Entering the new year we had no plans to go anywhere until a trip to Portugal in early March but you know what they say about plans. A great deal with Iceland Air saw us heading to Iceland for a short four day break at the end of January. What a trip it was, a huge fall of snow the day before we arrived made a true winter wonderland. Cold with clear blue sky by day and the right atmospheric conditions to see the northern lights at night. Iceland is a magical place and re have tentative plans to return in the summer months and drive a circuit of the country.
We had two trips to Portugal in 2019, the first in March saw some pleasantly warm days which we used to good effect to explore parts of the Algarve by train. The result of dipping out toes into the region in spring was that we booked a much longer trip for November, renting an apartment through Airbnb for a very favourable out of season rate. The short November days were sunny and pleasantly warm and this time, with the help of a hire care, were able to really explore the region. At the end of our stay we took the train from Faro to Lisbon for a few days and had a great time exploring the city but the weather was rather changeable.
A return to Berlin in the late spring had been much anticipated and the city did not disappoint. Having done the main touristy the previous autumn this trip allowed us time to explore the neighbourhoods of Friedrichshain and Kreutzberg. We are real fans of walking tours and an excellent tour of the street art of Berlin was one of the highlights of the trip.
The wedding of friends in Provence in early July gave us the opportunity for a slow meander across southern France on our way there. Flying into Toulouse we enjoyed the medieval city of Carcassonne and the wine growing regions of the Languedoc. A visit and tasting at Mas de Daumas Gassac was probably the highlight here. Provence itself was very hot but a very enjoyable weekend of celebrations was had by all. As with the Algarve a trip to the sights of Provence is probably best enjoyed out of season and we plan to return as soon as we can.
Finally a trip to Krakow in early September and what an amazing city it was and so cheap compared to many cities in Europe. There is so much to do in the area but visits to the salt mines at Wieliczka and the former concentration camp at Auschwitz should be at the top of any must do list for visitors.
As we begin 2020 we’re finalising plans for a return trip to Australia so there is lots more to come.
The Algarve is a popular holiday destination, attracting some 4.2 million visitors a year. Nearly a quarter of these are from the UK but it is also a popular destination for visitors from Germany, Spain, Netherlands and France. It is easy to see why with over 300 sunshine days a year. While it can be very hot and dry in the summer its winers are relatively mild compared with those of Northern Europe. This makes The Algarve an all year round destination.
Getting There
Faro airport is the main gateway to the Algarve, handling well over 4 million passengers a year, many of which are in the busy summer months.It handles flights from many low cost airlines such as EasyJet, Ryan Air, Jet 2 and Norweigan. The airport is modern and efficient and deals with the large numbers very well.
Trains also run to The Algarve from the capital Lisbon. They depart from Lisbon Oriente and the journey to Faro takes around three and a half hours. Train travel is relatively cheap in Portugal, especially if booked in advance and you are able to do so up to thirty days before departure. Seat reservations are compulsory on inter city trains. Trains also run from Porto to Faro via Lisbon with two such services a day. The current timetable is available here.
There is also a frequent bus service from Lisbon to Faro some of which are non stop. The journey time is very similar to that of the train. The current timetable is available here.
Getting Around.
Car hire is by far the most popular option with plenty of choice and availability at Faro airport with all major hire companies represented in a complex just across from the terminal. For the keenest prices and choice it is always advisable to book in advance of your arrival. The A22 motorway runs across the Algarve from Lagos in the west all the way into Spain in the east. It has tolls which are charged electronically as you pass beneath sensors located above the carriageway. Hire cars are usually fitted with a tag that records the tolls and payment is then made when you return the car. Although there are other methods of paying this is by far the easiest. Hire companies usually charge a small daily fee for the tag of around one euro. Tolls can add up quite quickly, especially if you use the motorway a lot. The trip from Faro to Lagos is just under 7 Euros. For this reason the A22 is very quiet, especially in off season. Locals much prefer to use the regional roads which don’t incur a charge. As a consequence these roads can be very busy and journey times much longer.
There is a bus which runs from Faro airport into the town. The 16 runs from 5am until 23.45 with buses fairly frequently. The journey time is 20 minutes and the fare 2.5 Euros. The 14 takes a slightly different route, visiting the Forum Algarve, and only runs early morning and once in the evening. The journey time is 30 minutes. It is worth noting that both these services actually run from Faro to the beach and stop at the airport part way. It is possible that services in the early evening can be full with people returning from a day out at the beach by the time they reach the airport. This is obviously more likely to be the case in the busy summer months. Both buses terminate at Faro bus station from where you can catch local services to other towns in the Algarve.
There are taxis available outside arrivals at the airport and the journey into town takes about 10 minutes and costs around 13 Euros. It is also possible to prebook transfers from the airport to several popular algarve destinations with several companies offering this type of service.
