Tag: Tasmania

Three Capes Track

The Three Capes Track opened at the end of 2015 after some ten years in the making and it has become Australia’s number one hiking experience. Located on Tasmania’s southern coast it takes you across the varied landscapes of Cape Pillar and Cape Huey in a 48km, 4 day experience like no other. Staying in cabins along the way, this was to be our first experience of a multi day walk carrying everything we need with us including wine!

Only 48 walkers can start the track on any given day and you need to book well in advance, especially for walking in the summer months. You can check the booking portal here.

DAY 1

Our day began with a short drive from our overnight accommodation at a rental property in White Beach. We had booked the boat leaving Port Arthur Historic Site at 11.30 and gave ourselves an hour to check in at the walks main office and get ourselves sorted. There are secure lockers of varying size if you need to leave belongings that you don’t need on the walk. This saves having to leave anything valuable in the car which had to be left in the top car park for the duration. Do make sure that you collect your copy of the Encounters on the Edge booklet from the walk office when you check in. Not only is it an excellent souvenir to take home it also is intended to be used at various points along the way. There is a good cafe at the historic site where you can have an early lunch or buy sandwiches and snacks for your first day on the track.

Strangely enough the Three Capes Track begins with a boat cruise. Leaving the jetty at the Historic Site at 11.30 (and again at 2.30 for those wanting a later start) the next hour or so is spent heading out towards Crescent Bay and a view of Tasman Island before turning back and sailing to the drop off point at Denmans Cove. We were escorted by a small pod of common dolphins for part of the trip and it was amazing to see them so close up, how gracefully they move through the water.

Denmans Cove is a small, white sand beach and the track begins from the right side. The walking on the first day is only short at 4km with a gentle climb through eucalyptus woodland to the first nights accommodation at Surveyors Cabin. The cabins are amazing, designed to have minimum environmental impact, they are warm and comfortable. The kitchen and social area has cooking hobs and plenty of pots, pans . There are even USB charging points and a library of local information books and guides.

The sleeping cabins consist of bunk beds with very comfortable mattresses. There is no lighting here so a head torch is a very useful piece of equipment to have with you.

DAY 2

The second day is an 11km with an estimated time of around four and a half hours. in reality it will be longer than this as you stop for photographs, snacks and the Encounters. At points along the route there are installations, usually some form of seat, whose name relates to an information piece in the Encounters on the Edge booklet. These are incredibly informative either about history, geology, customs, animal life and plant life. On the first day there were only two Encounters but day 2 has ten and we made sure we experienced everyone. I was genuinely surprised at the number of fellow walkers who just passed right on by as they missed out on so much. We walked as group of eight and took it in turns to read the information aloud. We were occasionally joined by a pair of walkers who stopped for a few moments to listen and thanking us kindly as they then continued with their day.

The day begins with a steady climb to Arthurs Peak. The paths are good with a combination of boardwalk over the more fragile areas, gravel paths and stone steps. From the viewpoint at the top you can look across to Cape Raoul in the distance before continuing across the cliff top and then heading down to Ellarwey Valley, an open stretch of coastal heathland. The walking here is easy with a long stretches of boardwalk and gravel paths. Eventually you return to eucalyptus woodland as you complete your walk to Munro Cabin where you spend your second night.

DAY 3

A 19km walk awaits you on the third day along with the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. For many walkers this is the day that the walk truly becomes alive and it certainly is a dramatic day. The good news is that you don’t have to carry your heavy backpack as it is a return walk out to Cape Pillar and back. All you need for this is a small daypack for water, lunch, snacks, sunscreen etc.

The longest section of boardwalk crosses Hurricane Heath, hugging the hillside, it stretches out before you for over 2km. This section has safety railings and as we were taking a short breather we were fortunate enough to see an Echidna in the shrub just below the boardwalk. It seemed completely oblivious to our presence and we were able to watch it for a good five minutes before it disappeared from view under the track.

The views of the Dolerite sea cliffs become increasingly spectacular as you head towards The Blade and then on to Cape Pillar with its view across to Tasman Island. It is spectacular and you will be tempted to spend time here just taking in the spectacular scenery around you but eventually you have to head off back to Munro Cabin to collect your backpack and then head out for a short walk of around an hour to arrive at Retakuna Cabin for the final night on the track.

