysir is the spectacular waterfall of Gullfoss.The name translates as golden falls in English and it is from this that itinerary is called The Golden Circle. Nothing really prepares you for the majestic site of the falls, in winter the spectacle is enhanced by the ice and snow. Gullfoss is a double drop waterfall with the Hvitá river cascading down a total of 32m.

There is a choice of walking routes to view the falls. The lower path descends down to the level of the falls by means of a set of stairs. If you don’t fancy the climb back to the top you can take the upper path which has a fantastic panoramic view of the falls.

In 1907 there was an attempt to buy the falls so that hydroelectric power could be generated. The farmer that owned them, Tōmas Tōmasson, replied that “I will not sell my friend.” Much later the falls were leased to investors but the farmers daughter, Sigriour, fought this walking back and forth to Reykjavik to argue her case in court. She worked tirelessly to save the falls and eventually the lease was revoked. There is a memorial to her close to the upper viewing area. To many she is regarded as Icelands first environmentalist

There is a small shop and café here and both are well stocked with refreshments and souvenirs.

The Golden Circle was a wonderful experience and the low temperatures of the day didn’t seem to matter. It’s a great way to see some of the natural beauty of this wonderful country and only a short drive from the capital.

Microbar Reykjavik

The Microbar is located at Vesturgata 2, close to Ingolfstorg Square in central Reykjavik.. Its not the easiest place to find as its set back from the road and is actually located underneath Restaurant Reykjavik. A small doorway, with a rather helpful sign above, leads to a downstairs bar.

There is plenty of seating here and although basic it is comfortable enough. The atmosphere is very laid back with a most impressive choice of music playing during our visit including Nick Cave and Tom Waits Altogether there are 14 beers on tap and much greater choice in bottles and cans. Prices are not cheap but then again no different to most other places in the city. Alcohol is generally expensive in Iceland. Happy moments are between 3 and 7pm where a choice of two beers is available at 1000ISK for half a litre.

They also do a range of merchandise, including t-shirts, if you are looking for a souvenir to take back home.

Segull 67 A brewery in an old fish factory at Siglufjorder in North Iceland. Two beers were on offer in the Happy Moments promotion. Segull 67 Session IPA 4.2%. Pours yellow, hazy with a thin white head. Aromas of orange, pineapple and a hint of banana. The palate is creamy, soapy with orange and pine. Low bitterness and gentle carbonation. Segull 67 Amber Lager 5%. Amber, clear with a light tan head. Aromas of malt, caramel and a hint of pine. Palate is quite full, good carbonation and low bitterness. Malty, yeasty with some floral notes.

Bruggsmiojan Kaldi began brewing in 2006 in Arskogssander on Icelands northern coast. All production is unpasteurised with no added preservatives. Kaldi Black IPA 6%. Black, opaque with the thinnest of tan heads. Gentle carbonation. Palate has malt with a touch of coffee, lemon citrus and a touch of grapefruit. Finish has a slight bitterness.

Gœdingur Tumi Humall IPA 6.5%. Located in Skagafordur in northern Iceland and brewing since 2011. This beer pours yellow with a slight haze and a thin cream head. Aroma is tropical, hoppy, malt and pine. Palate is slightly creamy, nice texture, low bitterness. Lemon citrus is the dominant flavour. Very drinkable.

With only a limited time available it was only a short visit but there is much on offer here to satisfy the craft beer enthusiast.

Things to do in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is the capital and largest city in Iceland with a population of around 120,000. It sits on the southern shore of Faxa Bay and is an excellent destination for a short break or long weekend from the UK.

The main international airport is Keflavik with is 50Km from the capital but is easily reached in 40/50 minutes by a frequent airport coach service. Indeed many travellers use Reykjavik as a stop over destination on flights between Europe and North America.

Compared with many European capitals Reykjavik is not only small but relatively compact which makes it a very walkable city if you want to avoid using public transport. It is also quite low rise, with very few really tall buildings, which gives it a big sky feel. Many of the buildings, especially in the old town, are characterful and colourful. At times you forget you are in a capital city and that’s how it should be, it make sit an excellent place to visit.

Just because its small doesn’t mean that there isn’t a lot to see and do. I spent a full day here and still had much left too see and do that I’m already thinking about another trip back.

Hallgrimskirkja. This iconic Icelandic church is visible for miles around, standing tall in the city. It was designed to resemble volcanic lava flow and took just over 40 years to build. You can take a lift to the top of the tower for stunning views of the city.

Parliament House. The Icelandic parliament is called the Albingi and is the oldest parliament in the world, dating back to 930. Originally held at Thingvellir, some 30 miles east of Reykjavik, it has been housed in this building since 1881.

The Sun Voyager. This sculpture, by Jon Gunnar Arnason, of a Viking ship is located on the waterfront close to the city centre. Its location is perfect set as it is with water and mountains framing its structure. There is some debate as to its true meaning but you cannot deny that it is a stunning piece of work that always has something different to offer as it catches the light at different times of day.

Harpa. Located close to the Sun Voyager, Harpa is a concert hall and conference centre which opened in 2011. Its design is very modern and futuristic and quite a contrast to some of the more traditional buildings in the city. The building catches the sun and shimmers during the day and its exterior is illuminated at night. It is possible to take a tour of the building and there are also cafés and restaurants.

The Settlement Exhibition. A fascinating excavation of a 10th century Viking longhouse discovered in 2001 is combined with modern multimedia displays which explain its construction and life at that time. Its an excellent way to spend an hour.

Reykjavik Museum of Photography. Located on the sixth floor of the City Library this small space plays host to exhibitions of the work of superb photographers. Well worth the very modest entry fee but do check what’s on first.

Have a hot dog. There are numerous outlets around the city selling hot dogs, a favourite snack of the locals. Baejarins Beztu cabins are said to do the best in town. They are very tasty, have them with everything on.

The Old Harbour. The old harbour of Reykjavik is in the process of regeneration and is a lovely place for a stroll. Not only does it afford some fantastic views and photo opportunities there are a growing number of cafés and restaurants. This is also the place to pick up whale watching and sea angling trips. It is also home to the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina, my base for three days.

Whales of Iceland. This consists of 23 man made, life size models of the various species of whale that can be found in Icelandic waters. It is quite remarkable and awe-inspiring to stand beneath, or alongside, some of these magnificent creatures of the ocean. A free audio guide is included with the entry fee and this is interesting and informative and takes you round the exhibition in around 3o minutes but you can pause and spend longer if you choose. The whole place is bathed in soft blue light and there is accompanying whale song. There is also a nice café and gift shop. Whales of Iceland website.

Aurora Reykjavik. This small exhibition gives a full explanation of why we see the Northern Lights and how best to capture them on film. There is also an interesting section detailing the significance of the display to the various cultures found in the Arctic. Best of all is the giant photo display of auroras captured at various Icelandic locations. There photography here is quite stunning and well worth the 30 or so minutes to view them all. A good little museum if you need to learn more about the aurora before you go to hopefully catch a display. Aurora Reykjavik website.

This is by no means a comprehensive list of things to do. I had to make decisions because I only had one free day in the city. You could easily spend 2 or 3 days here.