The Algarve Regional Railway runs from Vila Real De Santo António in the east to Lagos in the western Algarve. It is often necessary to change trains in Faro. The station at Faro can be somewhat confusing when catching a train as there are no departure boards. Journey times are; Vila Real De Santo António to Faro is roughly an hour, from Faro to Lagos it takes 90 minutes. Trains are roughly hourly in each direction but not all trains run at weekends. Tickets are relatively cheap compared to the UK. There are only two types of ticket, single and return. The cost of a return is double that of a single. Tickets are not available in advance and must be purchased on the day. Not all stations on the line have a ticket office, in this case you simply purchase a ticket from the conductor on the train who come round after every stop. It’s worth noting that the conductor only deals in cash, he does not take card payments. A tourist ticket is available. Called the Tourist Travelcard it can be bought as a two day or three day card. This allows you to use the Algarve line as often as you like but the days of use must be consecutive. A two day card costs 20.90 Euros and the tree day 31.90 Euros. It can only be purchased from a station with a ticket office, they are not available on the train. You may well want to check if it is actually a saving for you. Faro to Tavira is 6.40 Euros return and Faro to Lagos is 14.80 Euros for a return. It is worth checking in advance if the station of your chosen destination is actually close to where you want to go. The station at Albufeira is actually 3 miles from the old town.
Algarve Towns
Faro
The largest town on the Algarve and the gateway to the region with its nearby airport. It is a good base if you intend exploring the region by public transport. The Old Town is excellent for wandering and the marina area is lively and an excellent spot to watch the sunset over the Ria Formosa. You can take trips from here to the islands and to explore the nature reserve. Faro has a good selection of restaurants and bars.
Olhão
A nice contrast to Faro as Olhão is much more of a working fishing town. Not surprisingly it has some excellent seafood restaurants. Had some of the best and sweetest prawns I have ever tasted in a small bistro just back from the waterfront.
Tavira
I like Tavira and have stayed there twice recently. The town itself is charming and delightful with a good selection of restaurants and bars. A short ferry ride takes you to the Ilha de Tavira with its superb beach. You can read a detailed post regarding things to do in and around Tavira here.
Portimão
A popular destination for visitors and the Algarve second largest town. The big attraction here is the beach, Praia da Rocha, and it can get very busy in the summer. Just east of Portimão is Praia da Marhina with its most amazing rock formations. If you are feeling energetic you can take the coastal path from Praia Vale Centianes for some superb coastal scenery.
Lagos
There is something very appealing about Lagos, from its bustling marina to the streets of the old town there is something for everyone here and it is well worth a visit even if only for a day trip. You can take a boat trip from the marina to view the rock formations of the Ponta da Piedade or sign up for the many other water based activities on offer including dolphin watching.
Sagres
If surfing is for you then Sagres and the beaches of the western coast is the place to go. There is however much more here including the Fortaleza de Sagres and the São Vicente lighthouse which stands on the most south westerly tip of Europe.
Silves
If you fancy a break from the coast then the town of Silves is a good option. The recently restored castle dominates the town and gives some excellent views of the surrounding countryside from its walls. There is also a cathedral and it makes the town a nice place to wander.
It’s hard to beat a good coastal walk and the walk from Praia Vale Centianes to Praia de Marinha is right up there with one of the best we have ever done. In Portuguese it is known as Percurso dos Sete Vales Suspendos, route of the seven suspended valleys, and it is one of the most popular hiking trails in The Algarve. It is a linear walk of around 5.5Km but as most people do the walk in both directions to return to their vehicles it makes a total of 11Km or just a little under seven miles. It is graded as medium difficulty with most of the trail being on good easily identified paths but with some steep ascents and descents along with some rough terrain in places. The total walk should take around six hours, allowing for plenty of opportunities to taken photographs and admire the stunning scenery and views.
We began the walk at Praia Vale Centianes which is to be found around nine miles (14Km) east of the popular Algarve town of Portimão. There is a small, free car park here which had plenty of availability for our visit in November but which I expect fills up quickly in the busy summer months. There is also a small cafe and toilets if you are in need of a shot of coffee before beginning the long climb up a wooden staircase to the top of the cliff and the beginning of the walk.
This stretch of coastline consists of limestone which has been eroded and weathered over millennia to produce indented bays along with features such as sea stacks, arches, caves and sink holes. The processes are in action still today and it is estimated that between 2mm and 2m of land are lost to the sea each year, most off this occurs in the winter when the action of the sea is at its greatest coupled with the increased rainfall. The effect of this is dramatic and spectacular. The rock formations just get better and better as you get nearer to Praia de Marinha. It is for this reason in my opinion why you should always do the walk in this direction.
Two thirds in to the walk you arrive at Praia de Benagil, there is a cafe here and, if you are prepared to walk a little further away from the trail, a restaurant. Plenty of opportunity to take on refreshment before the final, and in my view the most dramatic, section to Praia de Marinha. As you complete the walk the views are stunning, just west of the beach are the most amazing rock formations that make the whole walk so worthwhile.
There are a couple of refreshment trucks at Praia de Marinha but not much else, other than the stunning views. Some perfectly located picnic tables are most welcome and you can sit for a while and take it all in before beginning the walk back to the start.