DAY 4

A walk of 14km will take you from Retakuna to the finish of the track at Fortescue Bay. We left the cabins along the boardwalk and were guided by a couple of wallaby’s before they disappeared into the shrub. The day begins with the climb of Mount Fortescue , its the biggest climb of the track with a lot of stone steps to climb. A few stops for breathers along the way certainly helped here! From the summit you head into old temperate rainforest with enormous trees and ferns. Its frequently rains here and the trees and forest floor are carpeted with lush, green moss. Its like waking through a scene from Lord of the Rings!

The final day does have a deadline as you have to catch a bus back from Fortescue Bay to Port Arthur Historic Site. You book your place on the bus when you book the walk and you have the option of 2.30 or 4pm. Those on the early bus had to leave Retauna very early to ensure that they arrived on time. You need to allow at least seven hours to complete the track, especially if you take the extension out to the tip of Cape Huay which involves a lot of stone steps and you are advised to allow two hors for the return back to the junction of the track. To make things a little easier you can leave your pack at the junction before heading off down the first set of steps. From the track junction its a gentle 45 minutes down to end of the track at Fortescue Bay. Its very welcome to take off the backpack on the beach, you may even have time for a swim before getting on the bus for the thirty minute trip back to Port Arthur.

What an experience it was. We walked the track in early February and had good weather, mostly dry if a little cloudy but we were lucky to have clear skies for the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Pillar. The nights were chilly and I was glad I carried something a little warmer with me.

Some tips for walkers

  • Book the early boat from Port Arthur. It gives you plenty of time to appreciate the short walk to Surveyors.
  • If you have never walked with a fully laden backpack do try it out before you start the track.
  • Think carefully about food. You must carry out all wrappers etc as there are no rubbish bins either at the cabins or along the track. The cabins are well equipped but do not have fridges, microwaves or ovens.
  • The Three Capes Track website is a great resource with a very useful packing list and advice about food and where to source it.
  • Allow yourself enough time to read each encounter from the booklet along the way. It really will enhance your experience.
  • Book the later bus back from Fortescue Bay. It gives you the option of a later start in the morning and certainly more time along the way.

Josef Chromy Wines

Although included on the Tamar Valley Wine Route the vineyards and cellar door are actually located in Relbia which is a fifteen minute drive south of Launceston near the airport. They are geared up for visitors with a restaurant, tasting room and gift shop. It can get busy at times but the tasting are well organised and you don’t feel that you are being rushed through, staff are very welcoming and in formative and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit.

The story of Josef Chromy is a fascinating one. Having qualified as a butcher nineteen year old Josef escaped from communist Czechoslovakia in 1950. Finding his way to Austria he was given refugee status and offered relocation to America, Canada, New Zealand or Australia. He chose Australia because he thought it was a land of opportunity and was as far away from communism that he could imagine. Josef settled in Tasmania and worked in factories until he had enough money saved to start his own business in the butchery and meat trade. Having built a hugely successful business Josef invested in the growing new wine industry in Tasmania and was involved in Tamar Ridge amongst others. He launched Josef Chromy Wines in late 2007 and it has grown to become one of the best known producers on the island.

The estate has 61 hectares of vines and grows Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Noir.

NV Tasmanian Cuvee. A blend of Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%) and has spent 18 months on lees. The nose is biscuity and very appealing. Lemon citrus with a touch of red berry, crisp and dry with a lovely biscuity finish. Very drinkable, an excellent aperitif.

NV Sparkling Rose. 100% Pinot Noir. Delicate salmon pink, gentle mousse and elegant red fruits. Dry with a nice strawberry finish.

Riesling 2018. lime with a flinty minerality. Dry with a nice texture.

Pinot Gris 2019. The nose is aromatic, peachy, apricot and a hint of lime. Palate has lovely texture with stone fruit and gentle peach on the finish. Very nice.

Chardonnay 2018. Barrel fermented with one third new and the remainder a mixture of one and two years old. Some wild fermentation. The wine spent twelve months in oak before bottling. The nose is very appealing with stone fruit and almond. The palate has layers of flavour with tropical fruits, apricot, lovely balance and a nice nutty biscuity finish.

Zdar Chardonnay 2012. Hand picked fruit is pressed directly into barrel with no fining or settling. One third of the barriques are new French oak with the remainder a mixture of one and two years old. Following fermentation the wine spends twelve months in oak before bottling where it ages further before release. The wine is only made in the best vintages. The nose is lemon citrus along with biscuity vanilla. The palate has complexity and a creamy texture. The finish has great length. Excellent stuff.

Rose 2019. Pinot Noir juice in contact with skins for 4 hours to produce a delicate pale pink colour. There is lots of strawberry fruit here with some elegant floral notes. Very drinkable indeed.

Pinot Noir 2018. With 25% whole bunch in the ferment and ageing in French oak of which one third was new and the remainder a mixture of between one and four years. Delightful cherry and dried herbs on the nose. The palate has good structure with a gently savoury spice supporting the cherry fruit. Very nice indeed.

Pinot Noir 2013. What a delightful wine this is. The nose is complex with cherry, mushroom and toasty spice. Palate is complex, ethereal, cherry, savoury and a nice gentle spicy finish.

Botrytis Riesling 2017. Orange citrus with candied peel and melon. Lovely balance and texture. Very good and a great end to an excellent flight of wines.

Launceston

We were lucky to have a couple of days in Launceston as part of our recent trip to Tasmania. Launceston is very much in the shadow of the state capital Hobart but it is well worth a visit as it retains much of the old world charm often lacking in cities today. Blessed with some well preserved Victorian architecture and some rather nice parks it sits at the meeting of the North and South Esk rivers which then become the Tamar which flows north towards the Bass Strait. The South Esk is responsible for Launceston prime geological feature, The Cataract Gorge.

The Cataract Gorge

Only a ten minute drive from the centre of town and you are in a completely different world. It is at the southern end of the South Esk river and is probably Launceston number one tourist attraction. My advice is to get there early, parking should be relatively straight forward in the small car park and the crowds yet to arrive.

There are some stunning walking trails to scenic viewpoints along the gorge which should not be missed and a cable car across the first basin which gives you a stunning view up the gorge itself. The area around the basin has been developed into attractive parkland and gardens and there is even a swimming pool which is very popular with families. The cafe serves excellent coffee and snacks if you are in need of refreshment after a walk in the area. The gorge is not to be missed.

The Tamar Valley

The Tamar Valley runs north from Launceston for around 60km to the ocean. It is a beautiful area and is well worth a day trip either as part of an organised tour or a self drive. For many the Tamar Valley is renown for its cool climate wines, particularly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along with some rather fine sparkling wines made in the traditional method. I have written about the Tamar Valley Wine Route here. The riverside road through Gravelly Beach is a beautiful drive with plenty of opportunities to stop and appreciate the views. There are fruit farms in the valley where you can pick your own. Hillwood Berries is on the eastern side of the river and it also has a cafe for refreshments.

James Boag Brewery

James Boag have been brewing beer in Launceston for over a century and the beers are much loved in the city and Tasmania in general. You can undertake a guided tour of the brewery which ends with a tasting of the beers made. Tours run seven days a week at 11am, 1pm and 3pm. The cost is 33AD per person. Numbers are limited on each tour so it is best to book ahead as it is very popular. You can access the webpage for booking here.

Festivale

If you are lucky enough to be in Launceston on the first weekend in February you are in for a real treat because this is when Festivale is held in City Park. It takes place over three days and showcases the best of Tasmanian food, drink and entertainment. Thousands attend every year and is an important date in the local calendar. The atmosphere is relaxed, friendly and welcoming. There are so many food stalls its hard to choose so its best to share if you can and graze throughout the afternoon/evening. Once you’ve decided what to eat there’s then what to drink with it from the amazing range of beers, wines, ciders and soft drinks on offer. Prices are reasonable making the event good value for money. There are a number of stages offering entertainment from stand up comedy to indie bands on the main stage. I can’t praise this event enough, it was a fantastic way to spend a warm Friday evening.